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By Kilian

By Kilian’s Moonlight in Heaven: Mainstream Mango

in Reviews/Thoughts by

Once in a while, when you have sampled enough fragrances, there comes along a scent that attracts your interest upon first spray. As the juice hits the skin, the opening is promising, and you inhale with eyes closed before letting out a contended sigh. Then, contrary to your expectations, you go about your day, ignoring the fragrance entirely because the fragrance turned out to be boring and forgettable. This was my experience with By Kilian’s Moonlight in Heaven.

The Good

My my, that is one magnificent bottle! Like all By Kilian fragrances, Moonlight in Heaven doesn’t skimp on the presentation. Everything from the packaging to the label and presentation clutch screams luxury and yet does not come across as gauche. The label is tinted blue, which along with the the scent, gives the impression of a humid Asian beach resort in the evening, moonlight glancing off of the tanned shoulders of seaside revelers, delectable fruits and sweet delights adorning silver trays. Moonlight in Heaven gets my highest marks for art direction, which is one area where the By Kilian line excels. KEEP ON READING

Tea Fragrances for Men and Women

in Thoughts by

I love tea. Whether it is the artisanal blends, supermarket tea bags, or fancy Mariage-Frères sachets, I adore the delicate fragrances of tea and teahouses. Unfortunately, though lots of perfumes in the niche market are considered “tea” fragrances, only a few actually smell like tea or evoke any sort of associations with the drink. Here are my picks for the best of the tea (and tea-like) fragrances that can be worn by both men and women:

Tea fragrances:

By Kilian Imperial Tea: This is the most authentic of the tea fragrances. To me this smells like a high quality Chinese jasmine tea. It wears well, is extremely refreshing, and unisex when worn on the skin. Imperial? Not quite. But it’s certainly Tea. KEEP ON READING

Exploring Frederic Malle Samples (Part 2 – Unisex)

in Reviews/Thoughts by

In my previous post, we explored some of the masculine offerings from the wonderful house of Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle. Today we will be exploring a few of the house’s most interesting unisex fragrances. I have sampled each of these extensively and will attempt to provide balanced commentary. These are my impressions:

Cologne Indelebile (Dominique Ropion):

How it smells: Cologne Indelebile is an eau de cologne that actually lasts. Instead of the traditionally fleeting and citrus heavy spritzers that define the genre, Ropion’s creation pairs an intensely floral orange blossom (cut with narcissus) with a blend of musks. Here the musks have significantly more depth than the somewhat flat white musks used in other colognes – it feels like a combination of laundry-clean white musks, something steamy and ozonic (think of the steam note in Penhaligon’s Sartorial), and the tiniest drop of a musk with mild animalic facets. Bright (but fleeting) citrus top cut with mint and a dash of narcissus, floral mid, and musky base. KEEP ON READING

Mini Guide for the Land of Tuberose Perfumes

in Reviews by

Soon in this part of world the tuberose will bloom again and while waiting for this narcotic moment the idea of writing about some interesting tuberose perfumes came to my mind.Among the floral notes tuberose is the most contradicting, being made out of green floral freshness and carnal opulence, of daylight radiance and darkness of the deep night when it blooms and haunts perfumery for more than four decades

.During all these years tuberose note have passionate fans and detractors, you either love or hate this smell, there is no middle way. Those hating this scent frequently complain about that feeling that you have smelling for the first time a tuberose perfume: it’s like a big fist hitting your face, a smell that appears sickly and cloying for them but, in the meantime, a tuberose fan smelling the same perfume will be on cloud number nine and will describe its intensity , sensuality and creaminess. There are not so many notes in perfumery that have a reference scent like tuberose has. All tuberose perfumes are compared with Fracas, golden standard of this note, a beautiful composition but for me wearing it means “Mission Impossible”.I’ll try to refer more to tuberose centered releases from the last decade that are more or less close to the standard in no particular order in this mini guide for tuberose perfumes. KEEP ON READING

A Letter to Kilian Hennessy about Criminal of Love

in Reviews by

Dear Kilian Hennessy,

You are rich and you are beautiful. Your signature look of the white shirt unbuttoned to your navel somehow works for you. You have, I am guessing, unfettered access to all the free cognac you could ever drink. You are also charming, I hear.

But I am angry with you. I’ve just tried the best perfume you’ve made to date – Criminal of Love – and yet, I cannot buy it because you made it exclusive to the Russian market. What the hell, Kilian, what the hell?

But where are my manners? First of all, I should thank you for reaching inside my head and plucking out all the things I had on my private wish list for a rose perfume. I know you know what it smells like, so for those who don’t, I will try to describe it. Right at the opening, there is a slightly fruity rose spiked with cardamom and saffron. The more I wear this, though, I am unsure whether the fruitiness at the top is coming from the Turkish rose you used or if it’s one aspect of the tobacco leaves I am picking up. It is spicy and warm, but a little bit austere. It’s definitely a masculine-leaning rose. Then comes a warm, slightly rubbery incense and tons of damp, moldy patchouli. It kind of smells like the inside of an old church – gloomy, moldy, dusty, slightly smoky from burned incense, and yet at the same time, uplifting. KEEP ON READING

A Journey into Arabian Concentrated Perfume Oils

in Reviews by

Arabian perfume oils, ouds, attars – where to start? For people interested in perfume, it’s like being hungry and knowing there’s a massive box of chocolates on the table. It’s within your reach, the card in the box make them all sound utterly delicious, but you know from bitter experience that some of them are going to be coffee creams (bleuch!) and some of them champagne truffles (Mmmmm). And because it only takes a few chocolates to be fully sated, you’d rather know upfront which ones are the champagne truffles. Right? KEEP ON READING

Perfumes in Short Supply: Loving the Rare, the Discontinued, and the Gone Forever

in Thoughts by

What do you do when you fall in love with a perfume that is discontinued or otherwise unavailable to you (for reasons of cost or limited supply)? Do you spend huge amounts of time and money tracking it down on eBay? Do you beg friends to bring you back exclusive bottles from Tokyo, Paris, and London? Or do you just…..let it go?

I am working very hard at being one of those people who just accepts it and moves on. But damn, it’s hard.

Personally, the way I react to a perfume I love being in short supply depends on the reason behind its unavailability. As far as I can see, there are three main reasons. KEEP ON READING

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