Apparently, fragrances sell out when IFRA rears its ugly, little head into the businesses of our favorite niche houses. Luckily, I’ve acquired a fair share of Pre-IFRAban No. 1 for Ozzwald’s which is due to be reformulated.
The first thing that comes to mind, I’ve smelled this before, but where? The fruited-apple-y-vanillic opening, a ha, Aventus 2.0, perhaps? Where Aventus gives you that pineapple-apple-birch-vanilla opening (well the good batches at least), No. 1 runs the course of fruits backed by a wallop of vanilla. No. 1 is definitely very mainstream in a très-niche world. Two other fragrances immediately come to mind in the first couple of minutes, Paco Rabanne 1 Million and Xerjoff JTC Comandante, no shade, I like both, but Comandante is only a mere few seconds similar to No. 1. Obviously Paco Rabanne is of no help in me comparing the notes of the two, to find similarities other than “fruity notes”.
Well yes, there are heaps of fruity notes and vanilla in both, there, we’ve found the culprits. Although I won’t delve into 1 Million and its million and one synthetic notes, I do get quite a bit of plum in the opening of No. 1; plums, apples, peaches, with a touch of oud and buckets of vanilla. I would say, the first couple hours are mesmerizing, unisex to the umpteenth degree, but the remaining 8+ hours on skin and days on clothing, No.1 is tip-toeing in pour femme territory. I encountered this same effect with some more recent vanilla-heavy discoveries; MFK Satin Mood and Tom Ford Noir for Her, quite the openings in all three, but they all reveal this unmistakable synthetic, platic-y, nauseating vanilla/sandalwood combination in the mid and dry down. Stop it right there!
No.1 isn’t ruined for me past the 3 hour mark, I like it, I will still wear it, but it very well may end up in my girlfriend’s fragrance wardrobe, she LOVES it. I can only hope that a post-IFRA reformulation will inject a little more oud into the equation and dial back the vanilla.