Niche Fragrance Magazine

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Claire Vukcevic - page 9

Claire Vukcevic has 127 articles published.

My name is Claire, I'm a 39-year old mother of two, and I am a freelance writer and consultant. I love perfume, any perfume, practically all of 'em. Other interests such as writing, reading, and painting fall tragically behind the perfume. It's a hobby that tends to be all-consuming (of both my time and my money).

Black Saffron: Fruit Leather with Volume Control Problems

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Black Saffron by Byredo

Black Saffron is not what I expected at all. In fact, when my nose was hit with a burst of fruit syrup notes, I had to check the box that my sample came in twice. Yep – the words “black” and “saffron” were definitely there. But before I even had a chance to reach up to scratch my head in puzzlement, the scent did a crazy volte face. What I smelled was….. wood shavings in a heated, covered horse-riding arena. How odd! This eventually settled into a fine dusting of sawdust that coated the main accord of the scent – fruity violet leather – giving the entire fragrance an unusual kind of musky, ashy “mouthfeel”. Although I assume the dustiness is due to the saffron, I was unable to detect any of that spice’s usual medicinal aspects. In fact, despite the presence of both saffron and juniper berries, I was unable to pick up much spiciness at all. Here, they seem to manifest themselves more as a textural component (ash, dust) than as a flavoring agent. KEEP ON READING

Bahiana – A Fruity Floral With Brains

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Bahiana Maitre Parfumeur Gantier

Bahiana by Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier is an absolute delight from beginning to end. Part of the delight comes from surprise – this is the rare tropical fruity floral that manages to side step all of the “flip-flops and pina colada” associations that usually go along with the genre. It opens on the most realistic note of freshly peeled mandarins that I have ever smelled. It is so good that I blinked in astonishment and then spent the next few hours spritzing it on again to play this part of the show back again. KEEP ON READING

Review of Blackbird, by House of Matriarch

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Blackbird

It’s not often that a perfume knocks me off my feet so completely. This one just did.

Composed by Christi Meshell for her House of Matriarch line of perfumes, Blackbird is made up of over 300 different notes and materials, 93% of which are all-natural. It is offered in extrait strength only, with 33% concentration of perfume essences.

The main notes are leather, oud, resins, and woods. But that’s just the tip of the iceberg of what your nose actually gets. This is incredibly complex, even crowded perfume – but somehow it still manages to achieve the effect of a smooth, even flow of notes, like water across a silk panel. KEEP ON READING

Alternatives to Summer Colognes

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Confession: I don’t like summer colognes.

I have a few problems with them. First, most summer colognes are a bit boring. I know that this won’t be a popular opinion, especially in Southern Europe, where 95% of us walk around smelling like lemons for three months of the year, but it’s true. Part of the problem is that the cologne genre doesn’t seem as ripe for innovation as other genres, following as they do a tried and true formula of citrus, herbs, and woods that has been around since 1704. It’s kind of like being five minutes into the latest Jennifer Anniston romantic comedy – it’s nice and all, but you can totally tell where it’s headed. KEEP ON READING

(Re) Discovering Chanel No. 5

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Chanel No. 5

I come at No. 5 unhindered by any associations with female family members or acquaintances wearing it – nobody I know is that classy. I had been testing the EDP for years now, just a random spritz here and there when I was in a perfume store, just to make sure it was as deeply repellent as I had remembered it. The EDP never disappointed, in that regard. 

But recently, I was on my way back home from a holiday and realized I had forgotten to pack my precious little decant of Bois des Iles for the plane ride home. I am an extremely anxious flyer and have found that the calming scent of sandalwood is practically the only thing standing between me sitting quietly in my seat with clenched buttocks, a silent moan of terror trapped in my throat, and running down the aisles butt naked screaming “We’re all going to f*^$#&ÎNG DIE!!!!”. It is safe to say that I was mildly disconcerted to find that I had no sandalwood on my person. As was my husband. Anyway, in desperation, I looked at the bottle of No. 5 EDT on the duty free shelf, figured there had to be some good sandalwood in the base, and so spritzed it on liberally. It worked. The EDT has a rather short performance trajectory, so I was well into a glorious sandalwood dry-down by the time I was boarding, maybe 90 minutes later. It is true that I may have bruised my husband’s forearm during take-off, but at least there was no screaming and naked antics from me, for which we are all truly grateful.

