Niche Fragrance Magazine

Five Shades of Rose from Andy Tauer

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Thousands and thousands of rose fragrances have been created in the course of time, the queen of flowers being one of the most popular notes in perfumery, continuously interpreted in various ways. The offer is overwhelming. We could pick lemony fresh rose scents, soapy rose scents, vanilla rose scents, powdery ones, fruity ones…There are fantastic perfumes created around this flower, scents that evoke us a memory, scents that could take us on imaginary trips, scents that tell us nothing. But now I`d like to speak about another kind of roses, very special to me and these are the Tauer roses. The varieties of roses cultivated in Tauerville are deserving their own category. I needed time and patience to understand Andy`s roses, but when I finally let myself go and felt them with closed eyes and opened mind it was, and continues to be, one of the most fascinating experiences in my olfactive journey so far.

So here they are, the beauties, as I see them:

Incense Rosé (2008): a see-through frankincense smoke envelopes continuously here the rose. This contemplative and moody scent shows interesting contrasts of notes, having a special depth and charisma. It presents more the shadow of the flower projected on the ground instead of showing it from a conservative angle. The incense seems never cold and austere here, being topped with citrus accents and accompanied over time by all sorts of oriental notes such as warm resins, wood and a telluric patchouli. This mysterious rose hided behind the incense veil works surprisingly well on men too. I`m wearing Insence Rosé in the evening on my wrists while reading a book or when I paint or watch a movie, because it has a fine and discreet presence if I apply it with a light hand and sometimes this kind of peaceful scents is everything I need.

Une Rose Chyprée (2009): in this fragrance Andy presents all the facets of the flower, starting from the root and going up to the crown and the result is a harmonious transfer from vintage to avant-garde. Exactly this aspect makes the composition so special, the fact that for a while it could smell familiar to your nose, like a great classic perfume, then suddenly it twists into present surprising me with contemporary new accords. It debuts very dense and compact with an oily kind of note that smells a little bit like flax oil I use when I`m painting, but as strange as it might sound I find the opening very intriguing. The oily stage lasts just a couple of minutes and when it fades I notice a dark rose bud, small and frail, almost odorless. In time this tiny bud begins to grow and it develops more and more becoming fragrant and complex. When it reaches the dry down I can experience one of the most refined and generous bouquets of roses in perfumery. But it`s not actually a soliflore scent, because it clearly feels that Une Rose Chyprée is supported by some balsamic and earthy shades from myrrh, labdanum and patchouli. Overall it is a sweet-spicy floriental with a dusty base, like a powder made of crushed dried petals. The whole composition seems to suggest different stages of a roses life, the birth with the little bud in the top notes, then it grows as a beautiful rose, generous and mature, kissed all day by the sun, followed by an ending full of poetry, sweet and dry. It`s sillage and longevity are exceptional and could compete with the ones of a pure perfume.

Une Rose Vermeille (2010): it is and it is not about just roses actually. Here I notice in the spotlight near the rose a juicy raspberry note which smells almost as intense as the flower and these two elements are creating a mouthwatering mixture. The main succulent accords are the enriched with a dusty and soapy lavender that reduces a little the overall sweetness adding at the same time a touch of lightness. Everything is then juxtaposed on a base formed by smooth tones of sandalwood, beittersweet tonka beans and vanilla. On this oriental pedestal the glorious scarlet rose continues to stay fresh ans shines over and over, spreading a velvety-gourmand scent around. I`m seduced by this charming scent, feeling it the entire day in my hair and on my neck and it always puts me in a good mood makeing me wanna dance and wear a bright raspberry lipstick shade. Pair it with a nice dress and you`ll stole everyone`s show. It`s feminine to the bones!

Kandahar

PHI Une Rose de Kandahar (2013): the rose collection grows coherently with this beautiful strong oriental and, unfortunately, limited edition. For this composition Andy chose as a main ingredient an exceptional and rare raw material, namely a rose extract obtained from a variety that grows in harsh weather contitions of the region Kandahar from Afganisthan. My story of PHI starts with a tempest. Huge waves are hitting the shores of an island where spectacular roses are growing in a hidden garden. The wind transports sparkling sea water drops up to the flowers infusing their petals with an almost mineral scent. It`s the ambroxan note I get first that splashes the rose. It`s outstanding and dramatic how these two notes are dancing here. As time goes by the salted accords are starting to fade a bit, leaving the rose to reign. The vigorous rose dried from the slated shower and now it absorbs the warmth of the sun unfolding his velvety petals in slow motion. The scent becomes gradualy sweeter due to a delicious almondy-apricot note that seems very vibrant and far from cloying which, together with the pure essence of the rose, well, it is easy to imagine how wonderful it works. A sophisticated mixture of spices in which the cinnamon proves to be the key element composes the base. I took my bottle with me on holiday to Istanbul this year and in that warm atmosphere full of spicy flavors Rose de Kandahar bloomed and shined, spreading his magical scent in the best possible way, so don`t omit wearing it in warmer days. Knowing the fact it is a limited edition makes our love very intense and irresponsible.

flash

Rose Flash (2014): this rose comes in a tiny 10 ml roll-on bottle as the first scent from the line entitled Flash Scents. If the rest of Tauer`s unique roses might be interesting also for non-rose lovers, Rose Flash on the other hand is Andy`s precious gift for true rose aficionados. This is a ROSE with capital letters, so you`ll have to be truly, madly and deeply in love with this flower in order to enjoy it at a max. I am, I waited so long for such a scent. The orange juice has a concentration of 20% and is by far the heaviest and sweetest rose Andy has ever made. The composition is dominated by a noble and highly concentrated rose absolute which literally blasts on my skin. A delightful embroidery of sweet nuances floates around the majestic rose, adding him shades of peach, amber and a warm Bourbon vanilla bed to rest in the base. At least these are the notes my nose picks up, as the formula is secret. Gently roll it twice behind the ears and enjoy it with closed eyes.

Life`s a beautiful journey with Andy Tauer`s scents.

 

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Hi, my name is Raluca! I am born in Romania and live in Switzerland for many years. I love perfumes since I was a little girl and now I am an avid perfume collector and totally dedicated to the amazing world of essences. I am always looking for something new and interesting to discover and among my personal preferences are the delicate and powdery notes, but also some bold orientals. I admire both clasic and niche fragrances with a special twist in them. A good perfume for me should be able to put me in a special mood, to complete and inspire me…things I need when I paint or do photography, my other two passions.

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