Beaufort London appears in the niche perfume world for the first time with a triptych of eaux de parfums under the collective name “Come Hell or High Water”. Under the creative direction of musician and writer Leo Crabtree, live percussionist of the mega group Prodigy, Beaufort promises a voyage in the darkest waters of British naval history. I can only suppose that whoever the perfumer behind these three innovative creations is, the technical guidelines he was given could only be: “Create a Firestarter!”. How else can I describe the sensation of smelling an entire perfume collection built around the core note of smoke. And I do not mean smoky vetiver, or branded leather. These perfumes smell the real deal: smoke as it rises from the flames of a fire, or to be more precise, from three distinct types of fire. Anyone who has messed around with aroma chemicals they will tell you that smoke essence is an extremely tricky ingredient. It permeates and consumes every other ingredient with a monstrous longevity and tenacity throughout its presence. I was intrigued to see how one could work with this material. Technically I am not sure this classifies as an aroma chemical because the smoke flavouring used in food is simply natural smoke collected in its passage through water. If you have ever tried to cook with liquid smoke you will know that more often than not it turns to be a disaster. Everything ends up smelling like the skin of smoked fish… How does the damn thing hold up in the kitchen of niche perfumery then?
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