I recently discovered the perfume house of Abbott NYC and was reasonably impressed by their effortless pledge-or it seems like a pledge-to minimalism. Abbott NYC is a new house offering just four fragrances, for now, with a very simple and basic approach at hammering into our olfactory senses at the highest subliminal level. Everything, in their approach is tailor made so perfect by Abbott that at times you might find yourself asking, is that it”. When you examine their fragrances it is simple. They all have three distinct notes, they all are named after famous american tourist destinations: Telluride (famous resort town in Colorado known for its music and film festivals as well as skiing), Mojave (the infamous Nevada-Californian desert), The Cape (possibly Cape Cod Massachusetts) and Sequoia (The Sequoia National Forest replete with legions of tall Sequoia found in numerous groves, 38 to be exact) and they all smell fantastic with their own separate identities and olfactory themes. I’m guessing Abbott made these marvelous wonders for the adventurous ilk but the added bonus is that if you are are the average or above average perfume aficionado that can relate to all around ‘Good tasting juice’ then Abbott NYC has something for you also.[...]
Cher wood, a most brilliant creation from the house of Molinard perfumes located in the Agora of perfume heraldry-Grasse, France- will turn out to be every ‘Woody’ perfume lovers dream which I will explain in full detail with a spectacular convincing analogy. But, before I commence, a confession arrives and regrettably so, that this composition ‘snuck’ past me initially but I did not let it get away. After all, the marketplace is inundated with woody themes:
A. Some type of Sandalwood fragrance with a ‘Royal’ or ‘Imperial’ moniker.[...]
Fall Crawl 2016 is time for the Iconic. When Fall finally sets in, all of the favorite perfumes of the summer season take a back seat as the days begin to cool down.
No, worries. You will be well suited with these iconic fragrances:
So, according to conventional wisdom and smell-good standards Issara is a Fougere fragrance that is redefined. However, my first impression of this marvelous wonder of a an elixir was built upon two notes when I first encountered this perfume. But before I proceed with my long drawn out explanation can we please all bow for such an appealing bottle. It is pure absolute unadulterated eye candy.. ala Haute-Couture. The bottles presence is sheer magnetism. A splendid gold top with the brand name engraved on the neck followed by a ‘Perfect’ square flacon with the signature logo emblazoned on the front it makes your mouth water and draws you in. From the bottles appearance by default the juice contained inside has to smell good. Getting, back to my first encounter with Issara my attention was captured with two notes. Pine and Sage. How I just love these two notes from smelling them in other perfumes which most notably was a version of Egyptian Musk that contained a safe amount of sage that did wonders for me. My Pine fascination began with Rasasi perfumes-Wow Woody which slightly resembles Encre Noire by Lalique but has a prominent pine note to go with that sexy vetiver! Wow Woody also did wonders for me also and so naturally, with Issara, I was instantly hooked. The Pine-Sage-Vetiver-Coumarin combination is Outstanding. Remember all Fougere’s are not created equal as some have a tendency to sentence these fragrances to the ‘Barber Shop’ category for untrained noses. However, Issara bypasses this and is taken to new heights. At times Issara has a gourmand effect because it has a faint sweetness to go with the aromatic, green and mossy theme. They list Grey amber and musk as some of the notes and it is these two in concert with the coumarin that everyone raves about. I concur but don’t forget the Pine and that beautiful dose of sage in Issara. Of course some Tobacco is thrown in to play with oakmoss and Issara’s defining moment is perfectly captured. You can say Issara is an Fougere and then some! It really is of the spectacular type and will not disappoint as this potent Extrait De Perfume exudes supreme creativity and not only redefines Fougere but sillage and longevity. This is pure delight and makes those Fall Saturday afternoons a little cozier.[...]
Parfumes De Nicolai labels their latest Oud contribution an ‘Elixir‘ of Perfume which will bear some of the ‘finest and rare natural raw essences ever collected for their first ever exclusive luxury offering. Some might view their latest perfume as..“Oudh for the Bourgeois” considering the extreme lengths that were taken to assemble an undisputed Emperor of Oud scent that will not easily be obtained for the common folk. The aim of Parfums De Nicolai in this endeavor is to shoot high or better yet, shoot way above and beyond the bar set for making luxury perfumes. Oud Sublime, marks uncharted territory for Perfumes De Nicolai as this will be their first attempt in introducing the ‘Quality you will pay for’ ethos in their entire catalogue of perfumes. It is an ‘Elixir’ so it is imperative that Oudh Sublime contains the best ingredients. It is imperative that Oudh sublime contains better ingredients than some of their current fan favorites: Incense Oud, Rose Oud, Amber Cashmere, Musc Monoi, Amber Oud and many others. Each Nicolai perfume has a different meaning to their legion of fans but one thing that must be understood above all else is that Oud Sublime must cast a huge shadow over everything. It is imperative[...]
