Well, my dearest fragrance aficionados it appears as if it is that time year again-for me anyways-where I customarily select an intoxicating ‘Leather scent to peddle in 600 words or less. Last year around this time I believe it was Cuiron by Hemut Lang which I introduced to you. I remember very well. It was the reformulation of the ‘Original’ Cuiron, which I still have not come across yet despite my efforts, that led to serious agitation and vile rebuttal which appeared like death threats when you read some of the reviews for the new Cuiron which I appropriately coined 2.0. Although change was inevitable, 2.0 is still holding the expectations I set…it still smells better than ever. With Some modern and some vintage 2.0 is still really cosmopolitan.
This year it is L’Artisan Parfumeur’s Violaceum 2 from their Natura Fabularis collection which features six fragrances that are to represent an imaginary garden rife with fantasy, intrigue and unlimited liberty to improvise. I have sampled one perfume from this collection-which happens to be Violaceum 2-and am now very eager to explore others from the Natura collection based upon my favorable impression and the wit utilized in the formulating Violaceum 2. According to L’Artisan: …”Violaceum pays tribute to the Ephemeral character of nature”.. because they feel there are isolated carpets of violets found in the shade of the forest. Violaceum therfore chooses a main violet note and builds around it using plenty of intrigue and character to change the perception of a singular note. L’Artisan wants something different with Violaceum and by George does it respond!
Brushing up on latin I accidentally discovered that the definition for Violaceum means ‘Violet colored’ or ‘Violet’ respectively. To keep things further in the tradition of Violet-Violaceum the perfume has a light warm purple color to match. Purple colored perfume it is! Are you feeling it’s wit yet? Now that we know Violet, the kissing cousin of Iris, is used I think it would be appropriate to name the other accords: Saffron, Carrot Leather and something extra like orris butter perhaps. The Saffron sure seems like it has an orris presence as it exudes a slight root smell to go with the pleasantries of spice. In fact, it is almost a cooling effect as the violet retains its original position. The carrot note in this superb. Instead of the raw sliced fresh carrot we all know so very well this carrot is warm, sweet and extremely friendly. Somehow, Violaceum captures the smell of freshly juiced carrot with a small addition of milk and cinnamon but is sweet. Also consider the carrot backdrop against the leather, Saffron and Violet. It just just blends so well and does not take away the intensity of an earthly kind of violet with possibly a combination of other undisclosed notes. It is prominent and even suffice throughout the life of the fragrance. Just remember to think carrot whenever possible. There is also an impression of leather and maybe Iris but I’m not prepared to say exactly how it is assembled. This was cleverly crafted. Is it the earthy violet that is used for a leather effect or a slight leather note strewn about. That is yet to be disclosed but if you take away one thing from this creation it is interesting in how everything works in unison. Violaceum is an uplifting leathery-violet perform and even playful. It is warm and comforting while the violet-‘iris like scent’ highlights the smooth leather edge including carrot. A spicy sweet leather floral this is. Lastly, the number 2 in Violaceum title stands for the number of test trials before deciding on the final formula. For two test trials Violaceum is definitely impressive whist remaining unique.