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Estee Lauder

Last Dance: Arquiste’s Ella (2016)

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If you want me to pay attention to a new perfume release, all you need to do is tell me that it is a revival of the chypres of the 1970’s. Ella, a 2016 release from Arquisite designed by Rodrigo Flores-Roux, stakes a forceful claim to this legacy: according to its creators, its sources of inspiration are said to be Armando’s Le Club, Acapulco, Mexico, in December 1978, on a “a sultry night of disco, plunging necklines and champagne-soaked skin.”

Heart of Glass

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I set off to college in 1979 without a single bottle of perfume, if my memory doesn't deceive me. I wish I had known about Jean-Louis Scherrer's first perfume then. I am convinced that my years of youthful exploration and occasional indiscretion would have been even more fun if I had been wearing this perfume. I make up for it by wearing it as often as I can now.

Warm Leatherette

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Do you ever wonder why we seem to be drawn almost instinctively to certain perfume notes and not others? I favor leather notes in my perfumes, but not just any leather will do, as I have come to know. Leather can be one of the most debatable and subjective notes in perfumery, and I believe it is always a learned, not a natural association. Leather perfumes can be plastic, animalic, smoky, powdery, gasolinic, rubbery, spicy, or even meaty. My iconic leather perfume might not smell like leather to you at all.

Roja Dove Diaghilev: Gothic Mitsouko

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This fragrance fascinated me from the distance long before I had the chance to give it a first try. Two years ago while in holiday in France I tested a few perfumes by Roja Dove and remained impressed by their complexity. I remember Enslaved particularly as a smoother, more refined version of the original Habanita and in that very hot summer day two sprays of Enslaved on my shoulders were pure magic. As I walked outside the perfumery I noticed the creaminess of the middle part of Enslaved coming from a mixture of ylang-ylang lighted by woody fresh accents of vetiver. Sadly, Diaghilev was not available there and I always imagined it as a masterpiece, based on so many positive reviews. KEEP ON READING

The Scent of Metal – Silver and Gold – Saskia Diez

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gold_silverHow could something smell if it had a smell at all?

Perfumers have been trying to create their take on scentless objects for a while. These days you can get perfume which lets you smell like a certain university, your own DNA and now silver and gold.

Saskia Diez is an independent jeweler from Germany who decided in 2013 to give a scent to gold and silver. The fragrances were developed together with well know nose Geza Schoen (known from his work for Escentric Molecules, Ormonde Jayne, FCUK). KEEP ON READING

Sotto La Luna by Andy Tauer: Gourmand Gardenia

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Disclaimer: I hate gardenia. So much so I’m not even sure I should be reviewing this fragrance. Gardenia is just too…too. It is so rich and unctuous it always feels like you are gorging yourself on chocolate cake after a five-course dinner. It’s also something of a moving target in perfumery, because since it is impossible to extract essential oil from the flower itself, perfumers either use a dry gardenia extract or mix up a bunch of other oils to get an approximation of the genuine article. KEEP ON READING

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