Resin Sacra works by way of deception. While appearing as a pure Incense fragrance at first glance and sniff it gradually turns into a separate scent for a moment, then changes again before finally reverting back to its original form of Incense. The Incense notes in Resin Sacra present a challenge to the casual and cultured wearers of the hallowed incense fragrances in that there is subtle sense of antagonism and even bitter irony involved when crossing paths of this Resin Sacra that it sounds more like an initiation into an ancient order.
The antagonism is all of the nuances built around the incense notes that change the scent from its initial smell without cluttering the perfume. The Irony involved is despite the forementioned nuances and their ancillary roles the Incense is never over utilized like in so many fragrances. It is has a specific plan to be subtle but powerful in its own right-that is the irony. This is a civil perfume as it touches the welcoming aromas of gentle wood, smooth resins, warm earth, frankincense, pachouli, remnants of honey and a brush of leather.
This is a very smooth and cavalier incense fragrance that is every bit of polite, deep and handsome as they come while remaining sophisticated. After all, with the plethora of incense perfumes coming and going whats left for the imagination. What could be so different about Resin Sacra one would say.
Frankincense is a rather ambiguous term these days as it is supposed to represent incense in a perfume and everything will be just fine. Not so with Resin Sacra as you smell a nice crisp and cool blast of arctic air found with the finer elements of marble stone in a subtle form of white type frankincense that is chosen which is not to flaccid or to erect. Perfumer Jaques Chabert chooses the exact amount and type of frankincense to avoid the all too familiar “Blah” effect. So, as Frankincense plays it part instantly you perceive the civility as stemming from the symphony of naturalized mixtures of Cistus producing the honey effect, ambroxan molecule which can never go wrong in a perfume and a milky leather sweetness also known as benzoin from Siam. Indeed, Resin Sacra at times tastes of fresh cubes of salty caramel ready to eat. As usual I often refer to examples of cuisine for an added effect in my reviews but as you read and visualize what I’m relaying to you Resin Sacra tastes even better.
What happens next is an addition of pachouli and vetiver. It is an interesting combination as earthy vetiver tugs with the potency of pachouli to warrant an sand and warm earth effect that is a definite constant when wearing this perfume. The vetiver used in this seems more of a drier version than most wet grass types which explains why this specific combination works. The idea of vetiver in this fragrance was brilliant because it mixes so well pachouli along with doses of sandlewood and suede. The line-up looks simple but as mentioned before its the deception in this that works as Resin Sacra morphs and morphs again.
For the finale, you have Suede, Sandlewood and Ambrosian. The Sandlewood is pretty tame. It is almost too creamy at times. However, it is the suede that makes this fragrance interesting or deceptive shall we say. Throughout the performance of this perfume you have a constant reminder of suede that meshes with everything but has in interesting relationship with the arctic blast of cool air from the frankincense. Imagine the smell of Utopia, thats the effect suede has in this. Then with all the other notes added in it becomes pure bliss. This version of akin to the smell of freshly brushed suede as you are walking into a fine leather goods store. The endorphin rush of this particular scent is the hallmark of this perfume. Finally, Ambroxan arrives and it makes everything better by mellowing the sweetness of the honey preventing any cloying sweet overtones. At times, one might take Resin Sacra as cousin to Diptyque’s Oud Palao but sampling each side by side they both take different turns down the olfactory path. One is more smoky whilst the other is more incense-ash and suede. Resin Sacra is smoother but with great sillage, volume, depth and projection. Resin Sacra bypasses the base Chakras and proceeds to the 7th Chakra producing a feeling of supreme enlightenment!