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Andy Tauer

Chypre but not tart

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Today Liz Moores of Papillon Perfumes released her latest creation, Dryad. She says that she’s been working on the formula for several years, including the when she shoved it in a drawer in frustration and left it there for a year or five.

I’ve known this green chypre was coming for about a year, as I follow Liz on Facebook and Instagram. Given my love for this genre and her other fragrances, particularly the voluptuous oriental Salome, I leapt at the chance to try it.

I am an unapologetic fan of what I call ‘proper’ chypres – ones that rely on oakmoss not patchouli married with bergamot to give them a brisk smack to start and a warm, skin-melding base. While fruits such as peaches (Mitsouko) or plums (Femme de Rochas) give a stained-glass warmth to some classic chypres, my preference is for the green or leathery variety. But these ladies are not what they once were; Cabochard with her purse-lipped leather smack is grumpier and more of a caricature now, my precious Miss Balmain with her ‘good leather handbag for church’ aura has been discontinued, and my Miss Dior (l’Originale) is now a shadow of her former eyebrow-arching, pearl-clutching self. While I can still enjoy my vintage bottles, before they give up the ghost and go off, there have been no genuine mossy green chypres to replace them. Until now. KEEP ON READING

Smoke, Woods, & Resins: Top 15 for Fall/Winter

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2016 has been a bad year for celebrity deaths and an even worse one for celebrity presidential elections, so I’ve found myself craving and wearing mostly woody, resinous perfumes that perform like one long howling basenote, working my tired neck muscles like a Russian massage therapist. This year, no roses, no leathers, and no ambers – just a long line of calming, resinous woods that make me feel like I’ve slipped into the Nirvana of a silent forest, isolated from all the problems of the world around me. KEEP ON READING

Au Coeur du Desert by Andy Tauer: L’Air Speaking with its Indoor Voice

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Au Coeur du Desert by Tauer Perfumes is the extrait version of L’Air du Desert Marocain. But certain nuances have been dialed up and some down, so that while it is recognizable as a twin to the original, it is definitely a fraternal rather than identical twin. Those who love L’Air will love Au Coeur too; but maybe those who found L’Air too demanding to wear may find a version that suits them better in Au Coeur.

The petitgrain in the topnotes has been turned up a pitch and extended far into the heart. This drenches the scent in a bracing, citrusy sourness that momentarily reads as very masculine, petitgrain being a popular feature of fresh, lemony aftershaves. The citrus is so bright and piercing that it throws the other notes into deep shade, making the cedarwood and patchouli seem darker. If L’Air du Desert Marocain was the red-gold of the desert sands and the harsh glare of the sun, then Au Coeur is a melting chocolate brown, the color of the long shadows of a log cabin lit only by the fire. KEEP ON READING

Aldehydes, Past and Present

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Once you become interested in perfumes, you begin to search for answers to hitherto unknown mysteries, such as trying to learn what aldehydes really smell like. (A few years ago, before I had registered on my first perfume forum, I don’t think I had ever heard the word “aldehyde.”) The perfume neophyte soon realizes that aldehydes are everywhere in perfumery, although they do not seem to be terribly popular these days.

A Gardenia Omnibus Review

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It can be a lot of fun to apply a method to one’s madness. Over the summer, for reasons that I do not fully understand, I have been on a mission to understand gardenia perfumes. In the end, I think my love of vintage Miss Dior perfume gave birth to my fascination with gardenia.

The problem of mugginess

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As the weather turns from the beautiful warm summer we’ve enjoyed in Wales this year, and we move towards what I hope will be a gloriously colourful autumn, this week I felt a bit stuck. Mugginess had me stymied.

