Before I commence, you will have to muster the courage to S-P-R-I-N-T and not run to the nearest fragrance outlet and procure this latest hit fragrance from the never disappointing Tauerville line. For this latest Tauergville adventure it almost seems like the Andy challenges us to summon our inner rogue with some really beautiful but tough ingredients with a certain twist that only Taueville can implement with the result being total success. Patch Flash takes a different route than the current ‘outlaw-rebel’ perfume with a leading summertime blockbuster movie actor. Patch flash is rich with splendid waves of patchouli and bad ass ancillaries that it seems like the face of the this perfume should be Johnny Cash. Patch Flash is tough, witty and uncompromising like the legendary American Blues-Country-Rock-Folk-Soul music icon Johnny Cash. This fragrance is more like the unabashed Johnny Cash playing live to convicts at Fulsom Prison in California on January 13, 1968. Cash performed hits like ‘Cocaine Blues’ , ‘Send a picture of mother’, ‘Flushed from the Bathroom of your Heart’ and even one of his most unabashed songs; ‘Dirty Old Egg suckin Dog’. His performance at Folsom prison would go down as one of the greatest live performances in American history leading to 5X platinum sales to this date! with just an acoustic guitar at times Cash beaugarded his way into the hearts and minds of millions and quite possibly has reincarnated in Patch Flash, just possibly. Was Andy Tauer maybe Johnny Cash in a past life…maybe so. Lets find out.
Driftwood is an impeccable presentation of wood finally meeting the beach and its myriad of comforting and uplifting scents. Minus makes an attempt to position in our sporadic collective minds a lone but rogue piece of driftwood-with its hollow and neutral mature woody scent-washing upon the shores of a beach, lake, lagoon or however you choose your likeliness. Please do know that driftwood has your expectations covered and quite nicely.
The Wood and sea theme has quite possibly run its course with so many fragrances to choose from and maybe less than a handful that really smell like what they are supposed to represent. However, Driftwood is impressive to say the most. It is thrice soothing with an interesting take on sandalwood and cedar that leaves the impression of smoky oud and the soothing scent of freshly lit match. But thats the only the beginning in Driftwood.
The most intriguing and eclectic cup of coffee so far in 2017 is award winning Dawn Spencer Horowitz’ dark and serene potion Café Noir which is an oriental coffee gourmand with highlighted with earthy-spicyness and balsamic laden tones. Just so one dare not be disappointed, Cafe Noir is akin to a fresh and potent cup of Seattle’s Best Coffee. Specifically, the Signature Blend No. 5 a smooth dark roasted blend that is pleasantly smoky and delightfully intense. For comparisons to the typical latte’s of the world and Starbuck’s one should look elsewhere fast, Cafe Noir is uniquely different. Besides the coffee, the ancillaries are equally impressive as you are instantly greeted with a powerful whiff of tolu balsam, pimento berry and labdanum. This is coffee on a different level that is sure to impress perfume devotees of this popular drink as I have not yet smelled anything as wonderful as this.
The unfettered creativity of the estemeed Maison Garbriella Chieffo is truly a phenomena to experience. I can recall the first time I viewed one of her perfumes on a Facebook newsfeed and was drawn in by the beauty of her flacons, a very simplistic but elegant glass rectangular shape followed by what appears to be a granite stone like top. They were so striking in appearance it reminded me of modern Minimalist or Urban interior design. Instantly, by viewing the bottles the rush to procure a sample of her collection concluded with a purchase of her marvelous but intriguing sea scent titled; Acquasala. The theme of Acquasala was to present the mood and the intimate connection of the sea that we all are so familiar and in tune with. To this day, I still declare Acquasala as an all time classic sea scent. I have sniffed a multitude of seafaring scents past and present loaded with a bevy of bergamot, ozonic notes, aldehydes and ambergris but Acquasala is uniquely positioned as its own animal so to speak. It is worth examining.
Finally, this mysterious, dark and bewitching perfume tailored in the anxieties brought upon us by nocturnal lore, legend and myth arrives on the shores of North America to alllow my input after an exclusive debut at Harrods of London. L’insomnuit was released at Harrod’s in July of 2016 so unless you were of the privileged few perfume cognoscenti that resided in London to hoard this fabulous fragrance-or shall I say gorgeous-the insomnia theme really hits home in a subtle but distinct way. While L’insomnuit really attempts to exude the ‘Witching Hour’ or the macabre with their marketing L’insomnuit results in a very romantic experience. It is a soothing and romantic late evening fragrance despite the two main-stern-notes of Iris and wood to produce a sort of self imposed antagonism. You can detect a reasonable amount of ‘dark’ and ‘red’ fruits and possibly a hint of citrus that brings about this wonderful fermented scent that is tempered with milk and honey and that is only just the beginning. Robert Piguet, known for assembling masterpieces with pristine ingredients and blistering detail conjures a special brew for all of our delight.
