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Waters + Wild: Cedarwood & Cognac

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One of the reasons that I enjoy my frequent travels to Ireland is the olfactory delights that greet me on the Emerald isle, particularly in the west of the country, where earth meets water meets sky on a daily basis. The lush green grasses, ferns and trees that can be found from its rich soil, the salty and ‘seaweedy’ air emanating from the rocky or sandy coastline, and the water that permeates absolutely everything (having once asked how frequently it rains in Ireland, I was told one can experience each of the four seasons every day in Ireland…although all of them involve rain).

Carner Barcelona Cuirs and Nasomatto Black Afgano: Are they similar enough?

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I’ve been hearing of these comparisons between Cuirs and Black Afgano for years. With Black Afgano being a LEGENDARY fragrance in its own right and one that I quite love, I figured it was time to give Carner Barcelona’s Cuirs a shot. Once I received Cuirs I gave it a week of testing, fully wearing, that left me with very little to be discovered. Having already reviewed Black Afgano over the years, it’s refreshing to be able to dissect it again.

What makes them similar?

Well, I want to say all around smell, because you’re immediately reminded by Black Afgano’s existence the second you spray on Cuirs. Upon initial spray, both parties leave you with a thick, balmy aroma. As far as notes, I get a blast of woods from both; burnished sandalwood, oud, smoked-incense, resinous balsams, neither of them having a smooth introduction. I think that’s where the similarities stop, just beyond overall vibe in the opening, Cuirs sticks to that linear script for its life on my skin, while Afgano has another three or four layers it weaves through. KEEP ON READING

Short olfactive-attention span? Give these a sniff!

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Small disclaimer, I have a very minute, undocumented case of ADHD. It rears its little head in the most obscure facets of my life, like, my sense of smell. I love fragrances, obviously, but what I do not love, are fragrances that tend to be linear. No matter how beautiful. No matter how masterfully executed. If any fragrance smells the same at hour two and hour five, ten or even thirty-six on my skin, :cough: Bois d”Argent :/cough: then I might as well wear lotion pour le corps from aisle 13. KEEP ON READING

Mini Guide for the Land of Tuberose Perfumes

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Soon in this part of world the tuberose will bloom again and while waiting for this narcotic moment the idea of writing about some interesting tuberose perfumes came to my mind.Among the floral notes tuberose is the most contradicting, being made out of green floral freshness and carnal opulence, of daylight radiance and darkness of the deep night when it blooms and haunts perfumery for more than four decades

.During all these years tuberose note have passionate fans and detractors, you either love or hate this smell, there is no middle way. Those hating this scent frequently complain about that feeling that you have smelling for the first time a tuberose perfume: it’s like a big fist hitting your face, a smell that appears sickly and cloying for them but, in the meantime, a tuberose fan smelling the same perfume will be on cloud number nine and will describe its intensity , sensuality and creaminess. There are not so many notes in perfumery that have a reference scent like tuberose has. All tuberose perfumes are compared with Fracas, golden standard of this note, a beautiful composition but for me wearing it means “Mission Impossible”.I’ll try to refer more to tuberose centered releases from the last decade that are more or less close to the standard in no particular order in this mini guide for tuberose perfumes. KEEP ON READING

Wardasina: Tumble(Weed) Dry

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Wardasina by Sospiro has been garnering a lot of attention recently, especially on Facebook fragrance groups, where it is frequently mentioned as the ne-plus-ultra of rose fragrances for men. Early reviews are saying that it is the best rose and tobacco combination on the market. Since I am on a bit of a rose quest at the moment, and I like masculine-leaning notes like tobacco, I ordered a bit to see what it was like.

Well, frankly, I am a little stunned. Wardasina is one of those fragrances that make me scratch my head and wonder if I am smelling the same thing as everyone else. First of all, hats off to anyone who can smell tobacco in this. If it is there at all, it maybe makes a brief appearance as a cherry/almond note in the opening – but I’m not sure. Second, the rose is only really perceptible in the opening notes, and I wouldn’t characterize this as a rose fragrance at all. Neither the delicate note of rose nor the usually robust note of tobacco stand any chance against the real power player of this fragrance, which is an incredibly radiant and super-dry woods accord that dominates the fragrance from top to toe. KEEP ON READING

A new kind of tuberose: Nacre Blanche by Antonio Alessandria

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With hand on my heart I confess I always had, have and will be in love with the distinct smell of the white queen of flowers – the tuberose, or the “harlot of perfumery”as Roja Dove right calls it. Give me the most challenging scent based on a huge tuberose bouquet and I`ll faint…of pleasure.

My most beloved found treasures are the bold Fracas (my first niche perfume) and it`s Petit sweet modern sister, the transparent La Chasse aux Papillons, the sultry Carnal Flower, the sexy Beyond Love by Kilian or the classic beauty Jardins de Bagatelle Guerlain, but there is always place for one more. Or two, or three…

So here I am sniffing the whole day my sample of Nacre Blache that I picked up because of the promising official presentation and trying to resume in words the mystery of this scent. KEEP ON READING

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