Perfumers have been trying to create their take on scentless objects for a while. These days you can get perfume which lets you smell like a certain university, your own DNA and now silver and gold.
Saskia Diez is an independent jeweler from Germany who decided in 2013 to give a scent to gold and silver. The fragrances were developed together with well know nose Geza Schoen (known from his work for Escentric Molecules, Ormonde Jayne, FCUK).
The idea to develop a fragrance for gold and silver is not entirely new – my ‘perfume stash’ includes two fragrances from 1998 – Estee Lauder’s Dazzling Silver and Dazzling Gold. Back then, they presented the expected lighter, modern, fresh, cool, metallic aldehydic floral fragrance for the Silver and warm, darker dusty floral for the Gold.
From a jeweler’s perspective, I was hoping for something different this time. Considering that silver actually is the ‘heavy’metal here – being used for larger more substantial pieces (due to a lower price) and by people who prefer more unusual, larger jewelry. It is also the preferred metal color for the black wearing crowd. Silver does tarnish/gets darker over time, it mellows due to being polished and getting fine scratches from that. Silver gets better looking with age. I would love the fragrance to represent that. Gold on the other hand is used a lot for lighter jewelry pieces. It doesn’t tarnish so stays metallic/shiny for longer. People consider gold most beautiful in the super shiny, brand new look. It is the warmer color and is still considered a lot more valuable than silver even in its very diluted form (9 carat gold only includes 1/3 of the weight in actual gold) and in mass produced, light weight pieces. I would make my ‘gold’ fragrance more mainstream, lighter, bright and shiny to represent that.
For ‘Gold’, they decided to go with juniper, bergamot, davana, cassis, rose, magnolia, freesia, osmanthus, peach, plum, myrrh, sandalwood, cedar, patchouli, labdanum, musk, amber, moss, benzoin and castoreum. For me, this results in a warm fruity floral mix which is not unpleasant, but rather light. I don’t smell anything metallic and no surprises.
‘Silver’ includes bergamot, cardamom, citric, coriander, juniper, ginger, magnolia, jasmine, osmanthus, water lily, iris, violet, benzoin, styrax, labdanum, vetiver, cedar and musk. For me, this is a much better rendition of the theme. I like the spicy cardamom, coriander and iris heart which lasts quite a while on me. There is not much change over time, unfortunately not the dark end I was hoping for, but over all, this fragrance is much more original in my opinion. It has some unusual sparkle and a bit more of a metallic shimmer. I wouldn’t mind using a bit more of this.