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Mazzolari Vetyver: Vetiver as a Bete Noire

in Reviews/Thoughts by

This almost drove me mad. I sprayed a bit of it on at night before bed, and then promptly forgot about it. Then the next morning, I smelled something really good on my arm – like a cross between the soapy sandalwood from the far drydown of Slumberhouse’s Vikt and the horsey, slightly sweaty leather from Chanel’s Cuir de Russie. I spent half of the next day rummaging through my decants and samples drawer furiously trying to remember which sample it was that smelled so damned good. When I finally figured out what it was, I have to admit I was amazed. Because the heart of this particular fragrance was so off-putting to me I could not believe that something so good had come out of it. KEEP ON READING

Paradise in a bottle: Songes by Annick Goutal

in Reviews by


Do you remember which was your very first niche scent? I do. This month I celebrate symbolically 4 years since everything started. The madness, I mean. One curiosity satisfied, then another and another, and so my passion for niche perfumes grew up becoming a never-ending search for perfumes that evoke emotions, far away places, perfumes that shape perfectly my moods and dreams. It all started after I found an article about perfumes connected to different destinations. The girly bottle of Songes tighten with a ribbon full of small golden stars captured immediately my attention. It was described a dreamy tropical scent. Oh, I had to try it! Short after that, I heard for the first time also about Fracas. I needed that one too and so on. My first step into niche realms was not shy at all. It wasn`t about one scent, but six. My God! Six blind bought bottles at once, no kidding. Of course I was naive and impatient and did not order samples first, I needed the full bottles as soon as possible as if it was the end of the world. To name them: Fracas and Visa by Piguet, Caron Montaigne and Bellodgia, Annick Goutal Songes and Lalique Amethyst. I briefly searched some reviews about them before pressing the order bottom, but as much as I tried to imagine how they actually smell I couldn`t. I didn`t had much experience behind regarding the notes, so I waited them to arrive with great expectations. It could turned out to be a total disaster, but fortunately it ended (almost) very good.

I immediately fell madly in love with Visa, which continues to be my favorite scent of all time, I felt myself positively overwhelmed by Fracas which I proudly wear mostly in warm temperatures (yesss, that indolic tuberose blooms erotically in summer), Montaigne was very plush and elegant, Bellodgia made me a bit confuse, it seemed too anachronic, powdery and melancholic, but at the same it showed me a different perspective compared to all mainstream scents I knew untill then, so I saw a good reason to keep it, and Amethyst proved to be such a joyful grown-up fruity with a perfect balance between tart and soft notes. KEEP ON READING

A scent that collects memories: Portrait of a Lady by Frederic Malle

in Reviews by


We had a bad, very bad first encounter. I rejected it completely, but after some time it became one of my top five soul mate scents. A few years ago as I had the chance to explore the fragrances of Fraderic Malle for the first time, I remained disappointed I couldn`t get the hype around this scent. The rose I was looking for seemed way too much dominated by a strong mixture of incense and patchouli, two of my no-go ingredients, well, at least when both are so equally overexposed as in this scent. This is how I percived it in the past, but luckily we met again in other circumstances sometime later when I recived a miniature of Portrait of a Lady as a gift when I indulged myself with the ethereal En Passant for my birthday, so it was the perfect occasion to explore it again.

And then the miracle happened. KEEP ON READING

Mazzolari Lui: Raging Beast or Purring Pussycat?

in Reviews by

beast grafiti

Mazzolari Lui is crazy sexy good. Yes, ok, technically it’s a men’s perfume (“Lui” means “Him” in Italian) and if you read the often hilarious reviews for this online, you will see an awful lot of male reviewers using words such as “virile”, “masculine” and “testosterone” which is akin to putting up big, neon signs reading, “Wimmen Folk Turn Back Now!” and pissing around it to demarcate the territory.

One review in particular on Basenotes had me writing to my friend, Sjorn, at Essenza Nobile, begging for a sample of Mazzolari Lui straight away. Written by a guy called Montagne, it opens with possibly the best first sentence ever written about a perfume: KEEP ON READING

Black Saffron: Fruit Leather with Volume Control Problems

in Reviews by

Black Saffron by Byredo

Black Saffron is not what I expected at all. In fact, when my nose was hit with a burst of fruit syrup notes, I had to check the box that my sample came in twice. Yep – the words “black” and “saffron” were definitely there. But before I even had a chance to reach up to scratch my head in puzzlement, the scent did a crazy volte face. What I smelled was….. wood shavings in a heated, covered horse-riding arena. How odd! This eventually settled into a fine dusting of sawdust that coated the main accord of the scent – fruity violet leather – giving the entire fragrance an unusual kind of musky, ashy “mouthfeel”. Although I assume the dustiness is due to the saffron, I was unable to detect any of that spice’s usual medicinal aspects. In fact, despite the presence of both saffron and juniper berries, I was unable to pick up much spiciness at all. Here, they seem to manifest themselves more as a textural component (ash, dust) than as a flavoring agent. KEEP ON READING

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