Niche Fragrance Magazine

Short Reviews of New Launches (I)

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Having the chance to test some of the latest arrivals in the Perfume Land I was tempted to write short reviews about our first encounter. Here are my first thoughts and I m pretty sure that for some of the perfumes tested probably a deeper relationship will develop between us in the future.


Epine Mortelle LM Parfums

From the visual ads of this perfume you can expect dark roses on a dark night but instead of this darkness you will get pink. Pink from a beautiful bunch of roses with lipstick loaded violets on a bed of pink and black pepper. The powdery notes from mimosa and the musky vanilla drydown makes Epine mortelle easy to like. In fact vanilla appears early after the first half an hour and hangs on until the end. Epine mortelle is a rose scent, powdery and sweet with an echo from YSL’s Paris and Lipstick Rose. It has a gourmand vibe but it not so girly in spite of pink.

The longevity is very good and has huge silage on my skin, I will definitely look forward to a second encounter with Epine Mortelle which seems to have no “epines” and is not deadly at all.

Notes: Pink pepper, black pepper, Sechuan pepper, cumin, nutmeg, anise, angelica, violet, Damascene rose, Centifolia May rose, mimosa, blackcurrant, musk, and vanilla.


Sunshine Amouage

A new perfume from Amouage, the first one in a new collection Midnight Flower and a new approach .

Please do not expect a typical Amouage scent. Sunshine does not show at all that stuff that’s usually in Amouage signature: frankincense, cypriol, leather, agarwood and oakmoss but it enters into a new territory. It ‘s a“to be continued “ version of Journey, a nice sweet floral fruity fragrance containing a bouquet of white flowers, osmanthus, including some almonds with black currants and vanilla.

On skin shortly after the first half an hour Sunshine becomes linear and that ‘s all you can get, nothing spectacular just a nice behaving perfume. Good longevity, moderate silage but I was expecting more from Amouage…..

Notes: Blackcurrant Liquor, Almond, Davana, Osmanthus Absolute, Jasmine, Vanilla, Magnolia, Cade, Patchouli, Blond Tobacco, Papyrus.


Gentlewoman Juliet has a Gun

The marketing people from Juliet has a Gun did their best to catch perfume lovers attention with Gentlewoman which is “A masculine fragrance dedicated to women”.

What’s behind the magic of marketing? A classical neroli citrus cologne done with modern synthetic raw materials with good longevity but the silage is typical for a cologne after the first half an hour. It s like a green neon light that flashes in the night.

Gentlewoman starts sharp with violent citrus notes and turns into a (very) soapy cologne with traces of almonds and ends on Ambroxan Boulevard. Expectations were around a cologne with some steroids “ a masculine fragrance” but it is a plain and simple unisex scent which made me think that if I need to wear a masculine cologne why not borough it from my man?

Notes according to Juliet has a Gun website : “main ingredients: Neroli Essence, Bitter Orange Petitgrain Essence, Calabrian Bergamot Essence (Capua)”

My name is Alexandra , I’m a pharmacist working as a consultant in pharma and healthcare living in Romania. I’ve been always fascinated by the world of scents , perfume and horses being my hobbies . I m interested in the perception of the perfume and in discovering the emotions perfume is triggering , focusing less about the notes of a perfume . My fragrance reviews are based on my perception being an subjective olfactory experience so, please always sample yourself.

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