Paul Emilien is a new name on the perfume scene, as of 2014. Based in Grasse, France, he seems to be the artistic director of the brand, and the perfumer or perfumers behind the six perfumes launched in 2014 have not been named. Here below is my review of two of Paul Emilien’s perfumes, L’Espirit Divin and Une Belle Journee. The unique selling point of this new brand appears to be a heavy focus on sourcing and using raw materials of mostly French origin.
L’Espirit Divin opens on a wave of dry, nutty spices and aromatics so immediately impressive that minutes after spraying it on, I was tapping the name into my search engine to see how much it cost. (Too much for me, in case you’re wondering). Anyone who loves big, spicy Orientals will surely purr when this fragrance hits their skin. The saffron, black pepper, cloves, ginger, and cardamom in the opening all feel very dry and resinous, as if the spices have been dry-roasted in a hot pan and are about to explode. A touch of grapefruit and ginger adds a slight vein of adult bitterness, as well as a little lift to the heavy spicing. For the first thirty minutes, this glorious cacophony of spices and aromatics make me think fondly of vintage Opium, although in general L’Espirit Divin is far more aerial and diaphanous in comparison. But there is a familial link there to this great oriental, and it is a good association.