Part of the Jul et Mad recently launched collection “Les White “ Nin-Shar is supposed to capture the splendor of Babylon’s Hanging Gardens using a very popular accord – rose/oud, that these days is a crowd pleaser. It can’t go wrong with this accord, it’s on the safe side but in the same time there is nothing spectacular, nothing new I thought while reading about it on Jul et Mad website. I had the chance to try first from Les White the wonderful Garuda which is by far my favorite.
My expectations were around the rose, thinking that I’ll get everything from the blossom to the roots and wondering about oud and about that “fraction” patchouli. I didn’t take seriously into consideration davana note from the opening thinking that it might bring a fruity note to the composition but reading about this perfume and the way it opens on the skin are two different stories and the reality is far from “rose/oud” cliche.
Nin-Shar has a powerful start, I had the feeling that all the notes from the first one, except bergamot which I couldn’t detect it, to those in the base want to burst out, struggling to get some air. You can get the same olfactory experience when you turn upside down on the kitchen table a bag full of spices, rose petals, incense, vanilla pods and wood near an open jar full of rose jam and a glass of red wine. Soon everything calms down and the rose starts its solo.
This rose is miles away from Kilian’s Rose Oud teritorry, it’s melted in davana oil and it looks like this combination gave superpower to the rose note, it’s big ,volatile with new dimensions.. It’s like an olfactory 3 D image of a rose from roots to the flowers made of dark red velvet petals full of sparkling red wine drops but a changing image. This rose note does not evolve too much on the skin but it changes, returning to the starting point: I get a dark rose, earthy and animalic with an boozy echo reminding of red wine which slowly turns in a pink syrupy rose water for some time then gets back to the dark rose. While wearing it for a few days I had the feeling that in some days the dark rose was with me, in other days the rose water syrup.
On other people skin Nin-Shar smells different, probably due to davana essence which, beside the sweet fruity note, when applied on the skin, is said to smell differently on different persons. This peculiar property is highly valued in perfumery to create fragrances with truly individual notes.
The oud in Nin-Shar is a soft one, done in the same style like the oud representation in Neela Vermeire’s Mohur , those that are not happy with loud, harsh oud notes can easily give a try to Nin-Shar. That “fraction patchouli” listed in the composition is a patchouli note without the cold camphorous smell but more animalic , keeping a good portion of the earthy character of patchouli and the overall effect is maintaining the dark side of the rose, reminder of the roots.
Nin-Shar fully succeeded to be different in the rose/oud crowd due to its unusual rose. Definitely is a must try for those who are fans of rose perfume in the quest for a different rose and can be an interesting and original for oud perfumes fans but definitely this fragrance is not for blind buying.
Jul et Mad 2015
Perfumer: Sidonie Lancesseur
Notes: bergamote, liqueur de rose, davana essence, Turkish rose absolue, Egyptian jasmine, patchouli fraction, oud, benzoin, Bourbon vanilla, cedarwood, sandalwood, incense absolue