I begin here a series of posts that will consist of mini-reviews for some of the most interesting scents I have recently discovered and enjoyed the most. Some are new, some are well known and through my reviews I hope to get some of you consider testing them out.
SlumberhouseKiste (2015) – A gourmand with a twist
This is the first scent from Slumberhouse that I tried and it immediately sparked my interest to explore the rest of the line. Fans of Arabie should give this one a try. Astonishing rich and potent (no wonder as this little 30 ml potion comes as an extrait) Kiste captures the smell of all sorts of exotic fruits left in the sun to dry. They become sugary and denser over time receiving some balsamic aspects. After a while a tone of tobacco comes at the surface along with a blush of earthy patchouli giving the scent a darker edge. Even if it touches the limit of sweetness, Kiste as experimental as it is and having nothing artificial manages to be easy to wear, so it will have its followers for sure. It could be an interesting choice for cooler days in autumn.
Official notes: tobacco, peach, scotch heather, tonka, henna, elderberry, patchouli, honey
Histoires des Parfums Tubereuse 3 Animale (2010) – A rare and strange beast among white flower scents
I was hooked right from the start. I discovered here a majestic tuberose infused with warmth of the sun in a dangerous complicity with some mysterious oriental notes. It no longer feels serene and white, as if the flower abandoned all its purity in Do Son and it also doesn`t have that narcotic, dazzling presence as in Fracas or Carnal Flower. No, Tuberose 3 is a white Duchess lying on a plush armchair chain smoking in penumbra. And is more dangerous as in any other scent I know. Although I expected the scent to open with a huge blast of tuberose I didn`t quite noticed the flower in the first place, because of a strong constellation of oriental nuances that created a captivating preamble. I mostly got a dried aromatic mixture with some fruity hints in it and immortelles, elements which are building a sort of veil around the main note. It smells intense and dusty, evoking the bitter sweet nostalgic atmosphere of a stuffy room decorated with furniture soaked in history. There`s a vase with tuberoses on one table and a fragile negligée is thrown over the old oriental carpet. From the darkest corner of this room the tuberose gives the impression of a purring panther looking after a new victim. In conclusion Animale 3 is a fantastic dark scent about a white flower which shows here another facet of her multiple personalities.
Official notes: tuberose, neroli, kumquat, aromatics, prune, blond woods, immortele
Robert Piguet Alameda (2013) – a summer flanker for Visa?
This scent is incredibly tricky! I`ve tried it several times paying attention at how it develops and every time the notes are creating the same unexpected effect on my skin so I`ve almost lost my hope trying to recognize them. Let me put it clear: Alameda is a very well done scent I was happy to discover (a bit late, I have to admit as it was created in 2013) that oozes quality and has all the necessary features to become a successful seller in the Piguet line. But if you expect to find a floral chypre with notes such as lily and iris root with animalic facets you`ll be probably deceived. In reality, Alameda evokes the exotic flora of a Polynesian island, similar with what Réve d`Anthala from Evody also achieves to do. I wonder why the orris root note has been listed instead of the tropical frangipani that I distinguish so clear? I suspect the orris is playing a silent role in the background and the castoreum is probably an inoffensive plush toy, not having anything to do with its fierce apparitions in Cuir from Mona di Orio or Opium.
Alameda is a bold, luxuriant fragrance ideal to be worn in late summer evenings maybe with a silk dress. Besides, it has some Visa vibes perceptible mostly in the base when the patchouli throws some spicy dark nuances over the white floral chore. Imagine Visa on vacation with a plumeria tucked behind one ear and you`ll have a picture of Alameda.
Official notes: bergamot, lily, rose, orris root, patchouli, amber, castoreum
Making of Cannes Premier Role (2014) – the modern Must from Cartier
Recently I rediscovered the good old Must de Cartier in perfume version when I noticed it one day on an elegant lady who wore it soooo well that it actually made me consider buying it in the same day. But I had a reason not to. The only problem I have with Must is the fact that is a bit too formal, too “padded shoulders” with its folded resins and layers after layers of flowers with animalic undertones. Therefore it doesn`t suit very much my casual style so probably I would have only a few occasions per year to wear it at special events. But there is hope for me and it`s name is Premier Role. I have tried it a few days ago in a French perfumery knowing nothing about this new brand. The heavy black bottles caught immediately my attention. Premier Role opens quite dusty and dry with a beautiful dose of bitter green galbanum. This ingredient is very pronounced and comes single on stage as if the perfumer intended to leave it shine for about 15 minutes or so. Must opens the same but rougher. After that, both scents bring flowers at the surface, but in Premier Role the ylang blends so well and soft with the neroli creating a tender, velvet-like mixture, incomparable softer as the one you get form Must. Balsamic accents of amber are creating along with the still perceptible flowers a creamy wonderful base. Both Must and Premier Role share the same dominant notes such as galbanum, ylang-ylang, neroli and amber, and as I said they do smell very similar having the same power and sillage, but on a parallel test I concluded that for me Premier Role is a winner because it is more versatile and contemporary and it gives me the chance to wear it a lot more often. The brand is owned by the young and talented Audrey Guetta Courbiere from Grasse and the scents were inspired by the Cannes Film Festival and the atmosphere from the backstage. I have only tried Premier Role and L`Amour La Mode which is also very good replicating the suave smell of a rose infused lipstick in almost the same manner as Misia from Chanel Les Exclusifs.
Official notes for Premier Role: galbanum, cardamon, elemi, coriander, rose, neroli, ylang-ylang, tuberose, amber, Indonesian patchouli