Niche Fragrance Magazine



Ines has 27 articles published.

Korres – Iris, Lily of the Valley, Cotton

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OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAOut of Athens’ first ever homeopathic pharmacy, Lena and George Korres set up a homeopathic-remedy production lab. They started ‘Korres Natural Products’ which also includes a line of natural fragrances.

‘Iris, Lily of the Valley, Cotton’ was launched in 2010. It’s the perfect fragrance when you can’t really wear a fragrance or don’t want to smell of perfume. It starts with a lovely soft iris, luckily (for me) some not too strong lily of the valley and then continues with the cotton note. KEEP ON READING

Comme des Garçons – Series 2: Red – Harissa

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This one has been around for a while, it was launched in 2001. Based on the  famous fiery Moroccan spice of the same name, Harissa starts off with a spicy tomato note, but you are not going to smell like your favorite salsa. I find the tomato accent not really that pronounced. It’s more the fruity (blood orange) aspect that comes across to my nose. It is warm and spicy yet fruity without being overly sweet.

Much more of a complex mix than a lot of the light fruit basket fragrances that seem to had the fragrance market covered at some stage. I personally very much like the orange/pepper heart note that does last sufficiently long on my skin before the heavier spice base notes set in (cardamom, nutmeg). I can still smell the fresh leaf/fruit note even that far into the fragrance, whereas those usually disappear fairly quickly. KEEP ON READING

Mancera – Gold Intensive Aoud

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Mancera--Gold-Intensive-Aoud--EdPI had a wonderful companion this Boxing Day. It was going to be a so-called “warm summer’s day” for Perth, 32 degrees, so no reason yet to pull out the heat-wave fragrances. I decided to use my new bottle of Gold Intensive Aoud by Mancera.

I cannot say much to compare GIA to all the other oud fragrances on the market – my nose is too un-trained for that. What I can say though is that it’s a wonderful fragrance. The combination with fresh lemon and rose notes keeps the heavy wood part from being too dark and heavy. There is no sharpness or abrupt change between the lighter and heavier notes, this is a very well balanced perfume. KEEP ON READING

Kinski Fragrances – Kinski

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KinskiIn commemoration of Klaus Kinski and as a tribute for the 20th anniversary of his death, Kinski Productions enlisted well known perfumer, Geza Schön in 2011, to create a perfume inspired by the life and persona of Klaus Kinski,

Not an easy feat as Kinski was a rather controversial German actor, known for his unconventional and emotionally extreme behaviour. Just as he polarized people’s opinion, so does the fragrance named after him.

Opinions range from “one of the most amazing unique scents” to “smell like a week old puddle of beaver urine” (I rather like that one) (opinions borrowed from ‘fragrantica’). KEEP ON READING

Micallef – Watch – Time for Love

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Watch - Time for LoveThis one is for the girls – no doubt about it. I am usually more the classic, uncluttered type, but ‘Watch’ is so wonderfully feminine, with slightly over the top packing (the bottle is embellished with Swarovski crystals and a little watch), I just couldn’t help myself (that’s my bottle in the photo).

The fragrance itself is a big fruity floral, exotic and sweet. It starts with plum, peach and tangerine before the heavy florals arrive: ylang ylang, jasmine, neroli and tuberose. Later, vanilla, ambergris and musk appear and complete the tropical experience. It’s a delicious, sweet experience without being sticky. KEEP ON READING

Treffpunkt 8 Uhr – J.F. Schwarzlose Berlin

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Treffpunkt 8 UhrBerlin – a city with enormous history. From being all the way up there to crashing down completely to working itself all the way up again. A city that used to be devided and completely surrounded by another country. Berlin is special, eccentric and colourful and the same is promised about J.F. Schwarzlose’s fragrances (“eccentric, extravagant and as iridescent as Berlin”).

‘Treffpunkt 8 Uhr’ is an interpretation of a Schwarzlose classic (unfortunately, I couldn’t find out which one), starting with mango and ginger before adding sage as the heart note and vetiver as the base. While this doesn’t sound very exiting, the fragrance is quite lovely. I wouldn’t call it unusual or eccentric, but it’s a nice fresh mix with a lovely vetiver dry down and good longevity. Perfect for the office, but too light and close to the skin for much more. The company describes their fragrances as “confident, cosmopolitan, contemporary and racy” but even though I agree with contemporary, confident and racy ‘Treffpunkt’ is not. KEEP ON READING

nu_be – 1H – Hydrogen

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HydrogenAs part of the periodic table, hydrogen is the lightest of all elements and also the most abundant substance in the universe. Hydrogen is highly flammable and explosive. The destruction of the Hindenburg airship is a prime example of that.

As part of the olfactory periodic table, Hydrogen is – amazing. It is light, super bright, sparkling and vibrant. A perfect good mood fragrance. Starting with an explosion of Mandarine, Melon, Lemon and Aldehydes, to continue with a heart note of jasmine and basil and a lasting base of vanilla, oakmoss and other woods. KEEP ON READING

“…all my soul within me burning..” Nevermore – by Frapin

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Nevermore - Picture ©Roberto Greco
Image: ©Roberto Greco

“With such name as `Nevermore'”, what did you expect? Nothing light, flowery, uplifting, delicate, gourmand or fruity I hope. You were right.

