I’ve been feeling despondent about trying new scented things for quite some time now. I don’t know what’s going on with me, on more levels then one, but that’s a different story. Less than a year ago I was still full of enthusiasm about discovering new perfumes for my never ending wish lists, after all, making lists and ticking things off them is still one of my biggest nerdy pleasures. But the fire has been put out somehow and I’m yearning for its return yet I haven’t a clue what to do to get it back. I still keep testing fragrances for sure, plenty of them every week, as I have another little project going apart from the few blog posts. But I can’t fall in love anymore. Is it the perfume, is it me? I don’t know, but I’m determined to do everything I can to get my perfume mojo back.
Meanwhile, you should see my sample stash. It’s growing at an exponential level and I can barely keep up with. Almost nothing gets worn a second time, apart from my cherished full bottles, that goes without saying, and the few decants that hold some interesting things I didn’t get around owning in a full size just yet. One of them is Serge Lutens Rose de Nuit, which is so beautiful I could cry. The most wistfully sensuous rose ever made, that waxy, musky, dirty vibe underneath the leather-apricot-rose combo just makes my knees melt. I wore it the other day and it’s one of the reminders of why I love perfume in the first place. And I want more. I want for perfumes to move me. I don’t want to smell pretty, I want to smell devastating, even if it’s only in my mind. I already have perfumes like this, but I’m a greedy bitch that can’t stop at a single chocolate square and always wants more. So I never stop looking and I did come across some interesting works, one or two of which have the potential to morph into beautiful, lasting love but nothing to really shake my world. Yet.
Aedes de Venustas Iris Nazarena is a beautiful, very nuanced, elegant and soft take on the Iris theme. It feels cool and velvety at the same time. I have a strand of irregular shapes pearls in various shades of nacre grey, with delicate iridescences of pink and green, and Iris Nazarena has the same discreet, yet not very formal refinement. There’s the slightest touch of the bohemian about it. At the beginning it smells sweet-earthy, with that unmistakable whiff of carrots Iris absolute has, followed by a subtle floral element with overtones of apricot and soft leather. There’s also a gentle spicy smoke floating about. The whole thing is lighter than air and quite sensuous, but I don’t think I need it.
Another one I liked was Aedes de Venustas Palissandre d’Or, a very mouthwatering rendition of the wood theme, again very soft and refined, but also very tender. It needs to be tried on the skin, it’s where it blooms and comes into its own, on paper it stays somewhat boring throughout. It smells a little bit sweet and milky, with a honeyed floral vibe, I can almost swear that I sense something like linden blossoms tea on my skin, but it must be some olfactory illusion, probably the exquisitely gentle cinnamon interacting with the other elements. It’s incredibly soothing and it stays heart wrenchingly beautiful for about two hours but after that it just looses that pulsating, warm glow that made it special and moves into an unexciting cedarwood-ambroxan territory.
Le Gallion Sortilege is a very diaphanous interpretation of the floral aldehydic genre, a much more delicate version than the iconic Chanel no 5, with a subversive yet playful animalic vibe, very subtle though, so the perfume is always within civilised limits. I can only thing of a single word which summarises the feel of this scent and that’s luminescent. It’s like an aura, one that harks back to the fifties. It’s very feminine, very joyous but also sensual, with a deep, melting muskiness and a touch of woods. Floral, soapy, powdery, animalic, with a toned down aldehydic sparkle, I’m toying with the idea of a possible buy, as it is the first “chanelesque” fragrance that I felt really attracted to.
My latest acquisition though it’s Serge Lutens Muscs Koublai Khan, which was a semiblind buy. I did briefly test it about two years ago so I knew that I liked it, and when the opportunity of buying my first bell jar (albeit a partial one) presented itself at a reasonable price, I jumped in. Well, I like it a lot and with time all this liking might become love, but I can’t help wishing for it to have been even naughtier than it is. It’s actually much more well behaved than its infamous reputation would make you believe. Instead of a lion you get a kitten, but that’s OK because it’s a pleasure to cuddle and feel its softness. And it’s a delight to wear in the summer, it’s not at all overwhelming and it gives you that sensual edge that you might crave after an overload of citruses and light florals.
That’s it in a nutshell, dear readers. The few things I liked wearing, or testing or buying in the last 2-3 weeks. But as I said I want more than mere like, so please, please suggest new things I could try. Your most beloved perfumes, the transcendental ones, the sublimely erotic ones, the spiritual ones, the ones you can’t live without, the ones that make your eyes roll in the head with almost unbearable pleasure: I’m here, waiting.