The name of the new Italian niche perfumery house Masque Milano born last year started to spread fast, their scents : Terralba, Monte Cristo, Tango, Luci ed Ombre creating emotions in the perfume aficionados world. Their latest launch is Russian Tea.
The concept behind this brand is the mask (masque) used in theater to create characters, the perfume being perceived as a mask under which somebody can hide and disguise : “ Perfumes to wear like a second skin….the perfume behind a mask”. KEEP ON READING
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Atelier Cologne is one of the perfume houses that during last years gave to fragrance community some interesting and quit different interpretation of various ingredients like: vanilla, amber, orange/citrus notes, vetiver , oud. When it was iris time Silver Iris came out bottled in silver and I was wondering how cold this iris will be knowing well about the coldness of iris from Serge Luten’s Iris Silver Mist.
Taking into consideration the name and the bottle my expectations were around a cold and abstract representation of iris. Instead you will discover right from the beginning a delicious sweet fruity fragrance with a very slight powdery candied violet tone reminding me about make-up. Not too much coldness, at least not as much as I expected , the tangerine and blackcurrant being responsible of bringing sunshine to the austere iris. KEEP ON READING
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When I ‘m curios about a perfume I’m doing a kind of research looking for the message but also wondering about the notes and composition. Usually I start trying to find out which is the message that marketing people put behind the scent and then wondering about the key not of the incriminated fragrance
So, here we start : let s take Penhaligon s Iris Prima . According to Penhaligon I discovered that Iris Prima is “The Spirit of the Ballet. Bottled” and we can find out easily who’s the Prima Ballerina – the Iris:
“Iris Prima, the new scent from British fragrance house Penhaligon’s, is a work of olfactory choreography, with Iris Absolute in the role of Prima Ballerina. Effortlessly elegant and faintly melancholy, Iris Prima offers a fascinating glimpse into the secluded yet magical world of the ballet.”
My mind went quickly imagining a delicate powdery iris with some classic accents very much in line with Penhaligon’s hallmark and having no expectations to be surprised by this fragrance.
Now being mentally prepared and knowing more or less about what should I expect before trying the perfume I did the reality check and put Iris Prima on my skin. During the first fifteen minutes I was living in a delicate fresh powdery floral cloud surrounded by pink silky ballet pointe shoes, tones of silk ribbons and pink tutus with a lot of powder floating around. A definitely feminine fragrance with a fresh iris among other flower . I was then expecting for a solo from the iris as it was announced but SURPRISE !
The fresh Iris young ballerinas floating in powder were suddenly replaced by an unexpected and surprising scent of leather. A very well mannered leather with almost nothing animalic in it, actually is all about suede. In spite of the fact that oud is not mentioned in the composition I smell a very soft trail of oud which enters on the stage in the same time with the leather but vanishing quickly.
This pleasant slightly musky suede smell is growing bigger and bigger leaving behind the feminine flowery pink tutu territory and leaning more and more to masculine territory but never really reaching it . Still some powdery trails are telling that Iris is still there but not for long time. Supporting leather vetiver enters into the stage bringing much more emphasis and giving Iris Prima a unisex identity much more than feminine. Both of them suede and vetiver are soft and well balanced, all their harshness was turned down by an excellent director – Alberto Morillas with a touch of vanilla. The final stage has complexity given by the presence of sandalwood , bezoin and the soft vanilla.
After this performance of leather as Prima Ballerina in spite of the fact that we were told that Iris will perform I can easy say about Iris Prima that is a soft floral leather fragrance classic and classy in the same time.
If your are looking for a leather fragrance or the leather/suede note is a new territory for you to discover just give a chance to Iris Prima. KEEP ON READING