Niche Fragrance Magazine

Mini Reviews on New Perfumes (II) : Cologne Indelebile, Gran Ballo, Oud Satin Mood

in Reviews by

Cologne Indelebile Parfums Frederic Malle

It looks like this summer neroli, orange blossom and eau de cologne are “en vogue”.

After JhaG’ s Gentlewoman Frederic Malle is releasing their interpretation of cologne mastered by the brilliant Dominic Ropion, the oldest fragrance representation, popular since beginning of XVIII century.

So, what can be done to “refresh” a cologne type of fragrance ? Was it as good as I expected taking into consideration Ropion’s implication?

First of all Cologne Indelebile is a kind of cologne that we all smelled before. A fresh smelling cologne that starts with a soapy typical note, heavy on orange blossom, not very impressive and a little bit disappointing for me, I have to admit that I m not a cologne fan.

What make this cologne different and modern? The mid and basenotes: narcissus notes and musks giving a twist to the cologne composition. Ropion creates the most amazing “salty skin” note using musks like nobody else ever did.

This note took me by surprise and totally conquered me, I’m all sold out to Dominic Ropion creativity. Cologne Indelebile starts like a cologne and it ends like a light (animalic) musky perfume and this summer it will be definitely my companion.

Notes: bergamot, lemon, narcissus, orange blossom, neroli and musks


Gran Ballo Casamoratti


The latest release of Casamorati focuses on “the tradition of GRAN BALLO or Debs’ Ball, was born in 1700 when in the noble palaces of the period, in a shining of lights, mirrors and golden stuccoes, young aristocratic girls had the opportunity of finding their own “Prince Charming”. It was clear that I was expecting a romantic floral perfume for young innocent girls, a perfume that should make you dream. How is in fact Gran Ballo? The pink bottle warns you right from the start – this is Barbie Girl’s perfume for her first prom.

Gran Ballo begins with a fruity caramel vanilla dance then floral notes join the quadrille having the same overdosed caramel vanilla partner and all the party ends on an amber base drenched in the same caramel vanilla sauce. It is a very sweet perfume highly recommended for those having a “sweet tooth”, those that do not enjoy sweet gourmand perfumes please stay away. Good longevity on skin with average silage.

Notes: berries, mandarin, gardenia, jasmine, honeysuckle, amber, caramel, vanilla, sandalwood


Oud Satin Mood Maison Francis Kurkdjan


Another fabric – satin enters MFK’s fabric collection beside silk, cashmere and velvet, one of the most creative fragrance collection featuring oud.

The perfume has an unusual opening for an oud composition: candied violets that will turn a bit powdery and vanilla which, together with oud, is accompanying a bouquet of different roses.

These roses melted in soft vanilla with a powdery violet note have the echo of several other rose/violet perfume: FM’s Lipstick Rose and YSL ‘ Paris.

Satin Mood has on one hand the collection’s DNA but, on the other hand, it’s miles away from Cashmere or Velvet Mood being soft and feminine, a flowery sweet oud with some make up traces giving a comforting feeling. Compared with the rest in spite of the fact that is named Oud Satin Mood oud is not the guest star, the leading role was given to vanilla roses.

As the fragrance evolves in the drydown the roses start to pale in favor of vanilla, benzoin and powdery oud. Francis Kurkdjan succeeded once again a brilliant interpretation of oud in an original manner.

With a very good longevity, more than 8 hours and a beautiful silage that gets a lot of compliments Satin Mood is a must try even if you are not (yet) fan of oud fragrances.

Notes: natural oud from Laos, rose essence from Bulgaria , rose absolute from Turkey , benzoin from Siam , violet and vanilla accord



My name is Alexandra , I’m a pharmacist working as a consultant in pharma and healthcare living in Romania. I’ve been always fascinated by the world of scents , perfume and horses being my hobbies . I m interested in the perception of the perfume and in discovering the emotions perfume is triggering , focusing less about the notes of a perfume . My fragrance reviews are based on my perception being an subjective olfactory experience so, please always sample yourself.

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