Niche Fragrance Magazine

Tag archive

Parfumerie Generale

Smoke, Woods, & Resins: Top 15 for Fall/Winter

in Lists/Reviews by

 

2016 has been a bad year for celebrity deaths and an even worse one for celebrity presidential elections, so I’ve found myself craving and wearing mostly woody, resinous perfumes that perform like one long howling basenote, working my tired neck muscles like a Russian massage therapist. This year, no roses, no leathers, and no ambers – just a long line of calming, resinous woods that make me feel like I’ve slipped into the Nirvana of a silent forest, isolated from all the problems of the world around me. KEEP ON READING

Cadjmere and the Danish art of Hygge

in Reviews/Thoughts by

This year, we spent our summer holidays in Copenhagen. And apart from serious wardrobe envy that had me fighting the urge to tackle every glamorous Danish woman to the ground and steal her clothes (and bicycle), I also discovered the Danish art of hygge.

Pronounced “heuuurgah”, as if trying to dislodge a hairball from one’s throat, hygge translates loosely to “coziness,” a concept that the Danes take very seriously indeed. This involves snuggling under cashmere blankets, lighting candles, drinking hot chocolate around a blazing fire, lounging around on sheepskin rugs, and, well, resting your face against the furry belly of a sleeping kitten. Basically, anything that gives you comfort and ease. The best explanation I found was in an article that defined it as “the absence of anything annoying or emotionally overwhelming; taking pleasure from the presence of gentle, soothing things.” KEEP ON READING

Iris Quest: Denouement

in Reviews by

For the fourth and final installment of in my Iris Quest (see Parts I, II, and III here), I’m focusing on all the iris fragrances that I (a) either forgot to include the first time round, (b) features iris not as the main player but as one important element in a larger whole – iris as part of an incense, woody, or oriental composition, and/or (c) features iris in the role of cosmetic or lipstick-style scents.

Let’s begin with an absolute heart-breaker….the amazing and utterly unaffordable Irisss by Xerjoff. KEEP ON READING

Iris Quest: The Beginning

in Reviews by

Chandler Burr writes that iris is “liquid good taste” and that description has stuck in my mind when thinking about, and wearing iris fragrances. I am not a natural lover of the note, but lately I’ve been charmed by the silvery elegance it brings to any fragrance, as well as by its ability to manifest itself in a myriad of ways ranging from violet, leather, vegetable roots, cosmetic powder, wet earth, metal, rising damp, and even (disturbingly) dirty, unwashed hair. Depending on what notes iris is matched to and what materials have been used to recreate the smell of either the iris root or petals, iris can mean a hundred different things. KEEP ON READING

Roses Volume V

in Reviews by

Wow, are we at Volume V already? I ain’t finished yet, ladies and gents. I might, however, be getting, if not exactly sick of rose, then a wee bit short-tempered with it. Before this frantic round of testing all the rose samples in my stash (see Volumes I, II, III, and IV), I had been inclined to go easy on rose fragrances when reviewing them, because rose is one of my favorite notes. But now, rose fragrances have to go above and beyond to impress me. Welcome to the tougher, meaner old hag that is now me. You roses have broken me. KEEP ON READING

Mon Dieu, Monsieur! A new Frédéric Malle Experience

in Reviews by
Jean Paul Belmondo - Monsieur. a fragrance like composed for him
Jean Paul Belmondo - Monsieur. a fragrance like composed for him
Monsieur. A fragrance like composed for Jean Paul Belmondo himself.

Mon Dieu, mon Dieu – this release is a shocker! While I am writing this, I feel like Belmondo in the photo above. I am enjoying the new Frédéric Malle release “Monsieur.” Mon Dieu indeed – this is one of the rare, almost groundbreaking perfume experiences we all are living for (more or less). The first spray leaves you puzzled, enough so that you want to sit down and take a deep breath. This is exactly what “Monsieur” reminds me of: the movie “Breathless” by Jean Luc Goddard from 1960. “Monsieur” is film noir personified – virile elegance, with a touch of masculine drama, heck – this is the utterly French…. Michel (Jean Paul Belmondo) and his love for american idols and the hipness they radiate. This is the irrational, wild passion of an elegant slickster in love with Patricia, a young and vivid American girl. Crisp ties and classic thick suits are popping up in my mind, smelling this fragrance. Oh wait – please let me apologize, I’ve been taken on a flight of fancy. Yes, the fragrance – I guess it’s time to talk a bit about it: KEEP ON READING

Re-Romanticising Our Era With Fragrance

in Thoughts by

“Everything in world can be represented in numbers and patterns”

(Quote from the movie PI)

Pi Movie Cover from 1998
Pi Movie Cover from 1998

It’s true – today’s world is more “real” than ever. The internet has accelerated the cognitive evolution of mankind to the point where information is not a question of knowledge anymore – reconnaissance is always available with the click of a mouse.  Every question can be answered on scientific level in a few seconds. We are living in a fantastic age of education – the fathers of enlightenment would be very proud of our achievements. But every step forward comes with some side effect, and how to judge those is a subject for another day. The abundance of always-available answers means the end of question marks and this is indeed a thing of wonder. Why are our kids living in such a marvelous world? It’s not really clear to us at the moment – and there is still so much to ponder… KEEP ON READING

Aomassai: On Approaching Smoking Point

in Reviews by

I’ve written about two of my favorite Parfumerie Générale fragrances, L’Ombre Fauve and Coze, already on these pages. Those two were instant loves for me, and easy full bottle decisions. Aomassaï, on the other hand, took a bit of figuring out on my part. As someone raised on the sugary fruit jam of Burberry Woman (don’t judge me!), I needed to find my way in to a completely different sort of gourmand fragrance, one that was the very definition of niche in its approach and execution. KEEP ON READING

GREEN!

in Reviews by

It’s no secret to my best fraggy friends that this year I’ve been on a particular perfume quest…..

