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État Libre d’Orange

Histoires de Parfums Irrévérent and Outrecuidant

in Reviews/Thoughts by

Irrévérent and Outrecuidant are two of three new releases by the French brand, Histoires de Parfums (the other one is Prolixe, which was unavailable when I was buying samples). I’m always interested in sampling the new releases from Histoires de Parfums, as it was one of the first niche houses I loved, but in the last few years, I just haven’t been able to keep up. Luckily, while browsing a French site, I spotted samples of the newest Histoires de Parfums fragrances and just jumped on it. And I’m glad I did, because both are pretty darned great. KEEP ON READING

Amouage Opus X – A Story of Blood, Violins, & Metal

in Reviews by

 

Slumbering my way down the line of modern Amouage releases, I tripped over Opus X and was jolted awake. Not rose, I thought, but rhubarb and custard sweets, with a green note so acid that it could strip the enamel from my teeth and the protective lining from my tongue. Amazing – superb! A metallic, oxidized rose that will either slit you or crumble away into dried blood flakes.

The convoluted Amouage back story makes sense this time – a 1681 violin maker loses his wife in childbirth, and sobbing, he rubs her blood into the rosin of the violin he is making so as to allow some part of her to live on forever. The story, told in the 1998 film, “Red Violin,” has the violin passing from generation to generation, causing sorrow wherever it goes. KEEP ON READING

Iris Quest: The Beginning

in Reviews by

Chandler Burr writes that iris is “liquid good taste” and that description has stuck in my mind when thinking about, and wearing iris fragrances. I am not a natural lover of the note, but lately I’ve been charmed by the silvery elegance it brings to any fragrance, as well as by its ability to manifest itself in a myriad of ways ranging from violet, leather, vegetable roots, cosmetic powder, wet earth, metal, rising damp, and even (disturbingly) dirty, unwashed hair. Depending on what notes iris is matched to and what materials have been used to recreate the smell of either the iris root or petals, iris can mean a hundred different things. KEEP ON READING

Etat Libre d’Orange Like This

in Reviews by

A slow burn, this perfume. I’ve had a sample of it for a year, and despite many tests, it’s only recently that Like This has truly gelled for me. A “meh” to “yeah” progression, I guess. Although I smelled everything I was supposed to – the pumpkin, the ginger, the tangerines, the immortelle, the whiskey – the lines between the notes in Like This always seemed blurred and fuzzy, like everything melted down into a big pot of pumpkin soup.

Then I realized two things. First, that there is a sort of charm to having all the notes gleam in an orange and gold register. It’s a deliberate choice, not a mistake. The soft ochres and burnt siennas of the notes are there to provide a tight, muted symphony of voices all in the same range rather than to feature the depths and heights of a full Wagnerian opera. KEEP ON READING

From the Fragrance Daily Team: Our Favorite Summer Niche Scents and a Giveaway!

in Competition/Team Round Up by
As the Sun Rise Indy Kethdy / Foter / CC BY-NC-SA

Maybe we’re nuts, but when we at Fragrance Daily think about summer wardrobes, we’re not thinking shorts and flip-flops.  I mean, those things are nice and all, but not essential.  No, we’re mentally lining up our citrusy Annick Goutals and clearing space in our fridge for massive bottles of eaux de cologne. Priorities, people – priorities.

Anyway, our latest idea is this: since we love perfume and we love lists and we love you, our dear readers (or at least we like you very strongly indeed), we’ve decided to do a quick whip-round the office and get everybody on the Fragrance Daily writing team to list their top five niche fragrances for summer. KEEP ON READING

Immortelle Beloved: My Top Four Immortelle Fragrances

in Reviews by
Immortelle Tree Quinten Questel / Foter / CC BY-NC-ND

Etat Libre d’Orange Afternoon of a Faun: Afternoon of a Faun muscles its way into the green chypre category with an overall vibe halfway between a drenched forest and a bowl full of crushed iris roots. It’s described as an aromatic, spicy scent on Fragrantica, but actually, it comes off as a scorched-earth chypre. It shouldn’t work. But the contrast of wet, bitter green iris and the dry woods is all kinds of addictive.

I love the way it takes me on a ride every time I put it on. It reminds me somewhat of a vintage No. 19 pure parfum I had from the 1950’s which had turned badly – it shares something of that singed woods and burned coffee smell the parfum had. But in contrast, Afternoon of a Faun smells really good to me. KEEP ON READING

Histoires de Parfums 1740 Marquis de Sade

in Reviews by

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I’m a sex specialist. Sex in perfume I mean. I sniff it from a mile away. That erotic undercurrent that quickens my pulse and widens my eyes’pupils ever so slightly. I can tell you there’s not much of it in Histoires de Parfums 1740 Marquis de Sade, which for the sake of my sanity (I don’t like typing)  I’ll just call 1740 from now on.
Incredible comfort is what you find inside this unassuming perfume bottle, its design reassuringly suggesting the spine of a book. Sometimes I’m tempted to add more Histoires de Parfums bottles to my collection just for the pleasure of seeing them all lovingly aligned, with their promises of scented stories. KEEP ON READING

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