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Helmut Lang

Atelier Cologne’s Gold Leather: Fruity Goodness

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You are slumped on a Chesterfield sofa, cradling a tumbler of Bacardi in your hands.  You have just binged your way through a whole packet of Jaffa Cakes. Life is good. How do you smell?  Even better!  Atelier Cologne’s Gold Leather summons up exactly this image, with some plum and woods thrown into the mix.

Christophe Cervasel and Sylvie Ganter, creators and founders of Atelier Cologne, met in New York in 2006 and realized that they shared a passion for classic Eau de Cologne. Together, they created the first fragrance house entirely dedicated to cologne—colognes so special that they are meant to be worn as pure perfumes. Since then, they have become darlings of the niche world, creating high quality, well-blended fragrances each centered around a core note (vetiver, vanilla, neroli, etc.). KEEP ON READING

Sacred Cow

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Sometimes, there are fragrances that are so universally admired and revered and that cast such long shadows, that they are almost impossible to review.  Who, for example, is qualified to review and deconstruct, say, Bach’s Double Violin Concerto or Picasso’s Guernica and find them wanting?  Who would not feel presumptuous to declare them fine?

The dictionary tells us that a sacred cow is an idiom that represents an idea, custom, or institution held, especially unreasonably, to be above criticism (with reference to the Hindus’ respect for the cow as a sacred animal).   Jean Kerleo’s 1980 Patou Pour Homme is a sacred cow if ever there was one. KEEP ON READING

From Bedroom to Nursery: Three Maurice Roucel Musks

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Something Can Be Sympathy by Simon & His Camera Simon & His Camera / Foter / CC BY-ND

Musc Ravageur is a big ole sex musk with a leer on its face. Luca Turin says it’s more flashy than good, and I’d agree, but then again, I don’t think Musc Ravageur takes itself all that seriously to begin with. It’s a musk with bedroom eyes and an Adam’s apple.

The more I wear it, the more I think of it as the male equivalent of Shalimar.  It’s a big-boned oriental at heart, a crude, deconstructed version of the older versions of Shalimar extrait – all rude body musks, thick vanilla, and butter-like tonka. Objectionably rich, and quite pungent in parts. KEEP ON READING

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