Hemlock was created to escape the banality of perfumes. It is one of the nine fragrances introduced by Perfumes Quartana to commemorate the fascination with the worlds poisonous flowers. Appearing simple, beautiful and seductive upon arrival, they are in reality quite dangerous. With Parfums Quartana ‘Les Potions Fatales’ which happen to be a limited-edition of very prestigious scents, Hemlock is the perfect elixir to highlight the strange eroticism with the dark side of such flowers. Hemlock, manages to combine the Femme and Homme Fatale to make for an interesting fragrant experience. After all, naming a perfume called Hemlock that killed one of the worlds greatest philosophers can be somewhat of a risky adventure, don’t disclose these concerns to Parfums Quartana for they ushered in one of the more interesting fragrances of 2016. Hemlock does not fall short or even disappoint. Excuse me as I explain.[...]
The Iris dances with such unbridled perfection in this seductive concoction-‘Bel Ambre’- by Jacques Fath Essentials, which is one of a quartet of new fragrances composed by renowned perfumer extraordinaire; Cecile Zarokian, that one would think it could possibly jump right out of the bottle. Bel Ambre perfume is constructed with exact precision around the Iris note which gives it it’s ‘otherworldly’ presence. You have smelled Iris, you have even smelled countless Iris theme laden offerings at various smell good parlors but in Bel Ambre you are awarded the opportunity of experiencing it. After sampling and almost bribing myself to purchasing Naomi Goodir’s Iris Cendre-a very well composed and spectacular Iris fragrance-I managed to stumble across a sample of Bel Ambre by sheer coincidence to which I might explain later. I applied sparingly so that i might not have to endure the possibility that it could be a monstrosity but was met with optimism which later turned to satisfaction with the new angle on Iris Bel Ambre presented. Immediately, the description of an Aromatic-Iris-Oriental came to mind when piecing together the finer elements of this elixir.[...]
Emeshel’s ‘Y’ fragrance can be best described as ‘beautifully efficient’. It is an most definitive as well as enchanting modern luxury luxury scent from their Premium collection which boasts an ‘X’ version to compliment the ‘Y’ and a ‘Gold’ version to compliment the Platinum. Emeshel perfumes decided that long before there launch of these superlative ‘smelly’ luxury offerings that they would decisively make a huge dent by remaining unique, highlighting elegance and actively “buck” the the system by adhering to their own rules. When you sample the pure and unbridled-unforced elegance of ‘Y’ you will get the complete gist of what the Premium Collection means.[...]
In Defense of Cuiron is the most fitting title for this review in that during all my spent so far in this realm of perfumes, never have I witnessed as much Vitriol for a fragrance than Cuiron has garnered by the esteemed house of Helmut Lang. When I first encountered Cuiron the decision to inform the world of how cavalier and warming this fragrance is was put to an immediate halt when discovering the absolute hate it was generating. My first initial impression of Cuiron was a freindly signature leather fragrance possessing a different taste than the multitude of leather genres. Cuiron was warm, medium spicy and sweet despite a an overt new age leather scent. The Leather aroma can be described as Retro-Modern.[...]
In the stratosphere they call Perfume there always remains ample opportunity for a good story, a moving story, an inspiring story-however in the case of Eight & Bob perfumes they have the Best stories. Consider this if you will, you are Albert Fouquet-the esteemed ‘Braintrust’ and perfume extraordinaire of Eight and Bob perfumes deeply grounded in Paris in the year 1937. You have garnered a real reputation for making glamorous as well as coveted bespoke perfumes exclusively for the Parisian elite and a young John Fitzgerald Kennedy-who decades later would become the 35th President of the united states-receives whiff of your perfumes and asks for a sample. With splendid timing and extended wit Albert Fouquet arrives at the hotel where the young student John F. Kennedy is staying whist in Paris for the summer and leaves a sample of his perfume that JFK desired at a previous meeting with a note that read:[...]