Finally, after many moons of manic-like due diligence I have arrived at the alter of J.F. Schwarzlose perfumes of Berlin to marvel in-as well as review-this interesting collection of perfumes that feel like a symphony. What first caught my attention about this brand was the packaging and presentation by showcasing a glamorous perfume bottle with dramatic effects in one of it’s ad campaigns, specifically for their Rausch perfume.
In the ad they show a meteoric glowing bottle with a glitzy gold cap consumed by similar glowing fumes that were shaped in the form of naked male and female anatomy. To be succinct the image suggested unrelenting hedonism and playful debauchery matching exactly the theme of the composition: Raush, which translates into english as ‘Rush’. From a just a partial whiff of this bewitching brew one can almost immediately comprehend the meaning. Rausch resulted in exceeding expectations like their latest offerings such as Altruist and the popular Leder 6 receiving much warranted attention as Altruist is in consideration for the 2017 Art and Olfaction awards.
Turkish Leather by Pryn Perfum is a really quite an interesting find. It has all of the typical nuances one would expect to encounter with the litany of leather scents, some good-some bad. They tend to have that comforting rugged and rough feel that is serenely bathed in elegance, except that in this present scenario Turkish Leather takes a welcomed but interesting turn. You can describe this turn as a ‘Cultural’ experience. In creating this perfume some traditional Turkish delights -by way of a sweet spicy beverage and dessert-are infused that defines this special brew for it tastes supremely good.
Well, my dearest fragrance aficionados it appears as if it is that time year again-for me anyways-where I customarily select an intoxicating ‘Leather scent to peddle in 600 words or less. Last year around this time I believe it was Cuiron by Hemut Lang which I introduced to you. I remember very well. It was the reformulation of the ‘Original’ Cuiron, which I still have not come across yet despite my efforts, that led to serious agitation and vile rebuttal which appeared like death threats when you read some of the reviews for the new Cuiron which I appropriately coined 2.0. Although change was inevitable, 2.0 is still holding the expectations I set…it still smells better than ever. With Some modern and some vintage 2.0 is still really cosmopolitan.
It appears as if Sven Pritzkoleit -SP Parfums-has established himself firmly in the 2017 niche perfumes market with an exciting as well as bewitching array of unique and exquisite perfumes containing some interesting note combinations along with experimentation that should pique the curiosity of the most selective and prude perfume aficionados-and for good reason. Already, SP Parfums has 15 fragrances to its roster with each one having it’s own unique challenge to the wearer due to the boldness, wanton creativity and imminent potency of all their creations. SP Perfums are indeed quite different and strong as hades but if left with one impression after sampling they smell like something that you have never tried before. In fact, SP Parfums can be considered uncharted territory at least because that is the way I see it. For example, some of his perfumes which could be considered too strong to wear have honest dosages of the animalic. Whether it is Civet, Castoreum, or Pyrrrolidin-which is currently defined as an sperm note-or combinations of each, SP Parfums does not shy away in utilizing said ingredients. The reality is they dial up the animalic and the result is a success.
The title alone drew my interest in this very surprising perfume from Wiernerblut which is based squarely in Vienna, Austria. The audacity of releasing a perfume named after the renown Sigmund Freud, the father of psychoanalysis and listed among Western Society’s greatest influential thinkers, with accolades proceeding into the wee hours of the morning, because freud was really that monumental.
Wienerblut is a term that describes hedonism mixed with archness or which characterized a certain crowd of the Viennese around the 1870’s according to the their website. Knowing the reputation of Freud, it seems fitting that Wienerblut would create such a modern day ‘Freudian’ elixir extending the boundaries of pleasure and slyness even further in 2017 with a really impressive ‘Freudiental’ (Freud-Oriental) perfume. The mood in creating this was strategic and definitely playful. Pleasure and slyness was also considered as Freudian Wood is loaded with notes of esteemed pleasure like Milk, Mimosa, and Ambergris while teasing us with sly woody notes, resins and spices. It is mildly overt but loaded with olfactive expectations considering the union of intriguing notes and the many blessings it brings. It’s focus according to Wienerblut is …” A milky fragrance that captures the intimate skin feeling with animalic and laconic notes around a woody core”. In Freud’s view, Wood stands for sexual desire and the female bosom which holds reference to the ‘feeling’ of Freudian Wood considering lust and anatomy in today’s popular culture.
