It looks that these days the shy violet is back in niche perfumery. Since last year there were several launches of violet centered fragrances some pairing in the classical way violet with roses like in French Kiss from Guerlain , Epine mortelle from LM Parfums or Chanel’s Misia , others trying new companions like oud in: Silk Mood from MFK and Aoud Violet from Mancera or leather, also “en vogue”, like in the new launch of The Different Company I miss Violet .
I miss Violet is part of the TDC’s Excessive Collection and “evokes attachment and contemporary incarnation of a secret love “ being a floral leather fragrance created by Bertrand Duchafour. My curiosity was raised enough to give it a try, I like violets in perfumes and love leather fragrances.
I miss Violet starts with the violet-iris make up evoking note but only for few minutes then powdery iris is leaving the violet in a green entourage of violet leafs, basil and sparkling mandarins. Champagne note is supposed to pop up according to the official notes but on my skin I couldn’t detect any champagne. Soft leather is hiding among these green notes successfully revealing that “vegetal leather accord”, soft leather being there right from the top notes until the last notes, performing together with the violet accord a waltz not a tango.
The violet is not very powdery as it is usually in perfumes, especially when paired with rose and iris and the leather note is soft, almost suede like. I do not feel a prominent floral accord , from my perspective I can easily say that I miss Violet it’ s a green leathery perfume with a classical vibe rather than floral leathery.
After the first hour the osmanthus brings a fruity apricot note to the composition putting more emphasis on the leather accord which, from now on, will be more intense than the violet but still remaining on the soft side. There is no harsh leather in this perfume in any moment, only the smooth side is revealed . From this perspective I miss Violet is very easy to wear it daily, I have some leather perfumes that I really love but they are not so easy to wear as often as I wish and also it can be a good starting point for those who want to explore leather fragrances.
This soft leather accord in I miss Violet has inside the same DNA like other Duchafour creations focused on leather: Traversee du Bosphore , Cuir Nacree and Skin on Skin There is also an ozonic note that brings together with mimosa continuity of the green accord even when the violet note is almost gone, acting in a similar way like aldehydes with cassie(mimosa) in Cuir Nacree keeping the leather tone soft.
The drydown reveals a musky vanilla embedded in ambergris bringing up sensuality turning in the end the green vegetal leather note into a light musky sweet tone closer to the smell of human skin echoing somehow Hermes’s Cuir d’ Ange.
I miss Violet has a good lasting power, around 7-8 hours on my skin with a average silage, is not a loud perfume. From my point of view it’s a one of the best (soft)leather perfumes and the best violet scent that I tried lately . If you like leather perfumes and did not find yet the one that you can wear everyday or and if you want a elegant violet fragrance not loaded with make-up you have to give a try to I miss Violet.
Notes: Violet leaves, Basil Vietnamese, Mandarin, Ambrette seeds, Champagne, Nutmeg, Osmanthus, Violet Flower, Iris, Mimosa, Cyclamen, Ozonic note, Leather, heart Mahogany, Vanilla, Musk, Ambergris