Niche Fragrance Magazine

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Naomi Goodsir

Fan Dance

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If you spend any time at all on the perfume forums, you have may seen a few posts posing one of the essential philosophical questions of our age: "What is a stripper perfume?" At first, I had great hopes of learning about unusual, seductive perfumes in these threads...

Harmony and Me–We’re Pretty Good Company

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Parisian Niche House The Harmonist Opens Doors in Feng Shui-Compliant Los Angeles

It was with some trepidation—and excitement—that I entered the beautiful Los Angeles boutique of The Harmonist, a Paris-based niche perfume house using the ancient Asian concept of Feng Shui as its creative brief.  I mean, I am a middle-aged Aries with a penchant for powerhouse masculines and an inability to tolerate Bikram yoga—just how harmonious am I going to get?

The boutique is in trendy Melrose Place (the only other location besides their Avenue George V flagship) and is truly beautiful.  Sleek, pared down luxury completely realized in black and white (the Yin and Yang about which much more is to come) only relieved by the green of counter tops in precious malachite and plants growing in hanging glass terraria.  The Paris-trained staff, led by the amiable and knowledgeable Erasmo and Bobbi (also in pared down, luxurious black and white attire), patiently take you through the complex, yet simple, inspiring world that is The Harmonist. KEEP ON READING

Iris is Coming: Prepare for Iris

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This installment in my Iris Quest (see Part I here) is loosely based around the type of iris fragrances that will eat you for breakfast or at least force your nose down into carroty roots like a stern school mistress trying to train a puppy not to poop on the floor.

Iris Silver Mist by Serge Lutens

This is not perfume.

It is either art or a form of water boarding, but it’s not a perfume.


Iris Silver Mist teeters on a tightrope between aching beauty and ugly brutality for much of its duration. The first blast out of the gate is of the purest iris root note I have ever smelled – it an exhalation of pure luxury. KEEP ON READING

Comme des Garcons Black: Home Fires Burning

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Reaching through the smoke images – Photography images

I left Ireland for Bosnia when I was 22, without so much as a backwards glance. Over the following 16 years when people asked me if I missed home, I would always be startled and say yes – automatically – but it wasn’t quite true. I just never thought of home as being anywhere other than wherever I was right then.

I never realized that the gene for “home” was carried deep within my DNA until one dark night when I stepped out of a snow-stalled car into the deserted crossroads of a tiny village in Bosnia and was hit in the solar plexus by a waft of smoke from a coal fire. KEEP ON READING

Three Amouage Masculines: Memoir Man, Journey Man, and Jubilation XXV

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Omar Sharif. Movie-Fan / Foter / CC BY-NC-SA

Jubilation XXV: Fit for a king, they say – and in this case, they mean it quite literally, because the Sultan of Oman frequently gifts bottles of Jubilation and Gold to other monarchs when they pay official state visits to his sultanate. And if I were a visiting monarch, I too would be delighted to find a bottle of this resting on my pillow.

Jubilation is a richly spiced oriental that has the best of everything in it – an opulent Frankincense, jammy fruit (orange and blackberries), warm pie spices, a hot, smoking oud, and a superbly salty musk and ambergris reconstruction extending it all at the tailbone. The opening, in particular, has a berry and dark chocolate effect going on that’s interesting (I assume it’s the patchouli interacting with the fruit and incense).  It’s very balsamic, from the myrrh, opoponax, and Frankincense, smoky thanks to the labdanum and guaiacum, and very sweet – almost syrupy sweet actually – thanks to the big dollops of honey.  Sweet enough for a woman (this woman included). I love it. KEEP ON READING

Italian style-the Angela Ciampagna line of fragrances:an overview

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Let’s talk numbers today: there are at least 360 niche perfume brands on the market presently, as opposed to about 100 less than 10 years ago, according to a press article published on the Reuters website in 2014.
The competition is getting hotter by the day and any newly launched brands would better have a very coherent and believable artistic statement behind and some damn good perfumes in order to establish a successful presence on the market. Brilliant customer service and an engaging online presence are playing an important part too.
Consumers are also getting more discerning thanks to the increasing amount of information available, especially the customers that are active buyers of niche perfumes, a term that I dislike for his pretentious connotations, but it’s sort of universally used and accepted so in lack of a better alternative it’ll have to do. KEEP ON READING

