Fragrance Daily

Niche Fragrance Reviews By True Aficionados

Fragrance Daily - Niche Perfume Reviews

  2016 has been a bad year for celebrity deaths and an even worse one for celebrity presidential elections, so I’ve found myself craving and wearing mostly woody, resinous perfumes that perform like one long howling basenote, working my tired neck muscles like a Russian massage therapist. This year, no roses, no leathers, and no ambers – just a long…

Tom Ford’s Oud Wood, Acqua di Parma’s Colonia Oud, Creed’s Royal Oud—each of these are great examples of fragrances that seek to make oud pleasing to the masses, with very little (if any) oud. Standing in stark contrast to those tame beauties, Al Kimiya’s Hayat is an example of what can be crafted when a talented perfumer attempts to make an actual oud palatable. Upon…

Gérald Ghislain’s Histoires de Parfums—self-described as an olfactive library telling stories about famous characters, raw materials and mythical years—has sought inspiration from a fascinating array of disparate literary personages ranging from Casanova and the Marquis de Sade to George Sand and Ernest Hemmingway.   Squarely in the middle of this is my favorite offering from this range, 1828, which celebrates the year…

It’s clear that we will soon find ourselves in the midst of another wave of popularity for the Beauty and the Beast fairy tale, thanks to an impending Disney film whose trailer was viewed a record-breaking 127.6 million times in the first 24 hours after its release several days ago. But as we all know, the greatest perfumers have been playing beauty against beastliness for a long time.

  Vento ne Vento by Bois 1920 is one of the most satisfying fragrances I’ve worn in a while. Like Dior’s Mitzah, Tom Ford’s Amber Absolute, the recent Contre Bombarde 32, and Bois 1920’s own Real Patchouly, Vento nel Vento blurs the lines between amber, incense, spices, and woods, making it rather difficult to pin down. Which is exactly what…

Although buying vintage bottles can be a perilous exercise, vintage perfumes are my comfort zone. I wear many beautiful current perfumes and I always like to explore new releases, but once you develop a taste for certain now restricted ingredients found in vintage perfumes such as eugenol, nitromusks, civet, and oakmoss, newer perfumes will always smell different to you. Some will be just as good as your beloved vintages, but they will always have a different character.

For me, the Clive Christian brand is a mark of quality. Given my experience with Clive Christian fragrances, including and especially the regal 1872 Men, I was excited to receive a sample of the new Rock Rose scent. The opening of Rock Rose is distinctly citric, with a bergamot that nearly comes across as astringent as lime. Combined with the other…

  I’ve absolutely fallen in love with Rundholz 03.Apr.1968, which I guess shouldn’t surprise me since I also fell hard for al02 by biehl parfumkunstwerke, by the same perfumer, Arturetto Landi. This is obviously a perfumer who likes to balance out bitter resins with mulled wine and stewed fruits. I bet he is the kind of man who would never…

  Au Coeur du Desert by Tauer Perfumes is the extrait version of L’Air du Desert Marocain. But certain nuances have been dialed up and some down, so that while it is recognizable as a twin to the original, it is definitely a fraternal rather than identical twin. Those who love L’Air will love Au Coeur too; but maybe those who…

  Convinced that I was in desperate need of a ‘signature scent cologne’, something that I could grab at a moment’s notice when professional responsibilities required that I enter other person’s ‘scent circles’, I decided that rather than make a choice in the way I normally would – visit my local supplier and be overwhelmed by the typical perfume prose…

It’s the final moments before the band appears on stage. I’m right at the front and I can feel the tension in the air as the crowd pulsates restlessly behind me. We’ve all been waiting too long and now it feels like something is about to happen. I taste metal in my mouth. The air crackles with the peppery smell…

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