Talking about amber perfumes wintertime is the best time of the year for taking them out into the cold world. At the end of November when winter starts to show its teeth I’m bringing out of hibernation my big dark ambers: Tom Ford’s discontinued Amber Absolute, Opus VI from Amouage and Ambra Mediterranea of Profumi del Forte. I love them all but, in my opinion, they are all still missing some sweetness that can bring softness to these beasts so I’m in a permanent quest for that big dark and sweet amber, my cashmere amber.
Laudano Nero, one of this year releases from Tiziana Terenzi, seems to be close to my ideal amber perfume. More than that, I think it’s the most complex amber scent I ever tried until now and it’s dark, really dark. It really deserves the word Nero
The first notes burst very strong on my skin bringing out a boozy amber, cognac being easily recognized, with tobacco and some herbal touch of rosemary giving just a bit of stringency very well balanced by the sweetness of wormwood. There is also a hint of coffee in the top notes beside the cognac and tobacco and some licorice creating an almost gourmand sweetness.
As the perfume further evolves the stringency from the top notes completely disappear and Laudano Nero becomes sweeter with a delicious chocolate note. In the same time a dark powdery vibe like cocoa dust appear on my skin making this perfume an ambery gourmand one surrounded by darkness.There is something vintage in this scent , it reminds me somehow of vintage Shalimar extrait not in the sense of having similarities in the way they both smell but in the sense of giving to the wearer the same feeling – sensuality and mystery.
After the boozy amber and the dark chocolate accords another key note of Laudano Nero – the oud enters the stage. Far from having that medicinal sour smell the oud plays different in a soft manner. It contributes to the woody character of the base together with sandalwood still keeping the sweetness from the first notes and the softness with the help of vanilla and laudanum. During the first 2-3 hours it is a strong scent but in time it looses the strong character, after 6-7 hour changing into a skin scent that still lives for other 6 hours on my skin.
Laudano Nero can be defined as a dark amber scent with gourmand and vintage vibe having oud facets. Compared with Tom Ford’s Amber Absolute which acts on the skin like a monothematic amber scent, Laudano Nero it is complex amber, evolving on the skin, in a constant change from the first masculine notes to the final soft and feminine notes. The feeling wearing this scent is like wrapping into a soft black cashmere blanket sitting in front of the fire place.
In spite of the fact that is marketed as a masculine scent Laudano Nero is much more than a unisex amber, women who love amber will like it, its darkness lending to the person wearing this perfume a mystery aura.
Amber lovers looking for a gourmand amber to keep warm during winter please do give a try to Laudano Nero and you will not regret.
By Tiziana Terenzi 2014
Perfumer: Paolo Terenzi
Notes: wormwood, cognac, rosemary, tobacco, myrtle, amber, red rose, black locust honey, cedar, iris, sandalwood,rosemary, ash,slate, cashmere, laurel, incense, camphor, oud, vetiver, musk,oak, vanilla, labdanum