In Cuba they say Ahí-Namá, which directly translates to the un-initiated and unlearned as..”Its right here, Look no further or This is it”. With T. Habanero Perfume’ impressive offering for a grandiose taste of Havana Cuba and the Orient (Oudh-Myhrr-Incense notes) Ahí Namá is the appropriate term to finally end the decades old argument, or in this case, what is the most coveted ‘Cuban’ inspired Cigar-tobacco perfume that exists solely T-O-D-A-Y on this planet called Earth. The Mysticism of Cuba runs deep-as in almost to the bottom of the abyss-in this culturally depraved GMO-fast food digital age society. We want to be romanced when the word Cuba or Havana appears. We yearn to be serenaded by stories and pictures of 57 Chevy’s and ‘Behemoth’ Cuban Cigars that are so ridiculously big that it will take about a month to smoke one. We want to indulge in Cuban music but only at the surface level as legions of overnight musical historians read liner notes from CD’s and recite famous songs from the archives of Cuban Son as interpreted by renown acts such as Buena Vista Social Club or Afro-Cuban All Stars, who happen to be pretty good as well as masters of the Cuban musical craft.[...]
The perfumes of Tiziana Terenzi are some really quite interesting delectable fragrances. They are so interesting to the point that they always seem to evoke such a wide range of emotional opinions when observing feedback on-line that begins with very complex and eclectic type of fragrances to ..”maybe a wee bit synthetic” and sometimes very heady. I even discovered that one reviewer had extreme ‘issues’ for the design of the bottles but could not manage to find objectivity anywhere-even if it hit him in the face-in judging their fragrances. Indeed, there are numerous opinions that are founded as well as unfounded about Tiziana Terenzi but to instantly quell any doubts regarding the authenticity, magnetism and sheer beauty of Tiziana Terenzi perfumes the ‘favorables’ always outnumber the ‘naysayers’ by..lets say a landslide.[...]
As we are fresh off the heels of celebrating Beltane-which has been 13 days already-and are steadfast in approaching the summer solstice the Fragrances that have been arriving lately will leave plenty for the imagination as some of the more polished ones resemble that of the all to famous piece of literature: The Short Story.
By now, we all know what the definition of the short story lest we forgot. In a profoundly encroaching and bullying digital age which has replaced our penchant for the five senses we have blindly as well as willfully accepted the amalgamated synthetic messes made by today’s Holy See of perfumery. Flankers, Limited Edition bottles, “Eau De” this… “Aqua di” that… we have finally succumbed or have we? Not fully yet and with the upcoming Summer Soltice Optimism wreaks heavy in the air with the latest assortment of perfumes with titles like that of Short Stories.[...]
Resin Sacra works by way of deception. While appearing as a pure Incense fragrance at first glance and sniff it gradually turns into a separate scent for a moment, then changes again before finally reverting back to its original form of Incense. The Incense notes in Resin Sacra present a challenge to the casual and cultured wearers of the hallowed incense fragrances in that there is subtle sense of antagonism and even bitter irony involved when crossing paths of this Resin Sacra that it sounds more like an initiation into an ancient order.[...]
After the seemingly overnight unabashed cult-like following and manic success of Lattafa perfumes most impressive perfume offering Raghba-on everyone’s favorite oriental to do list of 2014-15-not much could be heard or said about Lattafa perfumes except for a few Raghba flanker offerings that the truly faithful truly followed after the popularity finally peaked.
The flankers were Raghba Wood Intense, released somewhere in the middle of Raghba’s reign in 2014. Raghba Wood Intense was good with a bevy of hard oudh and cedar notes but the intensity did not live up to the billing of the original Raghba. Then there was Raghba for men which I found hard to resemble Raghba at all even though it did smell like a cross between Arabian Oud’s Kalemat and Creed’s Green Irish tweed with shallow green cambodian oudh like notes. Raghba Classic found a niche audience who somehow discovered that they had a love for politically correct oudh which Gulf perfume houses have perfected by literally engineering the smell to another level which Lattafa is still famous for. Raghba classic was a success with its heavy reliance on Benzoin, Vanilla and Ambergris. The Ambergris is really something special in Raghba Classic. Finally, there was Raghba Muski, in the spirit of Raghba but much more toned down with soft white florals, sugar, lemon and clear musks, however this was something to continue the Raghba commercial wave which came to a halt in the fall of 2015.[...]
You are the Fougere they forgot. All throughout 2015 and parts of 2016 they totally forgot about you.
They forgot about you while other perfumes prospered.
They for forgot about you while everyone celebrated the arrival of Laurent Mazzone’s Cicatrices and Malefic Tatoo.
They forgot about you when Diptyque’s ‘Oud Palao’ hit the scene or when Andy Tauer blessed us with Incense Flash and continued the onslaught into 2016 with Lonesome Rider.
While the Oudh Olympiad continued with Perris Monte Carlo’s ‘Imperial Oudh, Supreme Oudh by Polo and Zafeer Oud Vanille by Alexandre J, Fougere Nobile slipped right by us without a whiff into the land of obscurity.[...]