C’i’aan and Aka’ula make quite an impressive debut to the ‘Fragosphere’ in 2017. As exotic and enigmatic as these two fragrances may seem at first glance they will exceed your expectations for daring to dabble into the unknown. Housed in two black mysterious flacons with titles in what appears to be Arial-print and lowercase lettering C’i’aan and Aka’ula is most likely to pique the curiosity of even the most elite fragrance cognoscenti. That’s because at face value C’i’aan and Aka’ula demand attention. C’i’aan and Aka’ula intercepted mine after a brief bout with procrastination! Upon smelling C’i’aan which is pronounced like you would say -‘Key-on’- I was left in full blown bliss. Wow, I thought. The notes in this are almost to surreal but I will save the details for the next paragraph. After being mesmerized for 15 minutes or so-or maybe longer-I received the same exact euphoria for Aka’ula. While C’i’aan was ethereal, Aka’ula was fruity and smoky with light gourmand notes. I could not put a finger on the scent right way but after sampling for 2 hours I had a general idea of what one would expect from Aka’uala and it is great news.
If you like your Artisan perfumes to live on the sacred ‘Olfactory edge’, one should look no further than the House of LA CURIE Artesian perfumes. At present, I have had the opportunity by sheer luck to sample two extraordinary almost mind-altering perfumes by this Indie house (maybe they are new or maybe not) from their current offering of five and the impression I was left with was just unbridled amazement. If you really ‘appreciate’ Artisanal you than you have arrived at the correct place and I strongly suggest following up after reading this review because I did after writing it. What is really mind-altering about the perfumes I dabbled in is the clear and present potency in place of clear and present danger.
Three Cheers for Baruti’s Dama Koupa, Bravo I say three times. When I first saw the notes for Dama Koupa I was immediately intrigued or better yet the main note which is a Macaroon. I absolutely adore macaroons. My first experience with Macaroons came from a general cultural mislabeling as a ‘cookie’ which left me unimpressed as well as uninterested until the day I tried Macaroons with the assistance of some very good brandy my friend introduced to me who hails from Scotland. So, finally evolving as an ‘aesthetically correct-culturally correct’ citizen of the world it no longer defined as a cookie but a lighter than air masterful French confection with remnants of coconut, vanilla etc… you know the rest and what have you. So, returning to the subject of Macaroons, it is a perfume note in Dama Koupa. Actually, it is the featured note which makes this all that much more interesting.
Peau de Pierre is quite an interesting find for the perfume cognoscenti in 2016. In fact, it is an inquisitive find. With exactly two more weeks until we finally approach 2017 and smack dab in the middle of the holiday season, Peau de Pierre could not have arrived at a better time. stealthily slated as a woody-earthy-smoky creation with miniscule ingredients Stark took the meandering path in place of the well traveled mundane to instill a strict policy of brutal non-disclosure with the only available information as ‘Woody’ and ……’synthetic’ notes? There is a famous American adage that I find a little trite, unimaginative as well as boring ( I will however stick to the famous epigrammatic wit of Oscar Wilde) “Curiosity killed the cat”, but in defense of Peau de Pierre Starck Perfumes ‘Birthed’ this cat. I happened to stumble upon Peau de Pierre by sheer accident, literally. It was the peculiar design on the face of the bottle that piques the most interest since founder Phillipe Starck is already renown for his sleek design prowess so Peau de Pierre makes perfect sense.
The House of Abdul Karim Faransi also known as the Maison de Parfum executes a stellar performance with its wide and extensive range of beautifully moving perfume oil fragrances that I must tip my hat, bow and salute such a magnificent effort from an The house of Abdul Karim Karim Al Faransi-who is also known as the Frenchman: Al Faransi-has over 40 fragrances ranging from select musks, piercing ambers, humid florals, oudh and various blends and/or Mukhallats and is adding more fragrances daily as you read this review. They are consistently creative while remaining prolific. No two fragrances smell exactly the same as Al Faransi has this uncanny ability to transform musk, amber, oudh and florals into completely different masterpieces on demand. The perfumes heavily favor the Oriental-Arabian genre with the typical line up of ambers and oudh but Al Faransi really goes full Oriental by including creations inspired by the far east and even Southeast asia. Take for example Mukhallat Bushi Sensei which translates as ‘Blend of the Warrior Master, it is a delightful and heart warming mix of Black Tea, Japan flowers, Bonsai shrub and Cambodian agarwood with a quite mystifying sweetness from Al Faransi brilliantly using papaya and aloe vera. I have never sampled anything remotely close to Mukhallat Bushi Sensei yet you have never smelled good until you encountered Bushi Sensei. Then there is Singapore, another Al Faransi tribute to the orient-but only now its Southeast Asia- which is a complex and eclectic composition featuring notes of fir, agarwood, bamboo, wild trees, fresh cut grass notes and a touch of jasmine. Like Mukhallat Bushi Sensei, the scent of Singapore is a first. It is semi sweet from the jasmine but is earthy and is definitely humid! Singapore reminds you of the salivating cooked smell of oatmeal combined with the soft-earthy vegetal musks while remaining overtly impressive. Singapore is one of my many favorites from Al Faransi.