The fragrance starts with pepper, nutmeg and aldehydes – a bit sharp which gives way to the big rose heart. Three roses have been used (Rose Oxid, Rosa Centifolia, Rose Damascena), but they come in heavy and dark with the arrival of saffron, cedar and amber wood.

Taking the mood of Edgar Allen Poe’s poem ‘The Raven’, there is no bright, light note in this fragrance. It does a wonderful job lending a scent to desperation, lost love and Gothic atmosphere. KEEP ON READING

Another lovely fragrance by Terry de Gunzburg – Reve Opulent

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Reve OpulentTerry is just getting it right as far as I am concerned. Similar to Claire in a previous post, I can say about myself: I do not like gardenia fragrances. Most of the time, they are too heavy and sweet – certainly not for me.

Now Terry’s “Reve Opulent” might be a gardenia at heart, but it’s not the knock-you-off-your-feet variety. It starts with some fruit (plum, peach) continues with the gardenia, rose and jasmine trio and finally the base of vanilla and musk. This is a bright, sunny fragrance with no dark notes anywhere. Like other Terry fragrances, it’s a well blended mix which I find very suitable for all daytime activities. KEEP ON READING

Anat Fritz – Tzor’a

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TzoraAnat Fritz is a German designer of knitted hats and other female accessories. She states on her website, that she likes to use traditional and folkloristic elements from her Hungarian-Romanian-Jewish family background in her designs. In 2006, Anat launched her first self titled fragrance to follow up with Tzor’a in 2012.

Tzor’a was created by Geza Schön, whom I already mentioned in my post about Saskia Diez’ fragrances ‘Silver’ and ‘Gold’. The name Tzor’a stems from an ancient area of land in the vicinity of Jerusalem. The fragrance itself starts with orange, clary sage, bergamot and peruvian pepper. I personally cannot smell too much orange and it’s certainly not sweet orange, that’s for sure. I smell a lot of pepper, bergamot and clary sage – very herbaceous and green. KEEP ON READING

Palimsest – by Mandy Aftel

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Well, well – I just received the cutest little package and that completely unexpected. So lovely put together.

Included were samples of Mandy Aftel’s latest fragrances. Mandy creates her fragrances in Berkeley, California. On her website, she states that she “personally attend(s) to every detail of the process in creating every product” and that she “love(s) adding a sense of luxury and well-being to people’s lives”.

Mandy uses only natural essences to create her fragrances, definitely a new experience for me. KEEP ON READING

Al-Kimiya – Layla

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Al-Kimiya-LaylaThis fragrance is beautiful. For me, this one has got the lot: Warm spicy amber with cloves, nutmeg and cedar. It has a gourmand note, but not too strong or too sweet due to the added spicyness. It is a unique fragrance which is strong to start with (no citrus or fresh flowers anywhere) and then mellows beautifully with some added ylang-ylang, musk, ambergris and patchouli.

This one is definitely not for the heat wave or the gym, but otherwise I would wear this to any outing as it is a very well made perfume. Perfect for a big occasion and to leave quite an impression, but all in class. KEEP ON READING

Caron – La Sélection – Lady Caron

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I bought my bottle of ‘Lady Caron’, because I liked the story behind the fragrance. It goes like that:

Ernest Daltroff, founder of the house of Caron, fled from Third Reich Nazi Germany and arrived as an immigrant in New York. He saw the Statue of Liberty and decided then to show his gratitude to the country that gave him freedom by dedicating a perfume to it.

Unfortunately, he did not have the time to keep his promise, but when Patrick Alès took over Caron in the late 1990s and read Ernest Daltroff’s memoirs, he decided to make his dream reality: Lady Caron was born! (Info: Essenza Nobile). KEEP ON READING

Boadicea The Victorious – Energizer

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Energizer__18746.1405405439.300.400Boadicea The Victorious is a British luxury fragrance brand. Created by British artisans, the perfume collection is meant to celebrates ancient courage and power. It is “a unisex brand that is a fusion of tradition, heritage and timeless classic luxury, with an edgy, modern twist” (from the website).

My first ‘test object’ from the BTV line is called ‘Energizer‘. Definitely a fitting name as this fragrance starts with a blast of citrus (lime, pink grapefruit, bergamot), continues with Petitgrain before leading over to a base of vetiver and musk. KEEP ON READING

Frapin – Paradis Perdu

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vineyard3‘Paradis Perdu’ is not just a little bit green or quite green – this one is VERY green or should I say wonderfully green. No booze or smoke – not the usual Frapin fare at all (and I don’t mean that negatively – I love Frapin fragrances). I will try and describe ‘Paradis Perdu’ but you really have to try it yourself.

It is not a tangy, biting citrus-y fresh green, more a leafy, full bodied green which incorporates resin and root notes. It reminds me of the outdoor smell after a long awaited rain, but with plenty of greenery around. KEEP ON READING

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