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Niche Fragrance Reviews By True Aficionados

Fragrance Daily - Niche Perfume Reviews

Category: Reviews

  I’ve been hearing of these comparisons between Cuirs and Black Afgano for years. With Black Afgano being a LEGENDARY fragrance in its own right and one that I quite love, I figured it was time to give Carner Barcelona’s Cuirs a shot. Once I received Cuirs I gave it a week of testing, fully wearing, that left me with…

Leather and oud are two of the most popular notes in niche and even designer/mainstream perfumery at the moment.  Of course leather has been a popular theme for fragrances for many years for both men and women—the Russian Leathers/Cuirs de Rusie, the Knize Tens and the Cabochards and Bandits all attest to that.  Oud is a little different—long used in…

You may think it’s strange that a sane woman in her 50s has a schoolgirl fondness for enormous horses, but bear with me. The handsome fellow in the photo is Gilbert, half Shire, half racehorse, all character. He is 16 hands high, which is too tall for me to be able to see over his saddle and I’m no munchkin;…

Molecule 01 is a sneaky fragrance and a triumph of marketing, though not in a negative way. It is marketed as a “radically minimalist” fragrance, one that changes based on the skin chemistry of the wearer. Even calling it a fragrance is somewhat of an overstretch, as it is more of a skin scent and an aura than a proper fragrance. In terms of…

When a beloved perfume from the past such as Le Galion’s Sortilège (1936) is relaunched, the logic of perfume marketing demands that the new version be praised as a faithful continuation of the legacy. Meanwhile, those who know the original version can be expected to wail in chorus, “It’s not the same.” But If you love vintage perfumes, you already know it won’t be the same. At best, you hope that the relaunch shows some respect for the history of the perfume and the memories of those who wore it in its original form.

A sucker. Yep. That’s me. A sucker for the hype train… One way ticket on the Hype Train Express. Hype central. When folks on a certain fragrance forum began discussing Floris 1962, praising it as the second coming of vintage greats, I had to get myself a sample. And upon obtaining one—luckily for me (and perhaps for you, dear reader)—I found…

Riding on a ski lift with my friend last week we were chatting, as you do, about our teenage years. When we got around to perfume – that most potent of memory-joggers – we laughed about the changing-room-filling cloud of assorted Impulse body sprays that were the compulsory scent of those years (have things changed much? My own teenage daughter…

Although it is still February, the weekend was unseasonably warm and sunny, and I felt that I could wear Diorella again. Diorella–neon bright, energetic but still relaxed, lifted my mood and dispelled the gloom of winter and uncertain times. Diorella is such an entertaining roller coaster ride of a perfume that for a long time I never stopped to analyze its appeal: I just put it on and enjoyed it. Gradually, I began to realize what an unusual composition it is: it is my favorite of all of Edmond Roudnitska’s perfumes and, it is said, his favorite as well.

      C’i’aan and Aka’ula make quite an impressive debut to the ‘Fragosphere’ in 2017. As exotic and enigmatic as these two fragrances may seem at first glance they will exceed your expectations for daring to dabble into the unknown. Housed in two black mysterious flacons with titles in what appears to be Arial-print and lowercase lettering C’i’aan and…

What I’ve managed to try from Xerjoff’s Shooting Star collection has been mostly excellent. From the refreshing Nio to the charismatic Uden, each of the fragrances from the line have one thing in common: quality ingredients. At the first sniff it is quite obvious, and this trait is also present in many of the other offerings from the house. But… as any decent cook will…

    I don’t want to mislead you. “Civet” by Zoologist is by no means an aquatic perfume. But this sea and its white foam spluttering wild horses made me feel that bit more alive today, alongside “Civet“. I was watching from a sheltered spot, a suspended parapet near the train station close to where I work and the combination…

Bandit Unleashed

What makes a perfume tough rather than pretty? I don’t think we can look to the perfume’s notes for an explanation, since the meanings we associate with specific smells vary greatly by the individual and culture. Take just about any perfume note in isolation, and you will get a multitude of interpretations. Vanilla can be comforting or cloying. The scent of jasmine is intoxicating to some, fecal to others. Rose is a masculine note in some cultures and quintessentially feminine elsewhere. But there would seem to be no possible ambiguity about the meaning of Robert Piguet’s Bandit…

The evocative power of fragrance is known to everyone who reads this blog. Upon the first whiff, one will think (fondly or otherwise) of a friend, a place, a moment in time, a favored sweater, or even a song. But Maison Francis Kurkdjian’s Oud is one of the only fragrances that has made me immediately think of a book. That book…

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