Masque Fragranze Montecristo,Tango and Russian Tea-a modern hedonist triptych

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One of the perfume lines I was most excited to discover this year is Masque Fragranze. The buzz around it, the wonderful reviews made the waiting even harder, but now that I finally have samples of Tango, Montecristo and Russian Tea, the waiting is over. I can take the tops off those little vials, spray and let the scents tell their stories.
And I sprayed and waited to be moved, and waited and sniffed furiously at my skin, gathering the molecules up my nose, into the brain, but my soul didn’t want to react. And not because the fragrances are not good, in fact quite the opposite. Intelligent and very well blended, perfect images of perfect storylines, shiny and modern, the epitome of cool, but all I felt like saying was “It’s not you, is me”, the common excuse of anybody wanting to extricate themselves out of an unwanted display of affection. And indeed, how else can I justify not loving this perfumes?It must be my twisted little psyche, that even surprises myself at times reacting positively to stuff I never thought I’d like, and being perfectly cold toward things that seemed to send all the right signals.
And the Masque Fragranze brand certainly did send all the right signals: interesting concept (the whole line is composed like an opera, out of different acts and tableaus, each perfume created to be the same as a theater masque, helping the wearer to get into a specific role or atmosphere), talented perfumers, beautiful, elegant packaging,va lot of positive, even glowing reviews in the blogosphere.
I remember well the day I tried them for the first time: a crisp, sunny afternoon, rays of sunshine streaming brightly through branches and trees in the lovely park in which I sometimes like to go for walks on my work break. It had been a stressful and agitated morning, and I needed to get away from the crowds and have a few moments to myself. The perfect time to try the perfumes I’d been dreaming about for months. KEEP ON READING

Fumerie Turque: The Morning after the Night Before

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Imagine a gentlemen’s club. It’s that grey hour before dawn, between the last of the stragglers leaving the bar and the first of the cleaners moving in. Ash from Sobranie cigarettes has been mashed into the deep pile carpets, there are sticky rings of cognac on the bar, and look, there’s Peter O’ Toole holed up in the corner, regaling the cloakroom girls with anecdotes from his time on the set of Lawrence of Arabia. He is smoking a cigarette, but his hands are shaking, and although the girls are too polite to say, at some point during the night, it is quite clear that he has pissed himself. He still looks fabulous, though. He looks like he was born in and will die in that slim white suit and those grimy leather gloves. KEEP ON READING

I don’t belong to the leather enthusiastics and this is my view on Cuir Velours…

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Nami Goodsir - Cuir Velours

Nami Goodsir - Cuir Velours

Let me begin by saying that I don`t belong to the leather enthustiastics group, as I am more inclined to favor a drop of gorgeous flower nectar to a harsh leather accord. The only straightforeward leathery scent one can find in my wardrobe is Bottega Venetta. I used Armani Cuir Amethyst in the past, but gave it away in exchange for a great floriental from Rancé.

But I never gave up the hope finding a nice soft and easy to use leathery scent, so I`ve searched a bit and finally decided to give Cuir Velour a try. And I`m glad I reached it. Cuir Velours is a very well made scent that, as it`s name implies, provides a great amount of soft suede note. It feels as if you are constantly enveloped in a suave aroma of high quality suede, very fine and cozy. In the first minutes it`s a bit boozy-sweet offering accords of rum and dried fruits, than it moves on to a marvelous mixture of flowers and balsamic notes that reproduce accurately the best suede you can imagine. I also get some kind of cosmetic scent, like the way the interior of a leather bag smells when accidently my face powder spills all over the rest of the items inside. The perfume lingers very well on skin, creating an enjoyable skin-scent with hours gone by, and towards the end it smells exactley like my skin after I remove my toffee coloured mini velour dress.

I think gents could wear this too, it`s totally not a gender oriented scent. For myself I imagine it going great in colder days or nights, suitable for any occasion that requires high-heels, a leather jacket and a bold red lipstick. This is full bottle worthy for me.


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