……The Quest For GREEN

Everyone has certain notes and accords that resonate and add ‘flavour’ to the whole olfactory experience. Some like their patchoulis, roses, ambers, smokeys, etc etc.   Others are partial to categories such orientals, soliflores, chypres, floral, aromatics. What about colour? There are no ‘reds’, no ‘purples’, no ‘blues’ in perfumery (yet!), but there are mos def greens. And I love ‘em. KEEP ON READING

Mini Guide for the Land of Tuberose Perfumes

in Reviews by

Soon in this part of world the tuberose will bloom again and while waiting for this narcotic moment the idea of writing about some interesting tuberose perfumes came to my mind.Among the floral notes tuberose is the most contradicting, being made out of green floral freshness and carnal opulence, of daylight radiance and darkness of the deep night when it blooms and haunts perfumery for more than four decades

.During all these years tuberose note have passionate fans and detractors, you either love or hate this smell, there is no middle way. Those hating this scent frequently complain about that feeling that you have smelling for the first time a tuberose perfume: it’s like a big fist hitting your face, a smell that appears sickly and cloying for them but, in the meantime, a tuberose fan smelling the same perfume will be on cloud number nine and will describe its intensity , sensuality and creaminess. There are not so many notes in perfumery that have a reference scent like tuberose has. All tuberose perfumes are compared with Fracas, golden standard of this note, a beautiful composition but for me wearing it means “Mission Impossible”.I’ll try to refer more to tuberose centered releases from the last decade that are more or less close to the standard in no particular order in this mini guide for tuberose perfumes. KEEP ON READING

From Bedroom to Nursery: Three Maurice Roucel Musks

in Reviews by

 

Something Can Be Sympathy by Simon & His Camera Simon & His Camera / Foter / CC BY-ND

Musc Ravageur is a big ole sex musk with a leer on its face. Luca Turin says it’s more flashy than good, and I’d agree, but then again, I don’t think Musc Ravageur takes itself all that seriously to begin with. It’s a musk with bedroom eyes and an Adam’s apple.

The more I wear it, the more I think of it as the male equivalent of Shalimar.  It’s a big-boned oriental at heart, a crude, deconstructed version of the older versions of Shalimar extrait – all rude body musks, thick vanilla, and butter-like tonka. Objectionably rich, and quite pungent in parts. KEEP ON READING

If You Go Down to the Woods Today: A Round-Up of Good Woods

in Reviews by
It\'s 4:20 at the Teddy Bear Picnic Kristine Kristan / Foter / CC BY-NC-ND

Omer Pekji is one hell of a talented perfumer. I have been working my way through his pack of samples since March, and even though there are only five of them, they are the kind of perfumes you have to take your time with. Not because they are inaccessible – far from it – but because each of the perfumes is such a clear statement on each of the categories he has taken on (woods, incense, aquatic, leather, and oriental) that it forces you to think about everything the perfumer must have included and excluded on his way to finish the perfume. KEEP ON READING

Perfume shopping in the twilight zone-and a giveaway

in Reviews by

image

I’m an online perfume shopping type of person. I mean where else do you get to lounge around in tatty but comfortable pajamas, sip on your favorite Pinot Noir and at the same time buy some of the most wonderful fragrances the world has to offer? Efficiency and convenience at its best. Sure, it’s low on the glamour factor and the human interaction, but in some cases, like the one described below, those are better avoided anyways.

My latest attempt at perfume shopping in a bricks and mortar store happened during a little weekend getaway to Milan, a city known for luxurious designer shops, famous opera shows at the wonderful La Scala Theater, the biggest Gothic cathedral in the world, the San Siro Stadium, some of the biggest international fairs in Europe and Leonardo da Vinci’s Last Supper painting.
I wanted for this trip to be simple, as it was only a three nights stay and one of the days was going to be spent at the International Furniture Fair, a stunning display of craftsmanship, clever designs, opulent materials and incredible colors. We even spotted Roberto Cavalli there, who very graciously accepted to have his photo taken.The blue and white silk lined wardrobe created by his brand was one of the most striking things I’ve seen at the fair and totally lust worthy.
So yes simplicity was the key word. We didn’t queue for seeing Leonardo’s painting, didn’t even try to visit the designer shops, and we had only one perfume shop on the list, in stark contrast to the Paris perfume pilgrimage I submitted my better half to nearly three years ago. He lived to tell the tale but just barely. KEEP ON READING

Parfumerie Generale Coze: Finger Licking Good

in Reviews by

Today is the birthday of Pierre Guillaume (he of Parfumerie Generale fame), and I would just like to say two things. First of all, joyeaux anniversaire! And also, thank you so much for making Coze.

Coze smells like someone picked up the nicest smelling things in the world – coffee, pepper, dark chocolate, hash resin, patchouli – and shoved them into a perfume. Well, that’s not entirely true, because that implies that this perfume was a happy accident, whereas, in truth, Coze is a great example of a perfume that pulls off a complicated balancing act without alerting the wearer to its complex underpinnings. In other words, it’s a smart, quasi-gourmand whose genius occurs to you when you choose to look at it closely. KEEP ON READING

Pin It on Pinterest

GET OUR FREE EBOOK NOW!

Subscribe to our Newsletter and grab your  free eBook copy of "PERFUME 101 - From Beginner to Aficionado" by Fragrance Daily Author Claire Vukcevic now!

Fragrance Daily eBook Cover

YAY! You subscribed successfully and became part of the growing FD cult!

Go to Top