You may have noticed that my fragrance choices are very much dictated by the weather. I’m lucky not to work in an office, so I don’t have to worry about wearing perfumes that are ‘office appropriate’ and when I do have to go to a meeting, there is Chanel No. 19. (Meetings were what No 19 was created for, surely?) So I can pretty much follow my instincts with what I choose to wear each day. I’m a massive fan of greens and citruses in the summer, but in autumn I tend to turn – like the leaves – to ambers. These are the scent equivalent of cosy fuzzy jumpers – not the full-blown winter warmers that you need to keep the frost at bay, but soothing, enveloping comfort scents that are as obvious and easy to wear at this time of year as a cashmere hoody. KEEP ON READING

Tauer Sotto La Luna Gardenia

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As most perfume lovers know, gardenia flowers do not readily yield an essential oil or absolute, and thus the scent of gardenias is almost always recreated synthetically. The essential artifice of gardenia perfumes doesn’t trouble me at all; in fact, I think it’s a feature...

Flashes of appealing simplicity

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I already gave a full review of my stand-out favourite of Andy Tauer’s Tauerville Flash range, Fruitchouli Flash, which turned out to be a happy modern peachy chypre that reminded me of Mitsouko. I have to let you in on a secret – I think Andy has had another little brush with the classic Guerlain fairy, more of which in a moment.

I’ve tried the whole range and overall I will say that I don’t think these fragrances have the complexity of Andy’s main line. However, this isn’t a complaint, because he has reduced his prices significantly with the Flashes and this must have an effect on the ingredients he uses. As a perennially skint perfumista, I applaud this. To be able to buy niche fragrance at high street prices is a wonderful thing. And of course, affordability also enables people like me to think about getting really funky with fragrance and layering, which is something I think the Flashes would be really good for. KEEP ON READING

Sneaky chypre in a flash

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Andy Tauer’s Fruitchouli Flash was a fragrance I had to grit my teeth before applying. You know I said I’m not much of a fan of florals? Well I like fruitchoulis even less. At least you know where you are with a flower even if you don’t fond of it. I struggled through the era of ghastly, cloying fruitchoulis (the bane of every elevator at the time) and was very glad to see the genre start to die back a little. Then Andy did this to me.

Now I am an unashamed Andy Tauer fangirl, and I have been ever since I made the pilgrimage to Spiegelgasse in Zurich to visit his friend Pascal’s medieval bookshop and try the Tauer perfumes, which used to be attached to a bookcase outside the front door by lengths of string. I fell in love with L’Air du Desert Marocain and it is still one of my favourite perfumes, one I turn to regularly for its ability to be perfect in any situation. I like most of Andy’s fragrances, and love a few of them, with only a handful being full-blown misses for me. With a record like that, how could Andy make something as gruesome as a *gasp* Fruitchouli? KEEP ON READING

Lonesome Rider Review Series Pt. 3: A Beautiful Cloud of White

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[Part 3 of a review series on the new Tauer Perfumes fragrance Lonesome Rider. Please find the other parts here: Part 1 – Sjörn | Part 2 – Neoxerxes | Part 4 – Narada – Available for purchase here ]

Lonesome Rider strikes me as quite different to the impressions of my blog colleagues here and here. To me, it reads mainly as a bright, arid floral with a dusty, soapy trail, eventually winding up in a grey, mineralic cloud of resins and Ambroxan. If that doesn’t sound like I enjoy the scent, then you’d be wrong: I love it. It’s just that I don’t get much of the leather or any of the smoke that other people are talking about. To me, this is a beautiful white-grey cloud of soapy orris, spicy carnation, and other, mixed florals (rose, violet, jasmine) floating on top of that Tauerade of powdery sandalwood, vetiver, and Ambroxan. If Lonestar Memories is an oil painting done in thick reds, browns, and tar black, then Lonesome Rider is an acid pastel – strong but delicate. KEEP ON READING

Lonesome Rider Review Series Pt 2: Alone Amidst a Clash of Opposites

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Lonesome Rider Review Series Part 2
Lonesome Rider Review Series Part 2
Lonesome Rider Review Series Part 2

[Part 2 of a review series on the new Tauer Perfumes fragrance Lonesome Rider. Please find the other parts here: Part 1 – Sjörn Part 2 | Part 3 – Claire | Part 4 – Narada – Available for purchase here ]

