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Ann Gerard

Duchaufour’s Recent Roses: Ann Gerard Rose Cut & L’Artisan Parfumeur Rose Privee

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Flowers & Trees
Withered Peach Rose

I’ve been fascinated by rose scents ever since I started to wear perfume. Therefore you may find various rose fragrances in my perfume cabinet. From the bold and beautiful Frederic Malle Une Rose, the potpourri rose Jo Malone Red Roses and to the memorable woody rose Le Labo Rose 31. However, there isn’t a certain type of rose scent that I am particularly fond of. I can only say potpourri kind of rose is my least favorite.

I am also a fan of the great perfumer Bertrand Duchaufour; not only are his creations all over the niche market today but they always come with surprises. The reviews are on two of his recent creations on roses that I find most interesting and full bottle worthy. The first one is Rose Cut by Ann Gerard. The name Rose Cut refers to an ancient diamond cutting technique that lends the stone a soft radiance. The notes includes: Aldehyde, rum, pink pepper, rose, peony, patchouli, vanilla, oakmoss, benzoin. KEEP ON READING

Precious as High Jewellery: Ann Gerard Perfume Collection

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Recently I wanted to try something new that is not so talked yet, so I decided to explore the collection of the French niche house Ann Gerard. It caught my interest because all scents are created by Bertrand Duchaufour, a nose I resonate with very well most of the time. From what I have read, the jewellery designer Anne Gerard launched her own brand of luxury accessories in 1994, creating since then for prestigious companies around the world and one of her greatest skills is that she`s able to translate her customs ideas and even feelings into precious jewels that are both timeless and perfectly fitted on the personality of their owners – something I believe she achieved also very well with her collection of scents that she launched later in 2012. The line is small but eclectic and rich, covering different olfactory genres approached from new angles.
Perle de Mousse for example surprised my nose with its pale green smell that develops gradually and softly, as a whispered love poem. It exhibits melancholic facets of a classic chypre fragrance, proving this category still work very well in our days with a few subtle changes and improvements. First of all it is not so heavy as an old school chypre. It debuts leafy and just slightly aldehydic, then travels through a fine, scented cloud of lush flowers to reach a smooth base dominated by resins. An interesting fact is that the floral middle part seems to be the shortest, being kept tight between the verdant opening and the warm resins of the base. The thing I admire the most is how one single ingredient, namely ivy that is perceptible right from the start, is able to dominate and influence the whole composition, anchoring the scent into contemporary. Bertrand Duchaufour made a brilliant choice by deciding to increase the volume of this cold green raw material that has a faint bitter facet instead of using the common citruses that dissipate much faster. Thus, the ivy is very effective in the mixture. The note envelopes the shy bouquet of flowers and the warm resins and musk in an invigorating and transparent veil all the way through, giving a gentle contour to the elegant scent that seems very feminine and classic but with a modern, unexpected twist. KEEP ON READING

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