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Ines has 27 articles published.

Terry de Gunzburg – Parti Pris – Soft Tuberose – Great for the Non-Fanatics

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Parti PrisNow this perfume house sneaked up on me without prior notice. One of my perfume orders from Essenza Nobile included a sample called ‘Bleu Paradis’ by  Terry de Gunzburg. I had never heard of it, tried it and – started my new order… This post though is not about ‘Bleu Paradis’ (I might have to write something about that fragrance shortly as well), but it got me interested in other Terry de Gunzburg fragrances.

Terry is a make-up artist and used to be creative director of Yves Saint Laurent before she started her own successful cosmetics line in 1998. Her perfumes are created with the help of perfumers from Robertet, Grasse. KEEP ON READING

The Scent of Metal – Silver and Gold – Saskia Diez

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gold_silverHow could something smell if it had a smell at all?

Perfumers have been trying to create their take on scentless objects for a while. These days you can get perfume which lets you smell like a certain university, your own DNA and now silver and gold.

Saskia Diez is an independent jeweler from Germany who decided in 2013 to give a scent to gold and silver. The fragrances were developed together with well know nose Geza Schoen (known from his work for Escentric Molecules, Ormonde Jayne, FCUK). KEEP ON READING

Von Eusersdorff – Classic Vetiver – Highly Recommended

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new Every now and then I find myself reaching for a vetiver fragrance. I don’t use them a lot, but I love the fresh/bitter leafy mix on certain days. I don’t really like the very harsh, super green varieties so testing is a ‘must’. I have had 3 on my list lately: Mazzolari ‘Vetiver’, Annick Goutal `Les Colognes – Vétiver` and Von Eusersdorff `Classic Vetiver` and I have to announce, that – for me – Von Eusersdorff `Classic Vetiver`comes out as the winner by several lengths.

It is different, softer with added Bergamot, Lemon, Peppercorn, Geranium, Cedarwood and Patchouli. I very much smell the Geranium, probably because I like it a lot. The overall effect is just gorgeous. Classy, soft and very wearable. KEEP ON READING

Coudray – Vanille et Coco

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vanilla_et_cocoI can’t even remember what I was thinking when I ordered this (no trying in advance, this was a true blind buy). Whatever it was, by the time I received my bottle, I was very hesitant. I am not usually a big fan of the often strong and very artificial scent of coconut which accompanies so many suncare products. Add some sweet vanilla to the sweet coconut and I could not AT ALL remember what on earth I had been thinking when ordering this fragrance.

In general, I shouldn’t really need to mention that you do have to like vanilla and coconut given the name of the fragrance, but I have to admit – this scent is so well done that yes – even I rather like it. It’s a fine line with both, vanilla and coconut; a bit too much and it’s sweet, sickly and artificial, but Coudray simply nailed it. It’s a definite coconut and vanilla, but they are deliciously sweet in great balance with the other ingredients which are mango, jasmine and ylang-ylang. I can’t distinguish those individually, but they add to the ’roundness’ of the fragrance. The whole impression is sweet and exotic. I probably wouldn’t wear ‘Vanille et Coco’ during a heat wave, but on a balmy summer evening or during the cooler months – very nice. KEEP ON READING

Wonderfully Green – Bergamotto Mediterraneo by Mazzolari

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Bergamotto MediterraneoFounded in 1888, this prestigious perfume house is now in its third generation. With Mazzolari, you will get tradition, quality and class. You will also get packing that is just wonderful. Nothing flighty or fancy, this just whispers ‘class’ at you. Covered in what feels soft like velvet, you open the box like a book and the bottle just rests there. I usually just throw boxes out, but Mazzolari boxes, I will keep.

To try out Bergamotto Mediterraneo, I have definitely chosen the wrong time of the year. We have the middle of winter here, not a time when I would voluntarily choose a fresh green fragrance, but nonetheless – I really like Bergamotto. KEEP ON READING

Bellodgia going mainstream = Più Bellodgia

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Più BellodgiaCarnation? Where is the carnation?

There will always be loads of people who associate the scent of carnations with an old fashioned, granny smell. Maybe because it is not a fragrance that comes up in a lot of modern, hip perfumes.

I can live with that. I adore everything carnation and I have cherished Bellodgia for a long time. This now, the Più Bellodgia, is the re-vamped version – the modern take on the classic from 1927.

