Finally, after many moons of manic-like due diligence I have arrived at the alter of J.F. Schwarzlose perfumes of Berlin to marvel in-as well as review-this interesting collection of perfumes that feel like a symphony. What first caught my attention about this brand was the packaging and presentation by showcasing a glamorous perfume bottle with dramatic effects in one of it’s ad campaigns, specifically for their Rausch perfume.
In the ad they show a meteoric glowing bottle with a glitzy gold cap consumed by similar glowing fumes that were shaped in the form of naked male and female anatomy. To be succinct the image suggested unrelenting hedonism and playful debauchery matching exactly the theme of the composition: Raush, which translates into english as ‘Rush’. From a just a partial whiff of this bewitching brew one can almost immediately comprehend the meaning. Rausch resulted in exceeding expectations like their latest offerings such as Altruistand the popular Leder 6 receiving much warranted attention as Altruist is in consideration for the 2017 Art and Olfaction awards.
While Altruist and Leder 6 are making their rounds for notoriety I thought I would provide a treat for all of the future converts of J.F. Schwarzlose by selecting and reviewing some other gems on there roster which amount to four iconic perfumes with incredible craftsmanship, interesting molecules, sharp contrasts and the most impeccable natural sourced ingredients teamed with synthetics-when needed-to make this quartet complete. Now lets explore further:
Rausch– is literally an immediate ‘Rush’ of the perfect woody notes coasting on ancillaries to bring an explicit perfume. To make matters intriguing Raush uses an interesting oudh note. It is austere but delightful in that it fluctuates between smoked wood on an open fire and toasted bread. Then a sweet but earthly vanilla bean is added with what seems like a more bittersweet amber. It is just lovely how the vanilla bean and amber play on top of the wood. The Cypriol and pachouli elicits a balsamic and dry suede feel to mesh with the former. This adds another dimension to Raush as if the first was not enough. Last some red pepper is utilized to present that lustful feeling, for it spices things up. The scent is deep and has layers of depth as you will discover. It provides tension as it moves from smoky and toasty to earthy, spicy, vanillic and lustful. Later, a smooth leather drift comes in over a bitter caramelized sweet smell. I can’t say enough about how ‘rushy’ Rausch really feels.
Zeitgeist – Embrace the ‘Oceanic’ in this one. Zeitgeist captures the true essence of how a fresh coastal smell filled with sand, floating wood, foamy water and green notes like seaweed and algae. Yes, you can really smell algae/seaweed in this one, Hallelujah! How J.F. Schwarzlose came up with this concept is pretty impressive but it is the resident perfumer; Veronique Nyberg’s uncanny ability to bring the ‘Coastal’ into fruition. The ingredients are of superior grade as I am guessing the combination of peru balsam, amber and algae interprets the deep coastal green notes. Leatherwood is used to make the floating wood environment complete. To ensure the fresh foamy water smell some Musk molecules are employed and thats when this becomes interesting. The musk tones are light along with the opaque-avant grade sweetness. All becomes well at this juncture. Zeistgeist is constructed with masterful perfection accounting for an exemplary sea scent.
Treffpunkt 8 UHR – An arid and spicy invention. Immediately, Treffpunkt shows its brilliance taking the way of the culinary arts. It chops up some fresh warm ginger and sprinkles it on a bed of fresh juicy mango that is typically found in the carribean. The tart but sweet taste of juicy dripping mango matches gingers extremely warm side setting the excitement for the ‘Rendezvous at 8’oclock’ also known as Treffpunkt 8 UHR. Vetiver is present and to my surprise it is dry, pleasant and harvest sweet! These blades of grass provide a deft smooth and arid touch while the clary sage sits atop of the fragrance cooling everything. I gather the intention was to make it smell exactly how it is at 8’clock in the evening even if there are no rendezvous planned. Mission accomplished as the skin accord captures the early smell of the evening. This is such an erotic composition with very suggestive notes that it reveals all of the pleasantries for this specific time of day. As this dries down you receive a nice helping of the vetiver and spicy skin scent. I can only say wow again for this perfume.
IA-33 – A heady and diffusive fragrance using the intense and heady allure of Jasmine sambac, creamy magnolia, iris and a smidgen of pepper to make this bloom on your skin. What a great arrangement this is while considering the pristine quality of ingredients. To make this combo work they have to be great. IA-33 is so heavenly at this point that they include some mandarin, cedar, lime tree blossoms and a river accord which smells like rain dropping on the river. This is yet another perfume that captures the environment J.F.S. seeks to exploit. A very uplifting warm and moist floral perfume that elicits that feeling of spring in the mid morning with flowers blooming and the smell of the river as the proverbial backdrop. As mandarin and pepper works it way through this fragrance you may arrive at hints of neroli. However, this is the added bonus of the exceptional floral note combinations and superb ingredients.