Andy Tauer is a titanic figure in the fragrance community. More personable, passionate, and involved in the community than many perfumers, it isn’t uncommon to see interviews with Tauer pop up on multiple YouTube feeds and fragrance websites. He has a blog (and actually uses it), and regularly visits retailers such as The Scent Bar in order to meet with fans. No stranger to controversy, he has declared niche perfumery dead and the industry swamped with greed. If it is not yet clear, Tauer is true artist, and a provocative one at that (he has even painted a couple of oil on canvas portraits of Donald Trump). Though I have never met him, I like him, partly for his bold personality and skill as an artist, but also for his humble character and extraordinarily well-trimmed facial hair involvement in the community. KEEP ON READING

Lonesome Rider Review Series Pt 1: Andy Tauer’s new Fragrance won’t leave you lonesome for long…

in Reviews/Team Round Up by

lonesomeride_1

[Part 1 of a review series on the new Tauer Perfumes fragrance Lonesome Rider. Please find the other parts here: Part 2 – Neoxerxes | Part 3 – Claire | Part 4 – Narada –Available for purchase here]

One of the lessons you learn when you grow up, start a family with children, and enjoy an active social life, is the difference between being lonesome and being lonely. I have two wonderful kids, an adorable wife, and a job I like well enough, but when you’re in the position of having to communicate all day long with other people, you begin to realize that every moment on your own is precious. Don’t get me wrong – I would never want to miss a single moment of my  life with my family or my colleagues at  Essenza Nobile. I am grateful that I have all of this in my life. Nevertheless, I savour every single minute I have to myself. KEEP ON READING

Andy Tauer’s Lonestar Memories

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We’re all excited here at Fragrance Daily for the arrival of precious samples of the new Andy Tauer release, Lonesome Rider. Over the next week or so, there will be a series of takes on this new scent by a few of our contributing writers, so keep tuned to this site! In the meantime, though, I thought we’d take a look back at one of the classics in Andy Tauer’s line, namely Lonestar Memories, because this fragrance was the starting point for the Lonesome Rider.

In his WordPress blog created for the purpose of launching Lonesome Rider, Andy mentioned that Lonestar Memories was  “[A] scent that captures elements of untrimmed leather, campfire and the scent of wild pastures. A smoky leather note is what I wanted to see in Lonesome Rider, too. To me, this feels like going back to the source. I want the Lonesome Rider to stand out of the crowd. Thus, there’s an element of rough texture that I love so much. The smoke note is civilized, the leather warm and feels like a worn leather jacket.” KEEP ON READING

Roses Volume IV

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This installment covers a jammy rose, an attar of roses, a cologne-style rose-oud, and a dusky oriental rose.

Rose Flash by Andy Tauer Tauerville

Food & Drink
Rhubarb Strawberry Jam | Slim Pickin&;s Kitchen

The Tauerville project is very interesting because it’s an acknowledgment by a perfumer that sometimes we are just looking for a rough and dirty fix on an ingredient – a whistled tune rather than a full scale opera. Rose Flash is a forceful exposition of an idea of rose as an edible, attar-like confection, made to satisfy a base hunger that more delicate or more complex rose creations cannot. KEEP ON READING

Amber Flash…and the G-R-O-W-I-N-G Cult of Tauerville

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tauerville amber flash

You just love how Andy Tauer does it time and again. From L’Air Du Desert Marocain to Vetiver Dance, Incense Extreme, and to the recent and wildly popular success of the Tauerville ‘Flash’ series the gap between mere mortals making perfume and Andy Tauer is widening-naturally-by default but it’s supposed to be that way.

Andy Tauer is way up ‘here’ whilst everyone else is still scrambling, and assembling to miraculously discovery an itinerary. With the subtle encroachment of The Tauerville Flash series in the bourgeoning niche perfume market they have done that-and then some-with their latest wonder: Amber Flash. And by all means it is wonder, a magnificent amber kind of wonder. KEEP ON READING

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