Niche Fragrance Magazine

Duchaufour’s Recent Roses: Ann Gerard Rose Cut & L’Artisan Parfumeur Rose Privee

in Reviews by
Flowers & Trees
Withered Peach Rose

I’ve been fascinated by rose scents ever since I started to wear perfume. Therefore you may find various rose fragrances in my perfume cabinet. From the bold and beautiful Frederic Malle Une Rose, the potpourri rose Jo Malone Red Roses and to the memorable woody rose Le Labo Rose 31. However, there isn’t a certain type of rose scent that I am particularly fond of. I can only say potpourri kind of rose is my least favorite.

I am also a fan of the great perfumer Bertrand Duchaufour; not only are his creations all over the niche market today but they always come with surprises. The reviews are on two of his recent creations on roses that I find most interesting and full bottle worthy. The first one is Rose Cut by Ann Gerard. The name Rose Cut refers to an ancient diamond cutting technique that lends the stone a soft radiance. The notes includes: Aldehyde, rum, pink pepper, rose, peony, patchouli, vanilla, oakmoss, benzoin.

Rose Cut opens with a slight trace of aldehyde and rum which made the rose a bit winey. Almost like rose syrup in a cocktail. This alluring scent of rose beverage actually made my mouth water every time I wear it. Pink pepper brings out the spiciness of the rose in bloom. The heart note is sparkling and bubbly until settling to a jammy rose. At this stage, it reminds me of LUSH Rose Jam but in a different direction. Rose Cut feels luxurious and radiant when Rose Jam is dull and heady. The scent is pretty much linear on my skin. Rose petals juxtapose with vanilla. Feels like a rosy warm embrace.

From some of the reviews I read stating Rose Cut has an unsatisfying lasting power. However, it lasts solid five to six hours on me. This is very strange considering I live in a tropical weather. Projection and sillage are both excellent.

While I was still enjoying Rose Cut, L’Artisan Parfumeur announced the launch of their latest perfume Rose Privee. A floral fragrance of striking beauty, Rose Privée interprets the rare and iconic May Rose in a contemporary way. Being a rose fanatic, I made up my mind on blind buying it ever since I saw the launch news on NST. When it finally arrived, I was dazzled.

The very first spray of Rose Privee hit my wrist, all I can smell was yuzu or grapefruit peels. I was surprised because from the notes I read, citrus isn’t listed. The citrus note in the opening carries a juicy aspect that smells very familiar. I instantly thought about Jardin du Poete by Eau d’ Italie (also a Duchaufour creation). It lingers around 30 mins then the rose hidden in the center starts to merge. The basil and violet leaf notes make it elegant and velvet, also fresh and green at the same time. If I have to specify the color of this rose, it’s definitely pink. The only thing that bothers me is the drydown; I can only detect the grassy patchouli and the rose is buried deep somewhere.

Is it an original rose fragrance? Well… it is unique in its own way but it does share some similarities with some of Duchaufour’s previous creations. (Jardin due Poete and Seville a l’Aube)  Lasting power isn’t as good as I hope. Around 4 hours on my skin. Projection is moderate. It is a rose fragrance which isn’t so dominated by rose. If you are looking for a huge bouquet of rose fragrance, you might want to skip this one out. Rose privee isn’t all about roses. Though the name is somehow misleading, it is actually beautifully crafted. I am just happy that it doesn’t get sour or soapy like some other rose fragrances do to me.

The notes in Rose Privee includes: basil, lilac, carnation, hay, magnolia, may rose, patchouli, violet leaf and amber.

A rose fanatic, also a fan of iris. Been collecting fragrances for almost 2 decades.

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