It appears as if Sven Pritzkoleit -SP Parfums-has established himself firmly in the 2017 niche perfumes market with an exciting as well as bewitching array of unique and exquisite perfumes containing some interesting note combinations along with experimentation that should pique the curiosity of the most selective and prude perfume aficionados-and for good reason. Already, SP Parfums has 15 fragrances to its roster with each one having it’s own unique challenge to the wearer due to the boldness, wanton creativity and imminent potency of all their creations. SP Perfums are indeed quite different and strong as hades but if left with one impression after sampling they smell like something that you have never tried before. In fact, SP Parfums can be considered uncharted territory at least because that is the way I see it. For example, some of his perfumes which could be considered too strong to wear have honest dosages of the animalic. Whether it is Civet, Castoreum, or Pyrrrolidin-which is currently defined as an sperm note-or combinations of each, SP Parfums does not shy away in utilizing said ingredients. The reality is they dial up the animalic and the result is a success.
For me, there is not much to endeavor with these scents as I graduated from the School of Musc Koublai Khan by Serge Luten. Musc Koublai Khan by Serge Lutens was my first introduction into the hemisphere of niche which led to my rationale of you can’t get niche perfumes it now you never will. To my surprise I loved Musc koublai Khan at first bite with all of its sinful pleasure and raw alpha stench. I enjoyed every spray of Musc K.K. and the danger it warranted from so many reviews. Now Getting back to SP Parfums the animalic proportions seem to be a little larger than Musc Koublai Khan but how it blends with other quality ingredients removes any detection of intimidation. While SP Perfumes defines its expertise in experimenting with animalics the German based company displays its expertise in vintage accords while embracing 21st Century modernity. In their perfume White Blossom Powder– a powdery floral with a vintage Honey, wax and vanilla accord is used along with crisp galbunum and florals. Usually, with a perfume like this you would expect something vintage and stuffy reminding you of Elizabeth Taylor. Not so. White Blossom combines an almost fruity floral aspect (Jasmine Sambac-Tuberose) with some resins, spices and pachouli to give it a splendid punch alongside styrax, benzoin and elemi. White Blossom is really soothing and juicy. The tuberose, jasmine and galbunum make it vintage-modern. The perfumes mentioned are just two of many examples of what SP brings forth which is good quality and unique perfumes.
When I first learned of SP Parfums I was very intrigued and waiting to be impressed by observing some of the notes. When the opportunity arrived to actually witness the craftsmanship of Sven Pritzkoleit, a pharmacist, chemist and self taught perfumer with 20 years invested in the olfactory arts, I knew instantly that SP Parfums would soon enough, position itself to be considered something special…and they have with many accolades including one by Luca Turin fondness for their Violet Moss perfume.
I picked a few that I would like to Share with you :}
Liquorice Vetiver– A potent blast of very black licorice at the onset. At first it appears linear due to the quality of the licorice note but soon settles down into more earthly moving Chypre notes of moss, amber and pachouli. I think the pachouli mixed with what SP describes as ‘Green Citrus notes and Ylang Ylang is what makes this adorable despite the reservations one might have with black licorice. It mellows down to nice smooth and refreshing scent that flirts with a little whiff of Dr. Pepper but better. After an hour it does fade a little but I think, I hope that this will be in extrait de perfume format like other SP perfumes. Its sweet, dirty and very pleasant.
Intense Wood Spirit– Expect a nice dose of Civet and Castoreum. The animalic is strong and lasting with this one. It sets the tone for an intense spiritual awakening as intended by the name for this. Some hot and dry spices are added with incense, myrrh, jasmine and a soothing wood accord. So far Intense Wood Spirit is really working as it unfolds into an unusual novel wood scent. I think SP has struck gold with this one as Intense Wood Spirit is really kicking some woody ass and taking numbers. It is an extract de perfume and very potent. It has a nice moist smokiness to it in that it smells like fresh cut wood smothered in spices and resins. Lastly, there is a rose scent which perfects everything. This is a nice and sophisticated but strong scent. I say this is one of the best wood scents I have smelled in years. Lots and lots and layers and layers of depth in this scent.
Lignum Vitae Forte– This is yet another strong and potent extract de perfume by SP. It is described as a strong masculine vintage barbershop Fougere. When you smell it there are many impressions like rain, wet granite, rich earth soil, leather and the combined smell of all following a mid spring rain shower. With all these impressions something about Lignum Vitae Forte is very comforting. I think it is the pachouli, rosewood, nardus and musk. Together it produces a pleasant grainy sweet smell that won’t go away. This is a good thing. Rounding out the rest are Guiacwood, Sandlewood and cite. It has a vintage feel at first but settles down into something comforting later. Just add a sweet smelling musk powder note. Another good one by SP
Suntam Glam– This is advertised as a vintage style fragrance with 70’s style sun tan lotion and the smell of beaches. It is a collaboration with SP Parfums and a Fragantica writer named Miguel Matos. I never met Miguel or anyone from SP but when I do a toast will be made for Suntamglam just because it is so unusual but great. It is safe to say Suntamglam took a few rounds of experimentation and collaboration to capture the Beach life. Expect Suntan accords, Civet/Castoreum, dirty skin accords with Tonka, Florals and spice. It has a special kind of dirtiness to it also which goes with the sun tan oil notes. It is sweet and a little dirty. There is more to cover when observing the creation of this scent. The link below should help.