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J.F. Schwarzlose Berlin

Blind dates with scents

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A few days ago when I was looking for a sample of Molinard to do a review, I couldn`t find it in the drawer among the rest of samples and for the moment it was very frustrating. Years and years of big curiosity regarding so many interesting scents ended in accumulating extremely many samples, so I finally decided that it`s time to start organising those poor ones somehow and test them again, one by one.

But then…a crazy idea came to my mind. Why not doing blind tests with some of them and write some “raw” reviews? I wondered how my nose and my whole being would react at scents if I deliberately chose to undress them of all that jazz and get straight into the SCENT. KEEP ON READING

Berlin never smelled so beautiful: J.F. Schwarzlose Berlin Trance

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I discovered Trance while searching for an unusual rose fragrance aiming to find something completely different from the classic interpretations of this flower and when I first smelled this magical potion on my skin I had that “OMG that`s it” moment because Trance let me literally speechless. The German brand J.F. Schwarzlose Berlin launched their collection in 2012, but the history of the house goes far beyond this date. The initial business was a drugstore called Schwarzlose Söhne founded in 1856 by Joachim Friederich Schwarzlose, a piano-maker for his children. After some time two of them stepped out of the business deciding to concentrate on perfume making. Their fragrances, soaps and powders soon became very popular not only in Germany, but also in the rest of Europe, Asia and Australia having huge success for many decades until they closed their doors in 1976. They offered outstanding and daring compositions back then and as I see they keep on doing good stuff also today. In 2012 the company arose from it`s own ashes thanks to the perfume bottle designer Lutz Herrmann who, together with the perfumeur Véronique Nyberg and the marketing communication expert Tamas Tagscherer revitalised the brand and started to fascinate the perfume world once again with their new fabulous creations which are reflecting the Berlin of the present. The series encompasses now five unisex powerful compositions some inspired by old formulas and some new. In my opinion their scents are actually quite masculine, but somehow I find Trance to be very easy for me to wear.

Véronique Nyberg created an outstanding mixture for Trance. It opens up glittery bright and a ted bitterish from a marvelous emerald note of absinthe absolue. I remember Hemmingway calling this psychoactive beverage a “brain-warming, idea-changing liquid alchemy” which is truly what this scent achieves to do, setting your mood for a night out in Berlin. After the monochromatic crispy herbal start settles down a little bit, a fresh rose becomes more visible. The flower is so beautiful to the point of seeming artificial, or better said the rose has been idealized here, taken out of a fantasy as I cannot remember smelling such a stunning one in nature… or maybe I perceive it that way under the hypnotizing effect of absinthe? It`s a glowing pink crystal clear note of rose with canned sugar soaked in absinthe sprinkled over the petals. Marvelous! The scent evolves in slow motion and after some hours it touches the dark and mysterious oud territory, which on contrary to it`s well known behavior as a baritonal leading note, here is like an iridescent veil that caresses and envelopes gently the purity of the rose with a woody shade, assuring at the same time the composition with an intriguing depth. So it`s just enough oud to make you aware of it and to give an extra oomph, but it never overshadows the rest of the ingredients. Usually I have highly difficult time with oud based scents, but Trance would`t be a complete work of art without the presence of it. In the base the rose still has that anise-tinged scent and continues to shine even in the dark presence of the oud, like a radiant fairy with neon-pink wings that glitters in the woods. The scent spreads on a large radius around me and triggers compliments like crazy. I think I have to print some cards with the name of this juice to handle everyone who asks me what I`m wearing. Challenging, memorable, sensual, Trance encapsulates very well that unique artistic city vibe of Berlin that I had the chance to experience some years ago and it amazes me with every wear. Such scents are precious and I hope this house will come up with more great fragrances in the feature. I love you guys!

Perfumeur: Véronique Nyberg KEEP ON READING

Rausch or About Creating Addiction

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My first encounter with Rausch was almost one year ago and honestly, after several trials I’m still much intrigued. If somebody will ask me right in this moment to define Rausch it will be a difficult exercise but what I can easily say that it’s an intoxicating fragrance.

Veronique Nyberg together with the guys from J.F. Schwarzlose Berlin really succeeded in creating this effect. In a very good way!

So, what are the consequences of direct exposure to Rausch? This smoky dark ambery creature with some vanilla/oud traces in its veins which trigger a long term addiction and, as far as I know, no antidote to Rausch exposure was created up to this moment. KEEP ON READING

Treffpunkt 8 Uhr – J.F. Schwarzlose Berlin

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Treffpunkt 8 UhrBerlin – a city with enormous history. From being all the way up there to crashing down completely to working itself all the way up again. A city that used to be devided and completely surrounded by another country. Berlin is special, eccentric and colourful and the same is promised about J.F. Schwarzlose’s fragrances (“eccentric, extravagant and as iridescent as Berlin”).

‘Treffpunkt 8 Uhr’ is an interpretation of a Schwarzlose classic (unfortunately, I couldn’t find out which one), starting with mango and ginger before adding sage as the heart note and vetiver as the base. While this doesn’t sound very exiting, the fragrance is quite lovely. I wouldn’t call it unusual or eccentric, but it’s a nice fresh mix with a lovely vetiver dry down and good longevity. Perfect for the office, but too light and close to the skin for much more. The company describes their fragrances as “confident, cosmopolitan, contemporary and racy” but even though I agree with contemporary, confident and racy ‘Treffpunkt’ is not. KEEP ON READING

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