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Thierry Mugler

Bond-T by Sammarco: A Great Masculine Gourmand

in Reviews by

Men – step away from the A*Men and your L’Instant de Guerlain Pour Homme Eau Extreme, and pick up a bottle of this little beauty instead. This is sexy stuff. Bond-T by Sammarco is just the type of release you hope to see coming out of indie perfumers on their first outing – a smart re-thinking of common tropes, in this case the hyper-masculine patchouli-cocoa-tonka bean combo.

This one does everything right. It pairs a brown, dusty cocoa note with a dirty, castoreum-driven leather – and manages to come off as its own beast. Although it shares similarities of tone with Serge Lutens’ wonderful Borneo 1834, there is none of Borneo’s oriental richness. Rather, underneath the cocoa-patchouli skin of Bond-T there beats a heart of what smells like a wad of fruity, slightly fermented tobacco leaves and grimy leather. It smells rich and tannic, and just off-putting enough to stop it from being fully gourmand. KEEP ON READING

In Praise of Mainstream Pleasures

in Thoughts by

Right now, I’m a little bit tired of perfume. Well, not perfume per se, but the interminable rounds of testing of niche fragrances that I seem to have gotten myself into. With niche, you feel like you need to put extra effort into ‘reading’ the intentions of the perfumer behind it. Your brain is constantly in analysis mode rather than simply enjoying it for what it is. Then there’s the worry that you’re the only one Not Getting It. I think I’m a little burned out.

A very kind Basenotes friend sent me some O’ Driu samples and the little bag of them has proven to be my own personal Waterloo – they sit there on my dresser, each morning saying, hopefully, “Today?” KEEP ON READING

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