I have to confess that I enjoy musky animalic perfumes and among my favorites in this stable are Musc Khoublai Khan and Marc-Antoine Corticchiato’s showjumper Musc Tonkin.
This preference probably comes from my other hobby which is as addictive as cocaine but much more expensive, one of the equestrian disciplines – dressage. Coming back to perfumeworld I was always in quest of a perfume capturing the smell, the real smell of riding a horse: sweet musky floral/ indolic scent with leather accent.
Horses haunted the olfactive imagination of many perfumers and, as a consequence, there are several perfumes claiming the smell of horse mane or the smell of an Arabian horse and the list can go on. In my perception, none of these really captured that sweet floral musky smell of horse sweat combined with the salty leathery smell of the saddle, reins and bridles. Searching and testing a lot of musky animalic leathery scents I finally succeed these days to find my real horse ride perfume – Army of Lovers by LM Parfums.
The beginning of Army of Lovers, fragrance named after a Swedish band popular in early 90’s that Laurent Mazzone adores, takes you back in time – it s like a vintage rose leathery perfume.
During the first hour I close my eyes and I’m there in the arena almost at the end of my training with Captain Barbossa trotting, having in one hand a big bunch of dark roses and in the other hand the reins, everything being so real: roses, horse sweat and the saddle
At this stage the ghosts of Gucci’s L’Arte and Theo Fennell’s Scent appeared on my skin but, mostly, this fragrance has the dark vibe of Serge Lutens’s Rose de Nuit. The rose leather accord is velvety and decadent and during the first hour I’m very much tempted to believe that Army of Lovers is dark rose perfume but let’s see what is happening until the end of the ride.
There is also a strong chypre vibe after 3 hours, the illusion of oakmoss probably being created with the help of the green notes of coriander lending more sophistication, cleaning up the stable and grooming the horses. There is a certain degree of dirtiness but do not expect more dirtiness than in other old school perfumes. Army of Lovers has the perfect dose of dirtiness, on the right skin can be wearable in public without blushing. After the dark rose perfume moment now is the chypre perfume time.
As the time passes the huge velvety dark roses bunch fades and the equine sweet musky smell becomes much more insidious evolving into a leathery animalic scent but in the same time starts to be soft. It it is obvious that Army of Lovers is a genuine seduction scent and does not take any prisoners.
This long ride ends after many hours (8-10) during which Army of Lovers left big trails behind. At this stage the final notes – honey and amber make Army of Lovers sweeter, the leather scent becomes soft and ambery with the memory of roses.
If you are looking for a modern classic , a “baroque” fragrance having an aristocratic allure and you are not afraid of horses you have to give Army of Lovers a try.
Army of Lovers LM Parfums 2014
Notes: Coriander, Spice, Rose, Violet, Cashmere woods, Sandalwood, Patchouli, Oak moss, Honey, Amber, Musk.