I do not know the reason why but lately the Perfume Fairies decided that it’s high time for me to get my hands on some samples of hard to get Guerlain perfumes that were recently released.
Le plus beau jour de ma vie
It s supposed to be a wedding perfume and all expectations are around white color, emotion, happiness and flowers. It really fulfills my expectation from the color perspective, almost everything in this perfume is white: orange blossom, white candied almonds, white chocolate, white musk.
It s a nice and pleasant candied flowers bouquet focused on orange blossom with a vanilla drydown but I was still expecting and dreaming about that “je ne sait quoi” typical for Guerlain perfumes.
Le plus beau jour de ma vie did not gave that thrill. Instead it’s like a flat sugar overloaded tour through L’Art et La Matiere collection : the angelica notes in the beginning remind of Angelique Noire, the middle white chocolate note has inside the ghost of Iris Ganache and the dry down slightly reminds of Cuir Beluga . This is a very sweet Guerlain compared with all the other perfumes they released since 2005 and overall feeling it’s a“ deja vue” in orange blossom and vanilla. But not of L’Heure blue as you might expect but of Killian’s Love.
Notes: angelica seeds, pink peppercorn, citrus fruits, sugar coated almond accord, rose, orange blossom , patchouli, vanilla, white musks , incense
There is a tradition at Guerlain to discontinue at one moment in time a perfume and after some time the spirit of that perfume reincarnates under a different name. One good example is Guet Apens which came to life for the first time back in 1999 as a Christmas limited edition . The perfumer behind was Mathilde Laurent and not Jean Paul Guerlain being one of the most representative Guerlain perfumes of the last decades not created by Guerlain family. After a few years the body and soul of GuetApens reappeared around mid 2000 in fragrance world as “Attape Coeur” part of Parisienne collection surviving until 2010 when it was discontinued. During its short life Attrape couer succeeded to attract the hearts of many perfume lovers. Then in 2014 Guerlain did a special edition perfume for Harrods named Royal Extract which is very close to the deceased Guet Apens and Attape coeur.
Fortunately being one of the proud owners of a Attrape Coeur decant after getting Royal Extract I could compare both perfumes.
Attrape Coeur I can easily call it a modern classic being a fruity floral powdery amber composition in their very typical style that, unfortunately these days, looks like it was lost during a visit at a confiserie. It opens with a powdery iris followed by a rose having a fruity tone and a violet that reminds of lipstick. The mid notes have some peach and sweet creamy sandalwood that gives opulence to the composition. At this moment I detect also some civet or at least traces of civet because Attrape Couer has an animalic vibe but not as intense as it is in Shalimar. The basenotes are mainly powdery amber and vanilla changing from seduction to comfort.
And now about Royal Extract: if Attrape Coeur would be an oil on canvas painting then Royal Extract is, at least in the first hour , the same painting but this time painted using watercolours probably due to IFRA restriction. After some time Royal Extract gets better starting to be richer and succeeds to create in basenotes the same comforting feeling as in the final of Attrape couer
According to Monsieur Guerlain in 2011 Guerlain decided to launch a new perfume Le Bolshoi to celebrate the re-opening of the famous Bolshoi Theater in Moscow, perfume that was a reissue of Les secrets de Sophie from 2009. Then in 2012 they released another perfume from the Bolshoi series La Traviata available this time both in Moscow and Paris with the same Les secrets de Sophie.
In 2014 Guerlain released the third one from this collection – Black Swan but this time with a new perfume inside the beautiful bottle and available only in Moscow.
Black Swan is A GUERLAIN! This was my first feeling when I tested. I think that , after GuetApens/Attape Coeur , this is second perfume that really bears inside Guerlain’s DNA. As in Samsara the entire composition is centered on sandalwood, being a floral woody fragrance. It does not resemble with Samsara being a new typical Guerlain interpretation of sandalwood. It starts in a fresh light with a citrus note and with the first sandalwood accord then the florals appear on the stage – sweet jasmine and lily of the valley bringing lightness while the woods there are soft and warming. Powdery violets are not missing this show making this scent together with vanilla more comforting and feminine but sandalwood never leaves the stage until the curtain is down.
Black Swan is a brilliant interpretation of sandalwood note in the way that only Guerlain can do it. My expectations were around a perfume full of drama and darkness but, instead , a splendid creamy soft sandalwood scent with a comforting vibe being Odette not Odile
Notes: sandalwood, milky notes, lemon, bergamot, mandarin, jasmine, lily of the valley, rose, violet,cedarwood, white musk , vanilla