The name of the new Italian niche perfumery house Masque Milano born last year started to spread fast, their scents : Terralba, Monte Cristo, Tango, Luci ed Ombre creating emotions in the perfume aficionados world. Their latest launch is Russian Tea.
The concept behind this brand is the mask (masque) used in theater to create characters, the perfume being perceived as a mask under which somebody can hide and disguise : “ Perfumes to wear like a second skin….the perfume behind a mask”.
Masque Milano perfumes represent various “scenes” like memories from the past, emotions and love, visited place, dreams, each fragrance being part of an Act.
Russian Tea is Act I – III , Act I being according to Masque “ a collection of experiences, discoveries, places and journeys” , scented memories from a trip to Russia , telling the story of the Russian tea ritual and of the long journey of tea through Siberia having the “caravanserai campfires meant to keep the precious tea cargo dry “. A new tea fragrance is born but tea fragrances usually are light scents with quit short life and low silage which is not pretty much Masque Milano’s style, their perfume having power, along life on skin and impressive silage.
How is it Russian Tea in fact? A dark, versatile creature made out of smoke and tar, a leathery incense fragrance with a strong black tee note.
The opening of the perfume is an olfactory picture of the Russian tea ritual. The strong black tea smell together with green minty notes are dancing in the air like the hot steams when pouring hot water in cups. The fruity raspberry note joins the mint accord creating somehow a cold breeze acting as counterpoint suggesting Russian winter: someone entering into the tearoom leaving the door open for few seconds enough that winter makes its presence inside. There is no raspberry sweetness only the flavor giving some light to the dark black tee accord.
As the scent is evolving, close to the smoky black tea – the perfume’s heart which becomes on my skin as time passes more leathery and woody, a light floral note appears maintaining the lightness brought by raspberry.
At this moment some sweetness can be also perceived announcing that immortelle entered into the stage but not for long time. I can easily define Russian Tea as a dry perfume, its sweetness being like a ghost during the perfume development on skin, possible representation of some nostalgic summer memories while drinking a tea cup in cold January.
The dark black tea accord very well underlined by smoky incense has strong presence from the very first moment when perfume lands on skin and stays around 10-12 hours which is the life of this perfume. The perfumer illustrated so well the image of the burning fire keeping dry the tea leaves during the long journey in cold Siberia.
Russian tea does not have the delicacy of the fragrances featuring tea but is not either a powerful and intense masculine leathery incense perfume. It has somehow a lightness not common at all for leathery incense perfumes that makes it easy to wear and difficult to forget.
If you are looking for a tea scented fragrance or a special incense fragrance you have to give a try to Russian Tea. It will take you on a long journey to Russia.
Russian Tea Masque Milano 2014
Perfumer: Julien Rasquinet
Notes: mint, black pepper, raspberry, black tea, magnolia, everlasting flower, leather accord, incense, birchwood and cistus labdanum.