Fragrance Daily

Niche Fragrance Reviews By True Aficionados

Fragrance Daily - Niche Perfume Reviews

Tag: L’Artisan Parfumeur

You may think it’s strange that a sane woman in her 50s has a schoolgirl fondness for enormous horses, but bear with me. The handsome fellow in the photo is Gilbert, half Shire, half racehorse, all character. He is 16 hands high, which is too tall for me to be able to see over his saddle and I’m no munchkin;…

As the weather turns from the beautiful warm summer we’ve enjoyed in Wales this year, and we move towards what I hope will be a gloriously colourful autumn, this week I felt a bit stuck. Mugginess had me stymied. You may have noticed that my fragrance choices are very much dictated by the weather. I’m lucky not to work in…

For many people who like heady, strong florals – rose, tuberose, violets – linden and lilacs can seem like the “other white meat”, in other words, second-string players to more forceful or more characterful stars. Ask any one to describe what a Bulgarian rose otto smells like, or tuberose absolute, and words such as beefy, rich, and buttery come spilling…

I love tea. Whether it is the artisanal blends, supermarket tea bags, or fancy Mariage-Frères sachets, I adore the delicate fragrances of tea and teahouses. Unfortunately, though lots of perfumes in the niche market are considered “tea” fragrances, only a few actually smell like tea or evoke any sort of associations with the drink. Here are my picks for the best of the tea…

I’m having a violet fixation. And an iris one. And it’s only getting worse. As time goes by, rich, powdery, wet-earthy fragrances centred around flowers like violet, iris, mimosa, osmanthus and any other ones with a vaguely leathery, animalic facet are the only ones I feel like buying. It all started with Une Fleur de Cassie, a shameless mimosa, continuing…

For the fourth and final installment of in my Iris Quest (see Parts I, II, and III here), I’m focusing on all the iris fragrances that I (a) either forgot to include the first time round, (b) features iris not as the main player but as one important element in a larger whole – iris as part of an incense, woody, or oriental composition,…

Wow, are we at Volume V already? I ain’t finished yet, ladies and gents. I might, however, be getting, if not exactly sick of rose, then a wee bit short-tempered with it. Before this frantic round of testing all the rose samples in my stash (see Volumes I, II, III, and IV), I had been inclined to go easy on…

Is anyone here just a teeny tiny bit tired of the rose-oud combination? Don’t get me wrong – there are days when I still crave that wonderful combination of smoky, sour oud and sweet rose. But increasingly, I am turning to oud fragrances that either do away with the rose part of the equation, or bury the oud in dark…

There are so many new niche operation springing up around the stinkosphere these past few years, I’ve basically given up keeping track or even caring anymore. The law of diminishing returns applied to trends means that as the hype grows, the products that result from it is usually pretty crap. This is particularly true in the niche, or rather Nu-Niche™…

I wish I didn’t like this so much. It’s beyond my budget (like, totally beyond my budget). But even worse, smelling this, I got that sickening feeling you get when you invest $$$$ in an iPhone4 just two days before the iPhone5 launches. Damn that Betrand Duchaufour if he hasn’t improved upon about three or four of his previous perfumes…

When I bought Safran Troublant two weeks ago, it became my fourth Olivia Giacobetti fragrance, after Dzing!, Passage d’ enfer and Tea for Two. Lady Giacobetti can’t put her foot wrong as far as I’m concerned: her style is impeccable, elegant and a little bit quirky at the same time. Her imaginative, intelligent, amusing and emotional work  is both very…

esti- / Foter / CC BY-NC-SA   Oud Satin Mood by Maison Francis Kurkdijan is a big, fat Middle Eastern sweet, the kind that is doused in rose syrup, thickened with salep, aromatized with mastic, sprinkled with rosewater and pistachios, and then, finally, dusted with a thick layer or five of powdered sugar so thick your teeth leaves indents in…

I’m not normally that into florals – especially the white kind – but I have to admit that there is something about the summer heat that is making me crave them right now. The hot sun seems to activate their lurid, blowsy side and to dim their rather prim, pretty aspects, and this is an effect I like.  So, despite…

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