The new anatomy of a modern luxury perfume. The House of Emeshel’s ‘Y’

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Emeshel’s ‘Y’ fragrance can be best described as ‘beautifully efficient’. It is an most definitive as well as enchanting modern luxury luxury scent from their Premium collection which boasts an ‘X’ version to compliment the ‘Y’ and a ‘Gold’ version to compliment the Platinum. Emeshel perfumes decided that long before there launch of these superlative ‘smelly’ luxury offerings that they would decisively make a huge dent by remaining unique, highlighting elegance and actively “buck” the the system by adhering to their own rules. When you sample the pure and unbridled-unforced elegance of ‘Y’ you will get the complete gist of what the Premium Collection means.

‘Y’ represents the Male chromosome aspect of their Premium line while naturally ‘X’ has to consist of elements that lean toward female, so they say. When breathing in the the ethereal smoothness of ‘Y’ it can easily be construed as ‘Unisex’ in that it is superbly done with really no absolute pretense for the usual olfactive dichotomy. In other words, as i mentioned earlier it is ‘beautifully efficient’. I feel as though the engineers or engineer behind this perfume really did a marvelous job of overachieving because the exciting part thus far is that no one has been able to accurately pin down what Y wants to be or what it is until now courtesy of Here we dissect ‘things’ while breaking them down to their most minute molecule and then put it back together again and serve it to you fresh!

What they’re saying so far is that it is an ….”Woody scent” which it is is in its own way but they are also saying it masculine. Somehow, a business periodical mentioned Y in a  review as ‘The Art of seduction when a man wants to attract a women”. You know….the typical routine mundane novel stuff when all else fails in appreciating the aura of luxury perfume. They just don’t get it. Fortunately, here, I do or better yet we all do. While woody offerings are indeed present it is kept tame and not allowed to be obtruse as they are in most perfumes. The goal is luxury and elegance and Emeshel from Germany is sure to make good on their intent. The sandalwood in it is extremely soft, so soft it as though it is not even there at some moments. You almost have to remind yourself that it is truly in there. I have myself. What immediately comes to mind in ‘woody-ness’ is Tom Ford’s “Sandle-wonder” Santal Blush where Sandlewood remains king but is really warm, soft and creamy while literally melting in your mouth. Thats how the sandalwood is in is unpretentious.

While woody it is imperative to note that ‘Y’ is an oriental. Pachouli can be detected but is more refined and ‘sandy’ making sure to not impose it’s will. Vetiver, which plays an interesting role also is present. The vetiver is as outstanding as it gets. I’ll say this is a dry and airy vetiver as Y’s seems  most obviously mellow. If you ever Lalique’s cult vetiver-woody fragrance Encre Noire you shall enjoy this from its ability to morph into an exact scent of Angel’s Food cake. With all the notes present and comingling with each other in ‘Y’ you receive a massive dose of scent similar to fresh Angel’s food cake that you may find in a diner covered with a 1950’s  style cake cover that practically vacuum seals the freshness so when the next serving of cake is beckoned it will be fresh and moist as the ozonic notes and citrus (Bergamot-Mandarine) keep ‘Y’ fresh.

Getting back to the luxury again, ‘Y’ uses perfected ratios to absolutely nail this hallowed fragrance into our glamorous psyches. Everything is in proportion and the more sharper elements of certain notes like pachouli, vetiver and even Lavender are effectively utilized while not being neutralized. At this time I would also like to mention the Geranium being used to add to the ‘Angel’s Food Cake effect in ‘Y’. The dryness and cake like feel adds to the scents’ lore.  The use of coriander and pink pepper is brilliant. While pepper can be a little to upbeat and intrusive for a police luxury perfume, coriander arrives as the anointed savior bringing the cooling greeness of herbs as ‘Y’ continues to whip us in a frenzy. like I mentioned before….’beautifully efficient‘. So, as we all know the vetiver is listed along with pachouli, citrus, lavender, pepper, coriander and geranium what notes are left to make this a premium luxury fragrance which Emeshel co-owner, designer and executive partner Martin Harth intends to do? Tonka and Vanilla which in this line-up adds a soft and supple suede dimension to go with the Angel food cake. Everything is strategically assembled so as not to offend but actually attract. ‘Y’ instantly pulls you in from beginning to end. From fresh 0zonic notes at first, angel food cake-like basenotes, spice and herb while the basting of Tonka beans and vanilla complete the final picture. After a serving of ‘Y’ hours later with commanding sillage and longevity ‘Y’ takes another interesting turn in smelling like a moist and light musk to actual cake frosting. Is is smooth, very intoxicating and velvety-smooth which premium luxury fragrances are supposed to do only for some reason ‘Y’ does it a whole lot better. ‘Y’ from it’s inception was posed to be unique and not like anything you have smelled. Until recently, I have not yet smelled something as wholesome, delicious and…’beautifully efficient‘ as the House of Emeshel’s ‘Y’.

‘Y’ does it have to smell this good. Bravo!

EMESHEL Y is available at Essenza Nobile

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