Testing some of the new launches in the Niche Perfume Land that becomes larger each day I’m sharing with you my first thoughts about them
Another Oud Juliet Has a Gun
The latest release of Juliet Has a Gun ironically named as a statement tries a lot to be a different oud but it doesn’t. My curiosity to test it was raised while reading the notes – raspberry with oud and by the fact that I really enjoyed their first oud scent – Midnight Oud.
How is it? I get in the beginning a huge synthetic mutant raspberry that smells like strawberries with oud notes. This is not a soft oud perfume but a harsh oud one probably due to the large quantity of aromachemicals and I think that is one of the sweetest oud fragrances that I tested up to now. The entire composition is not so complex and remains linear with some a little bit animalic musk in the base note.
Briefly: a strawberry/oud combo, very sweet, sticky and harsh perfume, miles away from Midnight Oud
Notes: bergamot, raspberry, oud wood, norlimbanol, musks, ambroxan
Nea Jul et Mad
This is one of “Les White” perfumes collection and it should have a “gourmand / floriental “accord, being an attempt to recreate the atmosphere during the Golden Age of the Byzantine Empire.
Nea opens with a strong spicy, fruity boozy note giving the feeling of tasting a very fine velvety fruit liqueur. It’s sweet but not very sweet , actually the sweetness is very well balanced by the spices . There is a gentle echo of caramel in this composition that never gets to really unfold and after some time I detect a milky fig note . I can’t easily recognize the floral notes except the rose , it’s more an oriental gourmand perfume than a gourmand floriental.
As time passes the strong notes from the start are softer and softer but keeping that complexity from the initial notes and sweetness slowly loosing ground in favor of spices. Nea is a very good example of gourmand , not so sweet perfume and can be a good choice for those in search of a gourmand fragrance not reminding of a confectionery.
Notes: date, davana, pomegranate, palm leaf, black pepper, jasmine, rose, dry plum, patchouli, cashmeran, vanilla, benzoin, caramel, tonka bean, ambroxan and musk.
OPUS IX Library Collection Amouage
This new entry in the Amouage Library Collection is inspired by Verdi’s La Traviata being described as a “soulful interpretation of the camellia flower”. Right from the start this perfume was a challenge for the perfumers that created it Nathalie Lorson and Pierre Negrin as camellia flower does not have any smell.
Opus IX starts quit atypical for an Amouage – fresh and spicy creating the image of a fresh flower with green accents . These first notes gave the impression of a new unknown flower, a hybrid between jasmine and gardenia that finally evolves to jasmine. I could easily recognize some notes from Opus VIII as the jasmine opens bigger and bigger on a spicy background with a lot of black pepper.
In the final act the jasmine disguised in camellia in spite of the innocence and freshness of the beginning shows its indolic character too. Slowly as the notes from base make their presence Opus IX starts to show its belonging to House of Amouage changing into a rich incense scent with an honey/ animalic accent probably due to the leather and civet.
Notes : camellia, jasmine, black pepper, guaiac wood, leather, beeswax, vetiver, ambergris and civet