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Precious as High Jewellery: Ann Gerard Perfume Collection

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Recently I wanted to try something new that is not so talked yet, so I decided to explore the collection of the French niche house Ann Gerard. It caught my interest because all scents are created by Bertrand Duchaufour, a nose I resonate with very well most of the time. From what I have read, the jewellery designer Anne Gerard launched her own brand of luxury accessories in 1994, creating since then for prestigious companies around the world and one of her greatest skills is that she`s able to translate her customs ideas and even feelings into precious jewels that are both timeless and perfectly fitted on the personality of their owners – something I believe she achieved also very well with her collection of scents that she launched later in 2012. The line is small but eclectic and rich, covering different olfactory genres approached from new angles.
Perle de Mousse for example surprised my nose with its pale green smell that develops gradually and softly, as a whispered love poem. It exhibits melancholic facets of a classic chypre fragrance, proving this category still work very well in our days with a few subtle changes and improvements. First of all it is not so heavy as an old school chypre. It debuts leafy and just slightly aldehydic, then travels through a fine, scented cloud of lush flowers to reach a smooth base dominated by resins. An interesting fact is that the floral middle part seems to be the shortest, being kept tight between the verdant opening and the warm resins of the base. The thing I admire the most is how one single ingredient, namely ivy that is perceptible right from the start, is able to dominate and influence the whole composition, anchoring the scent into contemporary. Bertrand Duchaufour made a brilliant choice by deciding to increase the volume of this cold green raw material that has a faint bitter facet instead of using the common citruses that dissipate much faster. Thus, the ivy is very effective in the mixture. The note envelopes the shy bouquet of flowers and the warm resins and musk in an invigorating and transparent veil all the way through, giving a gentle contour to the elegant scent that seems very feminine and classic but with a modern, unexpected twist. KEEP ON READING

Rendezvous with Sentifique

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Last Saturday I had the great privilege of meeting Friedemann Ramacher the owner and creative director of the Swiss brand Sentifique in Basel at Hyazinth perfumery. He was there for a few hours as a guest to present his exclusive line, so I took the chance of finding right from the source the stories behind these creations. To my pleasure the meeting turned out as an in-depth presentation of each fragrance including sniffing some vials with precious raw materials which Andreas Wilhelm, his collaborator perfumer has used to create all the compositions. An interesting and important detail about Sentifique is that the process of creation starts long before mixing the ingredients. Mr. Ramacher is a very creative person (he has a long time experience in architecture and furniture design) therefore everything starts, as in movies, from a script. First he envisions the scent, the situation, he chooses a character and a mood. Then it begins the actual process of developing the scent when the talented perfumer Andreas Wilhelm turns by magic everything into reality. The result is a collection of five unique, expressive and alluring scents each telling a different story, every composition being a small universe of its own. KEEP ON READING

This is a beauty secret you must know about!

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Sentifique - Daim Rouge
Sentifique - Daim RougeI have always been charmed by the scent of cosmetics. As a little girl I used to climb on a chair to reach the face powders of my mother just to sniff their subtle scent and I still remember very clear how lovely she smelled when we kissed goodbye every morning when she went to work. She always took great care of her face using good face creams, powder, grey eyeliner and lipstick usually in a rapsberry shade. At the door she gently pressed her lips on my hand leaving in that spot a rozy “tattoo”, and later in the afternoon she lifted me up with joy and I could smell a mixture of make-up and the fresh air impregnated in her hair and clothes. I`ll never forget that, so naturally I inherited some of her beauty routine. For example I`m a huge fan at the moment of Guerlain lipsticks, which besides their great shades they posses a diaphanous violet scent that I find to be so wonderful. Then I love the Caron loose powders – they are amazinlgy scented with rose essence and incomparable to any other powders I`ve tried in terms of quality. But even if my care routine looked complete, something was still missing: a perfume that smells like make-up. So a few years back I started to be interested in perfumes inspired by the distinctive scent around the vanity table, so I searched and searched and found there are so many compositions that evoke the smell of make-up.

So far I discovered the classic L`Ombre Rose L`Original made by the French house Jean Charles Brosseau, a fragrance that smells like a delicate rose scented body powder you apply on fresh washed skin; then there is the biggest powder bomb of all time, one of the most renowned scents that duplicate the smell of make-up – the formidable Teint de Neige by Lorenzo Villoresi which combines an immense dose of heliotropine with sugar and pink roses laid on an rich musky base, boosting every woman`s feminity to the max; one can also be seduced by the irresistible Lipstick Rose Frederic Malle that reminds instantly of a lipstick thanks to the mixture of tender violets and pink roses, creating an über-feminine effect – in my opinion this scent is so demonstrative, like Marilyn Monroe singing “Happy Birthday Mr. President” to JFK; and I need also to mention the atmospheric fragrance Moulin Rouge made by the house Histoires de Parfums. That one not only smells like a lipstick, but also recreats accurately the entire smell of a Parisian cabaret – the cigarette smoke, the dust lifted by the girls dancing on stage mixed with hints of bitter absinthe…it is mysterious, dark and very tempting. These are my go to scents inspired by make-up, but recently I found another real gem that could complete a beauty arsenal: it`s called Daim Rouge and is freshly launched by the Swiss house Sentifique. KEEP ON READING

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