Soon in this part of world the tuberose will bloom again and while waiting for this narcotic moment the idea of writing about some interesting tuberose perfumes came to my mind.Among the floral notes tuberose is the most contradicting, being made out of green floral freshness and carnal opulence, of daylight radiance and darkness of the deep night when it blooms and haunts perfumery for more than four decades
.During all these years tuberose note have passionate fans and detractors, you either love or hate this smell, there is no middle way. Those hating this scent frequently complain about that feeling that you have smelling for the first time a tuberose perfume: it’s like a big fist hitting your face, a smell that appears sickly and cloying for them but, in the meantime, a tuberose fan smelling the same perfume will be on cloud number nine and will describe its intensity , sensuality and creaminess. There are not so many notes in perfumery that have a reference scent like tuberose has. All tuberose perfumes are compared with Fracas, golden standard of this note, a beautiful composition but for me wearing it means “Mission Impossible”.I’ll try to refer more to tuberose centered releases from the last decade that are more or less close to the standard in no particular order in this mini guide for tuberose perfumes.
Beyond Love part of Kilian’s L’Oeuvre Noire is probably the closest to the real flower , a lush and romantic tuberose on a sweet musky bed. It starts with a green vibe and has a lot of radiance but later on, as evolves on the skin, this tuberose shows also its dark side common for all tuberose scents starting to play the Diva.Beyond Love it a a modern interpretation of this flower note and it’s quite easy to wear if you love this note otherwise if you want to start exploring tuberose scents is much safer to start with Do Son.
Tubereuse Couture Parfumerie Generale : it’s Pierre Guillaume take on this particular note revealing an almost gourmand tropical tuberose. It start in the same green vibe, maybe much more intense than Beyond Love but very soon sweetness appears , sugar cane is to blame, turning this scent from floral to floral gourmand zone. It gives also a summer vacation feeling due to that coconut like smell that I detected and it does not have a strong dark side . In a few words it s a funny and sunny tuberose to take with you during summer vacation, Diva went to a tropical island.
Narcotic Venus Nasomatto : now we are trying to enter into the territory of dark and sensual tuberoses. In spite of the fact that this scent was the “result of a quest for the overwhelming addictive intensity of female sexual power” do not expect to be perceived as “femme fatale” when you wear it. Beside the first impression , which is very strong(almost like a bomb) , a beautiful flower symphonie tuberose centered will delight you. You can almost recognise few notes from Michael(Michael Korrs) and even from Fracas but please do not expect to find the same sexual power like in Fracas. It is a classical floral, not in the sensual way, but in the way of expressing feminity and sweetness. Later on it is developing nicely into a skin scent, a very feminine one. I can say, without making a mistake, that Narcotic Venus did not turn to be as Narcotic as it was imagined but it is very Venus.
Tubereuse Mona di Orio : with this original interpretation , we are going outside the territory of that intoxicating strong smell and reaching the most green accord in a tuberose scent. Probably It was not build to reflect the greenness of the flower but to give a peace message to tuberose haters, how can bergamot and pink pepper hit you in the face? This freshness starts to fade gradually after one hour evealing a sweet ambery white floral scent loaded with sensuality that easily cross the boarder into Oriental perfumery land.It’s quite airy and quiet for a tuberose being a scent that can make those hating Fracas to start giving a second chance to this note
Are you in love with this note or hate it ? Which tuberose scent you like?