After reading the Tsarina description from Ormonde Jayne website I clearly had in my mind that this is a big oriental perfume:
“Tsarina captures opulence and passion. It demands fur, leather, brocade, heavy silks in sweeping dresses and fabulous jewels to go with her haughty heritage .To call it a floral oriental is to misunderstand its rich complexity, it is more baroque. The perfume is profund, blending leather notes, rich Madagascan vanilla, amber and orris butter. This is a powerhouse perfume, ravishing and regal, distinctive and synonymous with the glamorous world of luxe”. This fragrance is part of the collection “Four Corners of the Earth” together with Qi, Montabaco and Nawab of Oudh.
Giving it a try I was expecting to land somewhere in St. Petersburg during wintertime, to perceive the “grandeur” of the Tsarina materialized in a heavy oriental fragrance that could melt the Siberian ice but, instead, I landed in Paris very close to Rue du Cambon no.31 during springtime.
Tsarina is not opulent, nor powerhouse perfume but a soft and very elegant classy fragrance centered on iris-leather, actually suede duo having rather an intellectual appearance than a passionate nature. It is a cold fragrance, typical for many iris perfumes but this coldness starts to develop right from the first sparkling citric and green top notes giving an aldehyde like vibe to Tsarina and enhancing the iris coldness. During the first 30 minutes Tsarina can be easily tagged as a green springtime fragrance with a freesia accord.
I can easily imagine Kate Middleton or Grace Kelly wearing Tsarina rather than Catherine the Great or Alexandra Romanov. When wearing it you have to put on your pearl necklace , suede gloves and powder your nose .
After the first 30 minutes of spring the soft velvety iris suede fully appears and maintains its softness during entire perfume life of 10-12 hours on my skin. There is also a light musk shadow in the background that gives the impression of a clean suede perfume.
It is a scent that can be easily worn by women during business meetings or official meetings, everywhere when elegance but also some distance is needed.
Tsarina left me the feeling that is a relative of Chanel’s Cuir de Russie having some similarities like the slight aldehydic burst in the top notes and the powdery iris suede accord reminding me of Cuir de Russie drydown but Tsarina is much more feminine, I can easily say that this fragrance is one of the most feminine leather/suede fragrances I tried. The evolution on skin does not surprise much, after the first hour it has a linear evolution having a long life but slowly evolving into a skin scent.
If you are looking for an elegant, feminine suede floral scent with iris, Tsarina really deserves a try.
Tsarina is part of the Ormonde Jayne’s “Four Corners of the Earth“ collection 2012
Perfumer: Geza Schoen
Notes: mandarine, bergamot, coriander,cassis, hedione, freesia, jasmine sambac, iris, suede, sandalwood, cedar, vanilla bean base, labdanum, musk