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Tiziana Terenzi

Maison Francis Kurkdijan Oud: SmoOooooouuuud

in Reviews by

saffron

I admit to feeling slightly aggrieved. How is it possible that nobody told me about this wonderful perfume before? Or, as is more likely, did someone tell me and did I immediately file it away under the general category of Just Another Oud?

I’m used to the full range of synthetic oud accords used in most Western style perfumery, including the medicinal, alcoholic burps of oud used by Montale, the smoked wood feel of the stuff used in the Dior Privee and Guerlain Deserts lines, and the sometimes oily, acrid approximations used by everyone else from Mancera to Tiziana Terenzi. I enjoy and own a number of these renditions. But I admit that I do have to be in the mood for the coarse honk of synthetic oud. It is a particularly brutalizing kind of note. KEEP ON READING

Black, Blue, Brown, Red and White: The United Colors of Montale

in Reviews by

There are 104 Montale fragrances registered in the Fragrantica database, all of which were released in the last eight years. It is impossible to keep up, so I am just going to give a brief rundown of some of the most popular ones (well, the only ones I’ve tried outside of Aoud Cuir d’Arabie, that is, but I  refuse to talk about that one).

Blue Amber: Ambers, and especially vanillic ambers, are the comfort blankets of the perfume world for me, so I have to constantly be on guard against my Pavlovian response to them (basically, sit, roll over, and present tummy for rubbing), otherwise I’d end up with ten bottles of minute variations on the same theme. My response to Blue Amber’s big, dopey play-dough amber is initially the predictable one – I want to roll around in it. Done in the Montale style – rich, slightly synthetic, and none too subtle – it has the potential to be someone’s baby bear porridge of the amber category. Weight-wise, it sits between the sheer woody-rose amber of Histories de Parfums’ Ambre 114 and the heavier, more aromatic Ambre Precieux by MPG. Blue Amber is nicely balanced – its toffee and whiskey opening is cut with a huge dose of that icy bergamot oil Montale uses in their aoud compositions, and a big saltmarsh vetiver note in the base adds a pleasing shot of brine. Salt and lemon are very effective palate cleansers. Still, my wallet is safe. It is very nice but, in the end, nothing exceptional. Ambre 114 satisfies me on the sheer amber side, and Ambre Russe is my heavy hitter for winter. Having established – after much trial and error – my North and my South of the amber territory, I am finding it easier to dismiss contenders that fall in the middle. KEEP ON READING

Laudano Nero or Black Cashmere

in Reviews by

Fireplace

Talking about amber perfumes wintertime is the best time of the year for taking them out into the cold world. At the end of November when winter starts to show its teeth I’m bringing out of hibernation my big dark ambers: Tom Ford’s discontinued Amber Absolute, Opus VI from Amouage and Ambra Mediterranea of Profumi del Forte. I love them all but, in my opinion, they are all still missing some sweetness that can bring softness to these beasts so I’m in a permanent quest for that big dark and sweet amber, my cashmere amber. KEEP ON READING

Rose Gold Oudh: Standing Out in a Crowded Field

in Reviews by

I’m just going to come out and say it: of all the rose-oud combinations that currently exist (and it is a very crowded field), Rose Gold Oudh by Tiziana Terenzi is by far the best. It is one of those fragrances that is so blindingly good that it makes you want to throw about a dozen bottles out of your collection and start again from scratch. It makes me regret the lesser versions of this genre that I’ve settled for over the last few years. But it also gets me excited about a style (rose-oud-patchouli combinations) that I thought had no gas left in the tank. KEEP ON READING

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