Fragrance Daily

Niche Fragrance Reviews By True Aficionados

Fragrance Daily - Niche Perfume Reviews

Tag: James Heeley

If there is one example of the musical arts that to me encapsulates the full majesty of the sea, in all its splendor and glory, it can be found in the opening bars of Ralf Vaughn Williams’ first symphony – his ‘Sea Symphony’ (you can hear those initial magnificent bars asking us to ‘Behold – the Sea’ at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BT0BlZK7lgA). But…

I’m just kidding about the Red Wedding bit. If you’re currently preparing for a wedding (yours or someone else’s), then of course we hope it turns out much better than it did in The Game of Thrones. Still, it never hurts to come prepared. A good iris perfume, if chosen wisely, can be just the steel dagger in your pants…

The term “chypre” seems to be a rather fluid one these days. Technically, in order to be classified as a chypre, a fragrance should contain bergamot, labdanum, and oakmoss. But you can drive yourself crazy trying to sort perfumes into chypre and non-chypre categories, checking off notes lists, and so on. In general, the nose can recognize a chypre right…

Is anyone here just a teeny tiny bit tired of the rose-oud combination? Don’t get me wrong – there are days when I still crave that wonderful combination of smoky, sour oud and sweet rose. But increasingly, I am turning to oud fragrances that either do away with the rose part of the equation, or bury the oud in dark…

The latest fragrance from Masque Fragranze, Romanza, is neither easy to describe nor to wear. That doesn’t mean it’s not utterly brilliant, because it is. It features narcissus, but instead of wrapping it in sunshiney beeswax (Ostara) or sweetening it with rose (Lumiere Noire Pour Femme), Romanza plays up all its ugly, bitter facets, resulting in a fragrance that is a real…

For their latest release Heeley Perfumes of Paris return to antiquity relishing the days of the great Phoenician civilization who existed along the mediterranean coastal areas of Syria, Lebanon and Northern Israel. Although it is a tributary fragrance to an civilization that existed thousands of years ago, today it is an once in a lifetime classic incense masterpiece in that attempts…

We now come to the third and final installment of my explorations of Editions de Perfums Frederic Malle, focusing today on a selection of the brand’s feminines. As before, I attempted to provide balanced commentary on each of these fragrances, and have tested each of them a few times on both my skin and a woman’s skin. Enjoy: Carnal Flower (Dominique…

All exclusive lines need a good leather on which to hang their hat. The Chanel Les Esclusifs have their famous Cuir de Russie, the Dior Privee their Cuir Cannage, and now Hermessence by Hermes have theirs: Cuir d’Ange. Cuir d’Ange, meaning Angel Skin, is the tenth, and probably Jean-Claude Ellena’s last contribution to the exclusive Hermessence line by Hermes. And,…

It’s impossible to talk about Maria Candida Gentile’s Sideris without a smile. If Tinkerbell and the Archangel Gabriel got together to make a perfume, Sideris is what they would come up with. Two things are important to mention here – radiance and scale. In terms of radiance, Maria Candida Gentile has somehow managed to take the heaviest and stickiest substances…

(From a conversation in three parts.) Jim: Originally my plan was to write about a beautiful trio of fragrances from Frederic Malle. Geranium Pour Monsieur, French Lover, Bigarade Concentree. A Ropion, Ellena, and Bourdon. Absolutely stunning, provocative and almost ephemeral fragrances. But something else in my bag of samples came up, and I just had to write about it. My…

Jim: This is an aquatic of truly natural nature. Something that I’ve spent a great deal of time searching for, an accurate depiction of walking the shorelines of the sea. Last month I walked several hundred miles up the Oregon coast. My nose bombarded everyday by many smells. The salt in the air. The dirty smell of brine and hot…

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