Niche Fragrance Magazine

Author

Alexandra Petrilla

Alexandra Petrilla has 18 articles published.

My name is Alexandra , I’m a pharmacist working as a consultant in pharma and healthcare living in Romania. I’ve been always fascinated by the world of scents , perfume and horses being my hobbies . I m interested in the perception of the perfume and in discovering the emotions perfume is triggering , focusing less about the notes of a perfume . My fragrance reviews are based on my perception being an subjective olfactory experience so, please always sample yourself.

Mini Reviews on New Perfumes (3)

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Testing some of the new launches in the Niche Perfume Land that becomes larger each day I’m sharing with you my first thoughts about them

Another Oud Juliet Has a Gun

The latest release of Juliet Has a Gun ironically named as a statement tries a lot to be a different oud but it doesn’t. My curiosity to test it was raised while reading the notes – raspberry with oud and by the fact that I really enjoyed their first oud scent – Midnight Oud.

How is it? I get in the beginning a huge synthetic mutant raspberry that smells like strawberries with oud notes. This is not a soft oud perfume but a harsh oud one probably due to the large quantity of aromachemicals and I think that is one of the sweetest oud fragrances that I tested up to now. The entire composition is not so complex and remains linear with some a little bit animalic musk in the base note. KEEP ON READING

Nin – Shar – a 3 D Rose Fragrance

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Part of the Jul et Mad recently launched collection “Les White “ Nin-Shar is supposed to capture the splendor of Babylon’s Hanging Gardens using a very popular accord – rose/oud, that these days is a crowd pleaser. It can’t go wrong with this accord, it’s on the safe side but in the same time there is nothing spectacular, nothing new I thought while reading about it on Jul et Mad website. I had the chance to try first from Les White the wonderful Garuda which is by far my favorite. KEEP ON READING

Walking in Tauerville – Vanilla Flash

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Vanilla Flash is part of Andy Tauer’s second collection Tauerville which unfortunately is available only for US and Switzerland. I put a lot of effort to reach these scents, asking friends of a friend of a friend and so on who were travelling to US and finally succeeded to get my hands on Vanilla Flash .

My curiosity was raised at a very high level – vanilla one of the most used perfume note our days when there is an explosion everywhere of perfumes more or less gourmand featuring vanilla, from Sephora’s shelves to niche perfumery. I can easily confess that I was not expecting a simplified scent, that kind of single note perfume from Andy’s side, but a complex one in the way his doing scents. Before trying it I remembered what Andy says about this scent: “My vanilla. It is all in there that I love. Spices, roses, patchouli… and vanilla.” Definitely it will not be that vanilla centered perfume for sure I said to myself and then apply it on the skin. KEEP ON READING

Let’s Go to the Beach!

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It’s hot outside, summer is here with all the features: sunshine and high temperatures making everybody wanting something to feel cooler even for a few minutes. This is the perfect time for daydreaming about vacation , I’m counting the days until I’ll reach the beach and dip in the sea.

From the perspective of a perfume lover I will not stop today at summer fresh, citrus fragrances neither at the aquatic, sea breeze perfumes like Aria di Mare or Acqua di Sale but I would like to share with you my favorite scents reminding me the beach. All these beachy scents with their big flowers like gardenia, tuberose, tiare or ylang , hints of coconut and juicy fruits have in common the suntan lotion vibe, bringing instantly the smell of vacation. They are sweet, some of them even gourmand, having usually in the base notes amber or vanilla with musk as a memento of  the suntanned skin, saturated of course with bronzing lotions and creams. KEEP ON READING

Mini Guide for the Land of Tuberose Perfumes

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Soon in this part of world the tuberose will bloom again and while waiting for this narcotic moment the idea of writing about some interesting tuberose perfumes came to my mind.Among the floral notes tuberose is the most contradicting, being made out of green floral freshness and carnal opulence, of daylight radiance and darkness of the deep night when it blooms and haunts perfumery for more than four decades

.During all these years tuberose note have passionate fans and detractors, you either love or hate this smell, there is no middle way. Those hating this scent frequently complain about that feeling that you have smelling for the first time a tuberose perfume: it’s like a big fist hitting your face, a smell that appears sickly and cloying for them but, in the meantime, a tuberose fan smelling the same perfume will be on cloud number nine and will describe its intensity , sensuality and creaminess. There are not so many notes in perfumery that have a reference scent like tuberose has. All tuberose perfumes are compared with Fracas, golden standard of this note, a beautiful composition but for me wearing it means “Mission Impossible”.I’ll try to refer more to tuberose centered releases from the last decade that are more or less close to the standard in no particular order in this mini guide for tuberose perfumes. KEEP ON READING

My Best “Soft Oud” Perfumes

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As we all know in the last couple of years oudh/oud also known as agarwood has started to be almost ubiquitous in Perfumeland. Everybody, either designer, mainstream or niche brand, carry at least one oud note centered perfume in their lines. Agarwood is now everywhere and for all the pockets. Oud theme, orchestrated more or less with the synthetic stuff dominates the “Men’s World” mainly.Even names like Serge Lutens or Frederic Malle that previously took distance from this trend finally couldn’t resist and change their minds approaching oud. KEEP ON READING

Playing “Hide & Seek” – WHITE Puredistance

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The main idea behind the creation of Puredistance WHITE Perfume has been to create a perfume so beautiful and positive that it gives the wearer an instant flow of happiness.” This is the message in WHITE, the latest entry. For me Puredistance is guilty for the best leather/chypre perfume M and for the aristocratic Antonia, the rest of their creation did not succeeded to bring too much emotion to me.