The slight similarity to Bois des Iles in the far dry-down had me intrigued. Was it possible, I wondered, that I could get my ruinously expensive sandalwood fix through plain old No. 5, which is, compared to BdI extremely easy to find and not as hard on the wallet? I conducted a little investigation. I bought a small bottle of 1940s/50s pure parfum from a Basenotes member, as well as a small purse spray of the EDT (current version). Here are my thoughts:

The Good: The vintage pure parfum is simply exquisite. It is a smooth, round thing of beauty. They say that Chanel has secured the harvest rights to all the best jasmine and roses in Grasse for generations, and you can tell. I would not be surprised if they have St. Peter under contract to collect the tears of angels in heaven for this too. The florals are deeply abstract, super-blended, and buttery in the way only Chanel can pull off. I can’t identify a single one of the flowers used here – it’s like they picked some flowers, dipped them into liquid gold, waited for them to dry, then broke them up into little pieces and put them back together all mismatched, like a sort of Picasso’s Desmoiselles d’Avignon, with the the bottom part of the jasmine welded to the top of a rose. It is all very fuzzy and abstract. Later on, I detect something pleasingly animalic in the dry down, as well as that soothing sandalwood.

The Bad: The extreme abstraction comes close to feeling synthetic at times, and there is this weird plasticky netting cast over the florals, as if the golden, fluid smoothness has been pushed to the brink. In the parfum, this plasticky feel manifests itself as a semi-pleasing sort of nuttiness, like unsweetened almond essence. It is an odd effect, like I said, half-pleasing but half-unsettling and synthetic, and I am not sure that it belongs. I perceive this plasticky, almond thing in the parfum to a small but noticeable extent in the pure parfum, but not at all in the EDT, leading me to think the effect is due to taking the abstract richness a step too far. 

The Ugly: The EDP takes this plasticky effect to the florals and pushes it to the limit of my tolerance. Actually, the EDP smells like burning plastic for much of its development on me, and it is quite unpleasant. It is joined by a synthetic note from the laundry or household detergents aisle in the supermarket. 

I enjoy the EDT a great deal, perhaps the best out of all the versions. But it is surprisingly light and last for only three hours on my skin. What I have taken to doing is dabbing the pure parfum on pulse points, and then spritzing the EDT all over my body, so that I get both concentration and volume. Then I am surrounded by a lovely fug of golden scent all day long. 

I have to add two important things, though. First of all, putting on No. 5 is a conscious act of melding with the madding crowd – there is nothing to tell you apart from the legions of women who put it on just because either their mothers did before them, or just to wear something famous. There is nothing about it that says “Hey! I am wearing No. 5 because I choose to, based on the notes!” You will just smell like everyone else (well, of a certain age). For those of us who like to express some aspect of their individuality through choice of perfume, putting on No. 5 feels like you are willing accepting to be an anonymous face in the crowd. It is so recognizable and such a cultural shorthand for luxury, class, and “poshness” that it has, I find, a depressing sort of flattening effect on your own individuality. And you can’t bend No, 5 to your own personality either – forget about it. You can try to wear it defiantly with shorts and flip-flops, but your smell will still say “I am a posh woman, slumming it today. I have my pearls and twin-set waiting for me at home”. 

Lastly, I discovered that although No.5 is an acceptable short term alternative to Bois des Iles for a plane ride home, it really cannot replace Bois des Iles in the long run. Note to self: Just buy Bois des Iles and be done with it. KEEP ON READING

Perfumes as Proustian Madeleines

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Horse Race

Horse Race

Even if you’ve never read Proust’s famously weighty “Remembrance of Things Past”, you will have heard about the famous scene with the madeleine. Never read it? Eh. This is not one of those cultural gaps I’d be rushing to fill if I were you. I suffered through the first volume (IN FRENCH) when I was fifteen and it was a temps perdu indeed. But anyway, here’s what you need to know.

Proust is sitting there, minding his own business, when he absentmindedly sips a teaspoon of lime blossom tea, into which he has crumbled a bit of his afternoon teacake – a madeleine. Suddenly, the flavor and scent of it hurtles Proust back through the corridors of time to when he was a child, going up to bid his aunt good morning, with her lime blossom tea scenting the air. It was a long time ago, and Proust is an old man now. KEEP ON READING

Perfumes in Short Supply: Loving the Rare, the Discontinued, and the Gone Forever

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What do you do when you fall in love with a perfume that is discontinued or otherwise unavailable to you (for reasons of cost or limited supply)? Do you spend huge amounts of time and money tracking it down on eBay? Do you beg friends to bring you back exclusive bottles from Tokyo, Paris, and London? Or do you just…..let it go?

I am working very hard at being one of those people who just accepts it and moves on. But damn, it’s hard.

Personally, the way I react to a perfume I love being in short supply depends on the reason behind its unavailability. As far as I can see, there are three main reasons. KEEP ON READING

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