The ingredients sound similar, there is carnation, rose, jasmine and some lily of the valley, with cloves and woods to follow on – yet it starts and stays a lot fresher, lighter and much more generic in my opinion. It’s a fresh flowery/woody mix missing a lot of the wonderful spicy sweetness which is basically the heart of the ‘old’ Bellodgia. Più Bellodgia is not a bad fragrance over all – but for something with ‘Bellodgia’ in the name I would have expected something more. It might be a different experience for someone who hasn’t met the classic Bellodgia beforehand, but I have to say: If you like carnation, I suggest to try the ‘real’ Bellodgia. KEEP ON READING

Bond No.9 – New York Patchouli

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New York PatchouliI love Patchouli – full stop. I try to get my hands on as many Patchouli centered fragrances  as I can – to train my nose and to find the best one for me (any suggestions, please leave a comment).

I have been looking to try one of the Bond No. 9 fragrances for a while, so none better than the ‘New York Patchouli’ to start with.

First of all – I have decided to change my fragrance testing routine from now on. It will be the test strip first, before the back of my hand.  Talk about staying power or longevity, NYP has got to be the bench mark. Some rubbed off onto the sleeve of my jumper and the next day transferred from the sleeve back to the back of my hand and there it was, all over again. KEEP ON READING

Florentiner – by Wiener Blut

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FlorentinerThe perfume label Wiener Blut was established by Alexander Lauber in 2009. Four fragrances (Florentiner, Indisch Leder, Volkamaria and Panasch) were presented at the end of March 2012. Based on original recipes from 19th century Vienna, the fragrances were developed in collaboration with the Parisian perfumer Pierre-Constantin Gueros (other fragrances by this perfumer are Kristiansand, Nooka, Couture 1 and 6 for Bill Blass).

‘Florentiner’ is classed as fresh, green, fruity and woody, and is not unpleasant at all. It’s a rather classic fresh woody fragrance which probably goes down well as a men’s cologne. For me, it’s a bit too herbaceous and soapy and unfortunately, it stays like that all the way (no warm dry down here). It has decent longevity and I wouldn’t mind smelling it on a man, but it’s not for me. On the other hand, I have a bottle of ‘Indisch Leder’ by Wiener Blut and I really like it – so, if you find ‘Florentiner’ is not for you either, try ‘Indisch Leder’ instead. KEEP ON READING

Sulphur – Part of the olfactory Periodic Table

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Sulphur, nu_beWhat do you expect from a fragrance called ‘Sulphur’? Certainly not a flowery aroma or a mouthwatering gourmand bouquet. The description on the nu_be website says”a fragrance evoking hellish potions” – that’s more like it.

I can smell moss, resins, roots and the official description states: “Notes revealing the bowels of the earth…” – well, you get the picture.

This one is definitely unusual and a bit weird and that’s what I like about it. It would be a good idea to test first, and maybe you will find yourself going back to it again and again like I did. KEEP ON READING

Orange Star – Andy Tauer – Just Delicious

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Orange StarI have been ignoring ‘Orange Star’ for quite a while now. I always disliked orange or neroli in a fragrance, they are just too sweet for me. Neroli oil is produced from the blossoms of the bitter orange tree, but instead of bitter, it’s very sweet and heady.

Well – all that has changed now. Andy Tauer’s ninth fragrance ‘Orange Star’ (released 2010) hits just the spot. It starts with fresh citrus (mandarin), continues with lemon grass and orange flower before a wonderfully warm ambergris and tonka bean base sets in. To me it smells like delicious orange and incense and it lasts forever. Just perfect for the middle of winter (which we have here at the moment), but also great if you want a lighter, daytime incense perfume. KEEP ON READING

Frapin 1697 – A Must Have

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Frapin - 1697I knew that my first niche fragrance review had to be about Frapin – 1697.

I had not heard about Frapin or 1697 before I received a sample one day (thank you Essenza Nobile). Trying it for the first time was amazing. I seriously could not put the test strip down. You know this wonderful moment when the instant decision has been made that you have to have’this one’. Not even a chance for the rational side to get arguments in (like ‘see whether it is smelling similar to something else’, ‘check out the price first’, ‘not due for another fragrance’…) – nothing would have counted anyway.
1697 is a lovely warm, well rounded full bodied fragrance which combines wonderful notes of rose, ylang-ylang, jasmine as well as woods, fruits and Frapin’s famous cognac note. To me, it is very special and not like anything else I have smelled before. Just listing the ingredients is not going to prepare you for this scent. This one has to be tried. KEEP ON READING

How it all started…(for me)

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OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

This was my first ever fine fragrance, a long time ago. Released 1980 by Juvena, a Swiss cosmetics company, Sarabe is not technically a niche perfume, but since it has been discontinued a while ago, it is rare and hard to find.

It’s a lovely, full blast oriental fragrance which mellows down after about an hour to a soft mix of cinnamon, patchouli and amber. It does remind of the big sisters Opium and Cinnabar, but with a softer, not as easily recognizable twist.

As far as I know, it has never been re-formulated so if you can find a bottle, it is the original. For me, it was the start of an ever growing collection… KEEP ON READING

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