WHITE is different right from the beginning from the rest of Puredistance perfumes by simplicity in the way it was built, it does not have the rich structure of Antonia, M or Puredistance I . It s simple but in a very sophisticated way, being an example of “less is more” in perfumery. I can easily say that WHITE is one of the most elegant summer fragrances. It starts on my skin in the first minutes with a clean scent of white musk surrounded by crispy cool bergamot /citrus and a hint of patchouli , then in short time , this composition turns fruity having a lemon sorbetto & limoncello note while the white musk disappears (for some time ). At this moment the rose signals it’s presence joining the sorbetto & limoncello note enhancing the fruitiness of the composition. This phase of WHITE reminds me a little bit of MFK’s Acqua Universalis Forte. KEEP ON READING

La vie en….Violet Jacket – I Miss Violet

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It looks that these days the shy violet is back in niche perfumery. Since last year there were several launches of violet centered fragrances some pairing in the classical way violet with roses like in French Kiss from Guerlain , Epine mortelle from LM Parfums or Chanel’s Misia , others trying new companions like oud in: Silk Mood from MFK and Aoud Violet from Mancera or leather, also “en vogue”, like in the new launch of The Different Company I miss Violet .

I miss Violet is part of the TDC’s Excessive Collection and “evokes attachment and contemporary incarnation of a secret love “ being a floral leather fragrance created by Bertrand Duchafour. My curiosity was raised enough to give it a try, I like violets in perfumes and love leather fragrances. KEEP ON READING

Sniffing Some of the Latest Hard to Get Guerlains: Le plus beau jour de ma vie, Royal Extract, Black Swan

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I do not know the reason why but lately the Perfume Fairies decided that it’s high time for me to get my hands on some samples of hard to get Guerlain perfumes that were recently released.

Le plus beau jour de ma vie

It s supposed to be a wedding perfume and all expectations are around white color, emotion, happiness and flowers. It really fulfills my expectation from the color perspective, almost everything in this perfume is white: orange blossom, white candied almonds, white chocolate, white musk. KEEP ON READING

Mini Reviews on New Perfumes (II) : Cologne Indelebile, Gran Ballo, Oud Satin Mood

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Cologne Indelebile Parfums Frederic Malle

It looks like this summer neroli, orange blossom and eau de cologne are “en vogue”.

After JhaG’ s Gentlewoman Frederic Malle is releasing their interpretation of cologne mastered by the brilliant Dominic Ropion, the oldest fragrance representation, popular since beginning of XVIII century.

So, what can be done to “refresh” a cologne type of fragrance ? Was it as good as I expected taking into consideration Ropion’s implication?

First of all Cologne Indelebile is a kind of cologne that we all smelled before. A fresh smelling cologne that starts with a soapy typical note, heavy on orange blossom, not very impressive and a little bit disappointing for me, I have to admit that I m not a cologne fan. KEEP ON READING

Short Reviews of New Launches (I)

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Having the chance to test some of the latest arrivals in the Perfume Land I was tempted to write short reviews about our first encounter. Here are my first thoughts and I m pretty sure that for some of the perfumes tested probably a deeper relationship will develop between us in the future.

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Laudano Nero or Black Cashmere

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Fireplace

Talking about amber perfumes wintertime is the best time of the year for taking them out into the cold world. At the end of November when winter starts to show its teeth I’m bringing out of hibernation my big dark ambers: Tom Ford’s discontinued Amber Absolute, Opus VI from Amouage and Ambra Mediterranea of Profumi del Forte. I love them all but, in my opinion, they are all still missing some sweetness that can bring softness to these beasts so I’m in a permanent quest for that big dark and sweet amber, my cashmere amber. KEEP ON READING

Tsarina : a Travel with Unexpected Destination

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After reading the Tsarina description from Ormonde Jayne website I clearly had in my mind that this is a big oriental perfume:

“Tsarina captures opulence and passion. It demands fur, leather, brocade, heavy silks in sweeping dresses and fabulous jewels to go with her haughty heritage .To call it a floral oriental is to misunderstand its rich complexity, it is more baroque. The perfume is profund, blending leather notes, rich Madagascan vanilla, amber and orris butter. This is a powerhouse perfume, ravishing and regal, distinctive and synonymous with the glamorous world of luxe”. This fragrance is part of the collection “Four Corners of the Earth” together with Qi, Montabaco and Nawab of Oudh. KEEP ON READING

Take a Ride with “Army of Lovers”

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I have to confess that I enjoy musky animalic perfumes and among my favorites in this stable are Musc Khoublai Khan and Marc-Antoine Corticchiato’s showjumper Musc Tonkin.

This preference probably comes from my other hobby which is as addictive as cocaine but much more expensive, one of the equestrian disciplines – dressage. Coming back to perfumeworld I was always in quest of a perfume capturing the smell, the real smell of riding a horse: sweet musky floral/ indolic scent with leather accent. KEEP ON READING

Rausch or About Creating Addiction

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My first encounter with Rausch was almost one year ago and honestly, after several trials I’m still much intrigued. If somebody will ask me right in this moment to define Rausch it will be a difficult exercise but what I can easily say that it’s an intoxicating fragrance.

Veronique Nyberg together with the guys from J.F. Schwarzlose Berlin really succeeded in creating this effect. In a very good way!

So, what are the consequences of direct exposure to Rausch? This smoky dark ambery creature with some vanilla/oud traces in its veins which trigger a long term addiction and, as far as I know, no antidote to Rausch exposure was created up to this moment. KEEP ON READING

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